Logosol big mill basic

[bookerdog]

I just tried out my new logo big mill. Works great with the guide rail. And you can rotate the log with the setup still on the log. The guide rail gives great cut. I will get some pics up with this unit as soon as daughter gets back with my camera. She's has it in Ca. this weekend at the batbusters softball tour.

 

[woodshop]

Can't wait to see... been trying to get pics from Logosol guys here for a while.

 

[bookerdog]

big mill

Can't wait to see... been trying to get pics from Logosol guys here for a while.

Hey woodshop Now what I have is just the big mill basic. The guide rail and leveling system attaches right to the log. Very protable. Your can also take the system and build a permanet stand mill. but I need it to be portable. System only weights about 20 pounds all together with one nine foot rail. I will buy another rail once I get more familar with it.

 

[Rodney Sinclair]

BookerDog, this is what I use to quarter with. I do use the sled off the M7 though so I can use the crank. The first thing you will learn is you need better screws than what Logosol sent you in the kit. I use the ones with nut type heads. The ones they send strip wery easy.
Also, they got a 1.5 and a 3.5 foot rail you might want to think about.
Woodshop, maybe the Logosol people are busy making lumber instead of pic. Hee Hee. Just joking you.

Rodney

 

[bookerdog]

screws

BookerDog, this is what I use to quarter with. I do use the sled off the M7 though so I can use the crank. The first thing you will learn is you need better screws than what Logosol sent you in the kit. I use the ones with nut type heads. The ones they send strip wery easy.
Also, they got a 1.5 and a 3.5 foot rail you might want to think about.
Woodshop, maybe the Logosol people are busy making lumber instead of pic. Hee Hee. Just joking you.

Rodney

That is the first thing I got were lag screws. I read how bad the screws were on the logosol site. I sled is just so much better then my alaskan. The saw just gluides on the sled.

 

[woodshop]

Woodshop, maybe the Logosol people are busy making lumber instead of pic. Hee Hee. Just joking you.
Rodney

Hey there Rodney... actually... for what it's worth, including today, I've milled almost 1,500 bd ft of mostly 5/4 and 6/4 in just the last three weekends. Speaking of pics... when are we going to see some milling pics from you logosol guys?????

 

[bookerdog]

board feet

Hey there Rodney... actually... for what it's worth, including today, I've milled almost 1,500 bd ft of mostly 5/4 and 6/4 in just the last three weekends. Speaking of pics... when are we going to see some milling pics from you logosol guys?????

Okay woodshop how do you figuare board ft. Are you going by a 1x12by1foot is one board ft. I did some doug fir today 15 boards 7/4 or 1 3/4 by 18 by8ft 6inch so what I come up with is about 335 board ft sound about right?

 

[woodshop]

Okay woodshop how do you figuare board ft. Are you going by a 1x12by1foot is one board ft. I did some doug fir today 15 boards 7/4 or 1 3/4 by 18 by8ft 6inch so what I come up with is about 335 board ft sound about right?

You got it... 15 x 1.75 x 18 x 102 = 48195 cubic inches. Divide that by 144 (1x12x12) and you get almost 335 bd ft. However, as was mentioned in other posts, telling somebody you milled 500 bd ft is not enough if you wanna brag about it in a post. If you had milled those 15 boards 4/4 instead of 7/4 it would have taken you the same amount of time, but instead of 335 bd ft, you would only have milled 191 bd ft. Heck if you milled those same 15 boards into 3 inch planks, you would have milled 574 bd ft, same amount of time. Not to brag opcorn: but thats why I mentioned that the 1500 bd ft I milled was mostly 5/4 and 6/4.

Just keep in mind that technically though, bd ft lumber calculations by the NHLA (National Hardwood Lumber Association) which is how sawmills and retail lumber is supposed to be sold, are close to that, but a bit more complicated, involving rounding rules etc. Dig around their website, http://www.natlhardwood.org/ and you might find those rules. The majority of us just use the easy way, figure how many cubic inches in the board and divide by 144. Do a google search on "calculating board feet" and you'll get a ton of info.

 

[bookerdog]

retail lumber

So a 2x6x12 at home depo is suppose to be 12 board ft. When your really getting a 1.5x5.5x11.5 Which equals about 8 board ft. I never have thought about that to much. I wonder if you ordered special hardwood from other countries if they still sell in true dimisoins.

 

[woodshop]

So a 2x6x12 at home depo is suppose to be 12 board ft. When your really getting a 1.5x5.5x11.5 Which equals about 8 board ft.

no... construction lumber, 2x stuff is different rules. Simplified explanation... you're buying the board based on what it was rough lumber before it was dimensioned in a mill. Comparing that to hardwood lumber is apples and oranges.

 

[billstuewe]

I am relatively new to this site and have a Logosol M7. Their forum is down so have been nosing around here. I recently purchased the big Alaskan mill from Madsens and did not like pushing it so I added a crank system like Logosol using a small pully on the far end of this 16' x 40" bur oak. It worked very well. I noticed a little up and down movement on the far end so I attached an old hydraulic jack that weighted about the same as the saw--it just hooks and un-hooks--I do not carry the mill with it attached. I like the AK mill for the wide stuff because the bar is held at both ends. The first cuts on this log were done with the Logosol Big Mill before I bought the Ak mill--the 2 last pictures. The cantalever support allowed some dip in the bar that the AK prevents and the AK was much easier to set up.
Bill

 

[BobL]

I am relatively new to this site and have a Logosol M7. Their forum is down so have been nosing around here. I recently purchased the big Alaskan mill from Madsens and did not like pushing it so I added a crank system like Logosol using a small pully on the far end of this 16' x 40" bur oak. It worked very well. I noticed a little up and down movement on the far end so I attached an old hydraulic jack that weighted about the same as the saw--it just hooks and un-hooks--I do not carry the mill with it attached. I like the AK mill for the wide stuff because the bar is held at both ends. The first cuts on this log were done with the Logosol Big Mill before I bought the Ak mill--the 2 last pictures. The cantalever support allowed some dip in the bar that the AK prevents and the AK was much easier to set up.
Bill

It looks like a good start Bill

I'm not sure if it's just the photo but it looks like you still have a sagging problem in the middle of your long bar on the Logosol. The same happens on an Ak and there are ways around this - have a look here. Maybe you can adapt these ideas for the Logosol.

BTW if your chain is sharp and has the right cutter profiles and you place the log on a slope you should not have to push the mill very hard or at all. If every thing is set up just right the mill it should go down the slope under its own weight.

If your mill is going up and down at any stage and needs a weight to hold it down that is possibly a sign that the bar is not parallel along its width to the mill. This might also explain why you are having to push. It might only be out of parallel by a 1/16" and that will cause this problem.

 

[billstuewe]

Thanks, I like the magnet idea. It wasn't that the saw was hard to push--I am spoiled by the Logosol and like the crank. The line is nylon and stretches a bit and keeps a nice pressure in the cut and the left hand on the trigger is easy to steer with, especially on an irregular log. I will include a pic of my favorite mill----How do I post so that the picture is part of this message box?
(I know of no way to prevent the sag on the long bars with the logosol--if you pick up the middle the tip rises too. That is why I bought the AK)
Bill

 

[BobL]

----How do I post so that the picture is part of this message box?

Upload your images as per usual and then park your cursor in the message box where you want an image to be. Then click on the paperclip icon in the menu buttons above the message box and a drop down menu will appear. Select the image from this menu

 

[lmbeachy]

Bill, as deep as that sawdust is getting around your mill it looks like it is about time to get an old snow blower out and blow that dust away. lmbeachy