Lumber dimension

[trax]

I'm going to start sawing out a cabin, I will be using hemlock cut from the lot and air drying it. I would like to cut my 2x6's so they would be the same width (after drying) as KD dimensional lumber to avoid problems with window and door framing. Has anyone done this or know what width they should be cut. Also is there any reason not to cut them full 2" x 5 &???

 

[Gearhead1]

Trying to match rough cut lumber dimensions to that of SFS commercially milled is not easy. You're going to want to allow probably 1/8" for shrinkage, assuming the logs are green when sawed. Also the type of mill (circular, porta-band, chainsaw) will be a large factor to allowances and accuracy. I recommend that you just cut all your lumber to a uniform size, either 2" x 4" or 1 3/4" by 3 3/4", and trim the window and door casings to match when installing them. The main concern I have with cutting rough stock to 1 5/8" x 3 5/8" is with how much strength the material will have left--Remember that commercial studs are cut thicker and then surface planed, the planing in effect removing irregularites and not primarily altering strength.

 

[woodshop]

Something else to think about when making lumber is whether you think you will be using braces, hangers etc designed for standard 2x lumber somewhere in your design. If so, then making them off standard will present some hassle. Not insurmountable, the lumber can be trimmed etc to fit, but something to think about.

I agree that type of wood, and type of mill determine how much bigger to mill the stuff so you get uniform lumber after drying and running through planer/edger etc. Lots of variables there. Example, I can often get away with milling rough 1 inch oak and cherry and after drying and S2S, still getting standard 3/4 lumber. Could not do that with species like birch or apple or even soft maple, have to make them 1 1/8 to get 3/4 finished lumber.

 

[carvinmark]

Something else to think about when making lumber is whether you think you will be using braces, hangers etc designed for standard 2x lumber somewhere in your design. If so, then making them off standard will present some hassle. Not insurmountable, the lumber can be trimmed etc to fit, but something to think about.

I agree that type of wood, and type of mill determine how much bigger to mill the stuff so you get uniform lumber after drying and running through planer/edger etc. Lots of variables there. Example, I can often get away with milling rough 1 inch oak and cherry and after drying and S2S, still getting standard 3/4 lumber. Could not do that with species like birch or apple or even soft maple, have to make them 1 1/8 to get 3/4 finished lumber.

I agree all the way.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

This is an age old problem, and the only way to do it is, like was said. Saw everything out oversize now, and trim it after it dries...

If you saw "everything" out for your cabin, trim and all, it will be a lot less of a problem, and that's pretty much how i handle it here off my mill.

Rob

My sawmill pictures: http://albums.photo.epson.com/j/AlbumList?u=4378744