Milling 40" Oak

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lumberjackchef

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One of my friends has an LT-40 Woodmizer and mills arouind 70k brdft/year. He asked me if I would be willing to help him slab some large logs that he has aquired from some land that will soon be mined and reclaimed. All of the standing timber on this property will be dozed in a couple of weeks! These are some pics of my first real slabbing experience with my modified, duel ported 066 and my friends 48" granberg attatchment. I just bought a partner p100 off ebay the other day that runs for $72. After I modify it I hope to be able to reduce my cutting time a bit. Although I was surprised to see how well the 066 did. Anybody out there use a p100 for milling , modified or not? Anyway, here are the results from the first log.

Yield : 9 - 40" x 2 1/4" x 8.5' slabs
Average time per cut was 10-12 minutes.
Fuel consumption was 2/3 of a tank per cut.

We were going to try and cut them longer but the log was hollow at the top.

Next one is a 40+" red elm. I will post some more pics as we continue with this project.

Love to hear some feedback. Thanks
 
Dumb question but how did you get the 066 to stand like that with that big bar? You have your work cut out for you, ha ha. Looks nice. That wood looks real strong. You should paint the ends so not to get cracking. ( I should paint my ends more too). Could you back up next time and get that loader in the pic? Thanks. Look forward to more.
 
lumberjack thanks for the pics. I always want to know if you have any specific plans for those huge planks. Rustic furniture? Resaw into thinner stock later? Not sure yet so cut them long and thick to be on safe side? I once milled 30 inch wide cherry with an MS460, and that was pushin' it. I suppose milling 40 inch with an 066 is same thing, works but not real well, and kinda hard on the saw. Keep us informed on your $72 P100.
 
lumberjackchef said:
The bar in the first picture is only a 36" bar. The 48" bar is on the mill.
What I meant was; when I lay my saw down it tips to top of the bar. Yours saw is sitting on the base of the saw. Why is'nt it tipping forward. I know it's a dumb question. Is the bar resting on something that I can't see in the pic? Or is your 066 really heavy.
 
Adrpk said:
What I meant was; when I lay my saw down it tips to top of the bar. Yours saw is sitting on the base of the saw. Why is'nt it tipping forward. I know it's a dumb question. Is the bar resting on something that I can't see in the pic? Or is your 066 really heavy.

It is an older style 066 with an aluminum flywheel. Is yours a newer model with the polymer flywheel? Not that the flywheel would make the difference but that a newer model may be slightly lighter weight. But there are no smoke and mirrors to the o66 standing up. It has very big dawgs on it that keep it at a steep angle. That could have a little to do with it not tipping forward as well.
 
And for your ? Woodshop, I think that my freind plans to air dry for while and then try to finish them in his dH Kiln. We are going to split some of the bounty from this project and as for my part I will air dry my slabs and probably
quartersaw some of the other stuff that is left over. He doesn't want to mess with it. I am in the process of retrofitting my solar greenhouse into a solar kiln. I will then use this method to dry the 1" stuff. I will build some furniture out of most of mine, but this will be the first time I will actually have large slabs to work with. Most of the things that I have made in the past are from smaller slabs. You guys like pics so heres a couple of my projects.....

..and yes I did the woodburning too. Hope you like em!
 
Yep, nice stuff.

IMO, you should rethink drying your pine slabs by air or solar alone. You could have problems with pitch oozing from the wood even through finishes for years. Air or solar drying to get the MC down is fine but you need high temperatures to set the pitch. I believe it's something like 160 degrees for 24 hours but I can't remember exactly. I local smaller kiln opperation should be able to help you for pennies per BF.

My $.02.
 
I have heard bad things about kiln drying large slabs. But I have no experience drying wood. The slabs in the pics are pin oak. Is it better to kiln dry the slabs, air dry them, or a combo of each?
 
lumberjackchef said:
I have heard bad things about kiln drying large slabs. But I have no experience drying wood. The slabs in the pics are pin oak. Is it better to kiln dry the slabs, air dry them, or a combo of each?


OOPS. Got korn-fused with another thread. Oak won't have the pitch problem so my statement would't apply here.

If you have time to wait, air drying will probably be your best option. The problems caused by kiln drying are usually caused by drying too fast. I'll be using a combo on the pecan slabs I posted. Air dry to 12%+- then take it to the kiln (mostly to kill the bugs).
 
Adrpk said:
Um, I have my dawgs off for milling. Maybe thats why mine tips on the bar. Thanks.


my 066 which is basically a 660 (newer poly flywheel) will tip with a 32" bar and the stock dawgs in place.....

-Steve
 
Steve, my old 066 will tip with a 28" bar. I put the big dawgs on it, and it doesnt tip anymore. The big dawgs come down even with the bottom of the saw, and extend out about 4", helping to support the bar weight.
 

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