My first Mill or 3

[Dai Sensei]

While you are at it you might want to consider drilling the same hole on the other side of the bar for when you flip the bar.

Yep, I was going to, but I still have to do the 60" and I was worried my drills wouldn't last. Once I have one in each bar done, I'll go back and do the other side.

One thing I have done on my small mill is add quick click on-off garden hose fittings to the hose that connects the aux-oil line.
On this small (20" bar) mill the oil bolt does not run through the bar but drips oil direct onto the gap between the chain and the bar. This means the mill can be use by any small chainsaw.

Currently on the BIL mill I have a shower hose screw fitting (which is much easier to get of and on than using a hose clamp) but a click-on-off with auto-fluid-shut off like the small mill would be the way to go. That way every time you disconnect there isn't a flood of bar oil everywhere.

I use the click-on-off with auto-fluid-shut off for my water cooling on BIL see here.

At the moment it only has a 1/4" hose, so not suited for the quick click connections, and it slips off the connectors without too much trouble (just tight enough not to leak). The two taps can be sepparated though, so I might put the second one nearer the bar to minimise oil spillage.

Water cooling - next on the list, great idea, I'd seen it on your other posts. The big bars will be used usually out bush (I am on standard city block, not rural), so I need to think on how to set up without using heaps of water, and low pressure/no power.

 

[BobL]

At the moment it only has a 1/4" hose, so not suited for the quick click connections, and it slips off the connectors without too much trouble (just tight enough not to leak). The two taps can be sepparated though, so I might put the second one nearer the bar to minimise oil spillage.

It maybe OK now while its soft and pliable but I find that clear PVC hose goes hard after a while which together with the vibe from the saw will make it leak. Then you will need hose clamp.

If you ever want to go the click connect route, a standard 1/4" BSP threaded plastic garden hose nozzle (with click connect on the other end) will with a little coercion self tap onto a 5/16" bolt, so you will need a 6 mm to 5/16 adapter.

I wouldn't worry too much about water cooling until you get the hang of milling without it - it's hard enough remembering to do everything safely without worrying about water cooling

 

[Dai Sensei]

Last but not least is my chain guard. Most of my experience with milling has been at this end whilst using some-one else's mill, and it didn't have a guard much to my horror. It was something I was always worried about.

I wanted protection from above and on the sides, but wanted to be able to see the bar and have access to the oiler connection etc. I finally came up with a design based on a hinged cover made from then perforated (0.5" holes) plate. I just cut and bent it to suit, adding a few welds to hold it, then welded a hinge at the top. It is 8" by 8" (200x200mm) and 3.2" (80mm) deep, so a bit of over kill size wise, but it gives me plenty of room so saw dust should fall away easily. The 0.5" holes also allows my oiler hose through without any problems.

You can also get an idea what colour the mills going to be. Tomorrow I hope to do a final assembly and give it a test run

 

[Dai Sensei]

They are finished

Well I put them all together today, but unfortunately ran out of time to run it. I also coated all the sliding parts with a spray on product called "Easy-Glide" that sets hard and works a treat, I use it on all my cast iron surfaces of my lathe/bandsaw/tablesaw etc.

Anyway, here is the 25"

The 42"

and the big 60"

Cheers

 

[DRB]

Nice work. Now let us see some sawdust on that thing it's way to clean.

 

[aggiewoodbutchr]

Let's see some sawdust!

 

[820wards]

Dai,

Your mill looks great. I still need to make the nose guard for my mill and I like the idea of a hinged piece. I just may copy what you did. Hope you don't mind? If a blade does come loose your guard will defiantly stop the chain and save someones leg from getting messed up. Safety first!

Lets see some dust now!
jerry-

 

[BobL]

Neil

I'm not sure about the unlocked hinged guard. While most of the time the accidental forces on it will be downwards, I would hate to think what would happen if somehow the guard was flipped up, say by someone walking into it at an upward angle, legs do angle upwards during part of a stride. Also if it is loose it will rattle and bounce around during cutting and eventually could even break off. I would think about locking/bolting it down firmly if you can.

 

[Dai Sensei]

.. I just may copy what you did. Hope you don't mind?

Go for it

Neil

I'm not sure about the unlocked hinged guard. While most of the time the accidental forces on it will be downwards, I would hate to think what would happen if somehow the guard was flipped up, say by someone walking into it at an upward angle, legs do angle upwards during part of a stride. Also if it is loose it will rattle and bounce around during cutting and eventually could even break off. I would think about locking/bolting it down firmly if you can.

It has some weight, so tends to stay there, but I do have a locking elbow joint some where in the workshop and might attached that. As you imply, better to be safe.

Thanks for the comments everyone.

 

[BobL]

but I do have a locking elbow joint some where in the workshop and might attached that. As you imply, better to be safe.

That sounds ideal!

 

[Matildasmate]

Nice simple design job Neil , look's great mate