New arrival from CT, wanting to learn more about being an arborist.

[Jed1124]

While that statement is true in general, I was inspired to check on the facts.

Imadocloprid is such a common insecticide, I couldn't see any reason for that. It turns out that the formulations that are restricted use are the IMIDACLOPRID 2F SLECT T/I and IMIDACLOPRID 75WSP. These are the formulations that can be mixed with water and sprayed, thereby posing a huge risk to foraging bees.

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Imisol, the injectable formulation from Mauget is also restricted. NOT ALL the injectable formulations seem to be on the list of restricted use formulations of imidacloprid. Similar restrictions are likely for all other neonicotinoids, which are very bad for honey bees.

That being said, while you might find some formulations that are still available in Connecticut, you should not treat your trees until after the ash trees (or any other that you might treat) are long since done with their flowering season.

Ash trees pollinate in mid-spring and are primarily pollinated by air. Still, the pollen of the trees would be toxic to bees if previously treated by neonicotinoids, and the trees should not be treated until after the male trees are no longer tossing their genes into the air.

EAB (Emerald Ash Borer) begins its life cycle in late spring when the adults emerge. Eggs are laid later than the flowering period of the ash trees, so just treat after the proper conditions have arrived. You will get better results, too!

All neonics are restricted in CT and require a license to buy.
As a matter of fact, the legislature are considering banning them all together, similar to what has been done in NY and NJ.
It’s a terrible thing when uneducated bureaucrats make laws about things they don’t understand.
When used PROPERLY they are very good tools in the arborist’s tool box.

 

[Fegelmaus]

All neonics are restricted in CT and require a license to buy.
As a matter of fact, the legislature are considering banning them all together, similar to what has been done in NY and NJ.
It’s a terrible thing when uneducated bureaucrats make laws about things they don’t understand.
When used PROPERLY they are very good tools in the arborist’s tool box.

I have heard that too. I just ordered a quart of treeage G4, so when it gets hear I will treat them in the spring.
What time of year do you guys generally do treeage r10? I've seen different times suggested, so I'm not sure what time to inject the trees.

 

[Jed1124]

I have heard that too. I just ordered a quart of treeage G4, so when it gets hear I will treat them in the spring.
What time of year do you guys generally do treeage r10? I've seen different times suggested, so I'm not sure what time to inject the trees.

After the trees have fully leafed out in the late spring/early summer.

 

[Fegelmaus]

After the trees have fully leafed out in the late spring/early summer.

Sounds good!
Also in the how to apply instructions for the G4, it says,
“for more uniform distribution in the canopy, dilute product 1 to 9 parts of water.
It also says “for bark beetles that attack the tree bole, inject every 4 inches of circumference “
The last thing it says is” for bark beetles that attack the canopy, dilute 1 to 9 with water”
So should I be diluting 1 to 9 parts of water when applying? Or do I not have to dilute it that much?
And I should be drilling holes every 4 inches of circumference? I was told by a different source to do every 6.

 

[Jed1124]

Sounds good!
Also in the how to apply instructions for the G4, it says,
“for more uniform distribution in the canopy, dilute product 1 to 9 parts of water.
It also says “for bark beetles that attack the tree bole, inject every 4 inches of circumference “
The last thing it says is” for bark beetles that attack the canopy, dilute 1 to 9 with water”
So should I be diluting 1 to 9 parts of water when applying? Or do I not have to dilute it that much?
And I should be drilling holes every 4 inches of circumference? I was told by a different source to do every 6.

I've never seen any reason to dilute G4 and have always had good results in the past injecting it straight. I like to be closer to every 4" for good distribution.

 

[Fegelmaus]

I've never seen any reason to dilute G4 and have always had good results in the past injecting it straight. I like to be closer to every 4" for good distribution.

Gotcha, sounds good! So whenever you’ve applied G4 for EAB, you’ve only done full strength? Never any water?
Which is good as the chemjet injectors only hold 20 ml each.
So it looks like this first tree being 16 “ dbh, I can apply 135 ml-180ml if I treat it using the high dosage.
So with injecting every 4” around the trunk, I get a total of 12 injection sites.
So it seems like I would use 14ml aprox per injector.
Does that seem about right?

 

[Jed1124]

Gotcha, sounds good! So whenever you’ve applied G4 for EAB, you’ve only done full strength? Never any water?
Which is good as the chemjet injectors only hold 20 ml each.
So it looks like this first tree being 16 “ dbh, I can apply 135 ml-180ml if I treat it using the high dosage.
So with injecting every 4” around the trunk, I get a total of 12 injection sites.
So it seems like I would use 14ml aprox per injector.
Does that seem about right?

Yes. We used to dilute with water when the original Tree Age first came out but not since. Especially with G4. There is no need for it.
There is no need to use the high rate with a 16" tree. 80ml will be fine for a tree that size.
Every 4" around the trunk would be 4 sites. Try to inject into the root flare (which should be wider than the dbh) so 4 sites of 20ml each or 6 sites of 14ml each.

 

[Fegelmaus]

Yes. We used to dilute with water when the original Tree Age first came out but not since. Especially with G4. There is no need for it.
There is no need to use the high rate with a 16" tree. 80ml will be fine for a tree that size.
Every 4" around the trunk would be 4 sites. Try to inject into the root flare (which should be wider than the dbh) so 4 sites of 20ml each or 6 sites of 14ml each.

Gotcha, thank you!
And my bad, this tree is 48 inches in circumference, so 16 inches in diameter.
I’m thinking 12 sites with 15 ml each whicg would be a total of 140 ml. Or is that probably still excessive?

 

[Jed1124]

Gotcha, thank you!
And my bad, this tree is 48 inches in circumference, so 16 inches in diameter.
I’m thinking 12 sites with 15 ml each whicg would be a total of 140 ml. Or is that probably still excessive?

That's a bit on the heavy side but for the first application I don't see why not.

 

[Fegelmaus]

That's a bit on the heavy side but for the first application I don't see why not.

Sounds good, thanks for all of the detailed information and help! I’m gonna treat this one and I think a second one as well. I’ve heard treeage is generally applied once every two years, is that what you do as well?

 

[Jed1124]

Sounds good, thanks for all of the detailed information and help! I’m gonna treat this one and I think a second one as well. I’ve heard treeage is generally applied once every two years, is that what you do as well?

Yes, every two years. You may be able to do every 3 years down the road if the insect pressure is not too high in your area.

 

[Fegelmaus]

Yes, every two years. You may be able to do every 3 years down the road if the insect pressure is not too high in your area.

Sweet, sounds like a plan. I think I got a pretty good plan going forward then.
The instructions for drilling I’m following.
Drill the first three holes around tree at 45 degree angle downward no more than 1.25 inch deep.
Looks good to you? I understand that I want to inject it under the bark into the xylem, I’m just slightly unsure how deep to be drilling. I almost feel that is too deep

 

[Jed1124]

Sweet, sounds like a plan. I think I got a pretty good plan going forward then.
The instructions for drilling I’m following.
Drill the first three holes around tree at 45 degree angle downward no more than 1.25 inch deep.
Looks good to you? I understand that I want to inject it under the bark into the xylem, I’m just slightly unsure how deep to be drilling. I almost feel that is too deep

Mark your drill with a piece of tape at 1" and don't hit the tape which will average you around .75"-.85"
Make sure you use what is called a "high helix" drill bit. Run the drill to full speed going in and coming out. This will pull the wood out as you are pulling the bit back.
Older trees need to go deeper due to the thickness of the bark but on a 16" one inch should be plenty. As long as you are pulling white wood out you are in the xylem.

 

[Fegelmaus]

Mark your drill with a piece of tape at 1" and don't hit the tape which will average you around .75"-.85"
Make sure you use what is called a "high helix" drill bit. Run the drill to full speed going in and coming out. This will pull the wood out as you are pulling the bit back.
Older trees need to go deeper due to the thickness of the bark but on a 16" one inch should be plenty. As long as you are pulling white wood out you are in the xylem.

Good advice, thank you sir! I’m excited to try it out come spring time.