new saw/m tronic.

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sand sock

sand sock

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so i have had about 6to 8 saws over the years, all were old school carbs. i cut a ton of wood every year and i need to be able to work on my saw myself, for simple parts. my stihl dealer was bought out and it is a minimun 1 hour service charge of $100/hour. if it is a $12 fuel line and 20 minutes. ongrats its $112 bill. do i need to fear m tronic saws. i have used a 361 since 2008, 30 to 50 cords a year. think that is about a 60cc saw. i need to be grtting another big saw like that. stihl 362 is only m tronic. i have not used a husqvarna but like how i have seen them run. does husky use some version of m tronic also? any thoughts on the

Husqvarna 562 xp ? is that fairly comparable and simple to swap parts out?​

 
holeycow

holeycow

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562 is autotune

I thought that a non-mtronic 362 is available in the US??

get the 361 rebuilt. If the cases are good, the whole saw can be rebuilt for less than the cost of a new 362. Other than antivibe, it is a better saw.

there are some on here that can make your 361 better than new.
 
lone wolf
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Prowling The Pine Barrens
so i have had about 6to 8 saws over the years, all were old school carbs. i cut a ton of wood every year and i need to be able to work on my saw myself, for simple parts. my stihl dealer was bought out and it is a minimun 1 hour service charge of $100/hour. if it is a $12 fuel line and 20 minutes. ongrats its $112 bill. do i need to fear m tronic saws. i have used a 361 since 2008, 30 to 50 cords a year. think that is about a 60cc saw. i need to be grtting another big saw like that. stihl 362 is only m tronic. i have not used a husqvarna but like how i have seen them run. does husky use some version of m tronic also? any thoughts on the

Husqvarna 562 xp ? is that fairly comparable and simple to swap parts out?​

Mtrons are good when working but when they crap out good luck. Harder to troubleshoot compared to to old style stuff.
 
Wood Doctor
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Mtrons are good when working but when they crap out good luck. Harder to troubleshoot compared to to old style stuff.
Except perhaps the Stihl Farm Boss series. I just replaced an ignition module on a 290 that had a broken plug wire. Dang thing required almost a complete take down for what is normally a simple repair.
 
Gord404
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Chemainus B.C. Canada
590 Echo seems to be a great saw and very simple to work on- rebuilt the top end of a straight gassed one and it was a pleasure to work on, similar design to the 365 xp, Did a muffler mod and eliminated carb needle adjustment limiters and they really move out, well made Japanese saw that put a little pride into their work and besides that keep that work up and the other 2 big guys might have to come up with something better than (moronic or autoboom control)- just had to borrow that phrase, morning humor, thx
 
Wood Doctor
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I’d rather a standard carb, but the auto tune / m-tronic seems to be very reliable now days
Agreed. The Stihl 441 cm I rebuilt took forever and drove me bonkers, but the saw starts and runs as it should. It amazes me that it has one setting for both a cold start and a warm start. Somehow it seems to have a brain in there somewhere, so it never floods. Usually takes 5 pulls to cold start it after its sits several days, but it always comes to life.
 
ericm979

ericm979

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I have yet to have a carb problem (or any problem) with my Mtronic saws so I can't say how easy or hard they are to fix. But they always run perfectly tuned without me breaking out the screwdriver and tach. The 5 year old 362CM that sees a lot of use does not like it when I run it hard and shut it down immediately but letting it idle a few seconds fixes that and also lets it cool down, so it's a good practice anyhow.
 

J D

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"Autoboom" 🤣
If you're mechanically inclined & intend to do any of your own maintenance/repairs a traditional carb will be far more preferable.
M-tronic/Auto-tune has it's place... untill the warranty runs out
 
Jawby

Jawby

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Feb 4, 2022
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I was looking for a ms362 for my homeowner firewood saw. I was not comfortable with the mtronic because the few saws I've had, have been good to me with just carbs. With a tach and the lil knowhow and tools i have i can keep them running (without a computer, except to browse great sites like arborsite, ope, youtube)... so yeah KISS. My dealer is one of two in my area and a great & honest outfit. He had told me he was not a fan of the earlier mtronics but anymore the ver3 made it an "either/or" for him. My buddy has been running a ms362cm for 6+ years and not had a problem. I decided to get over my simplistic stupid ways and embrace change by purchasing one of two ms362cm's that came in Wednesday, while it was still on the shelf, he hadn't gotten any carb'd ones. I ran it a bit after work for three evenings taking it easy, probably babying it a bit more than i should have and letting it idle more than normal (the next one will be ran on day one like it will be run on tank 70 but i wasn't sure if the moronic had a tattle-tale). It had a few strange hiccups and just shut off out of the blue (once, but restarted) in the first few tanks, I just chalked it up to the mtronics getting used to it's new home. Headed to the woods to cut firewood saturday on it's third tank and started to open it up under load in some 20+" fir with a 25"/24"(whatever :) ) stihl bar, 84t. It made some nice cuts and really throws the chips when it is "hitting on all cylinders 😉 ".... but then it started to fall off in the cut on the top end. It'd rev up fine(ish) but a lil bit into the cut it would become very weak...lacking...gutless. Of course it's 4pm in the woods on a saturday and the dealer closes at 5 and isn't open sunday. Kicked myself for not having bought an extra plug figuring it may of fouled the new plug from the idling... i pulled the plug at home and cleaned it up an tried it in some smaller 10-14" fir...nope. i tried the reset/calibrate procedure from the manual but it would not stay running on the triangle/start position (like die after 4-6 secs) ran and idled otherwise after the throttle blip. I dropped it off to the dealer yesterday morning and picked it up this afternoon. They showed me the defective solenoid that they warrantied free of charge. I decided to buy 4 plugs, an air filter, and 2 fuel filters just to have on hand. They said they don't often see the solenoid go out... once it's out of warranty i will be keeping an extra solenoid with me too. I just put it through a couple dozen cuts in my 10"-14" diameter fir log pile and it didn't hiccup once... it starts great and pulls amazing (for what it is)...I'll give it a chance to convert me but will always have a carburated saw with me to keep from wasting a day in the permit area.
 
Michael Bradshaw

Michael Bradshaw

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I was in the market for a new saw a little over a month ago, I wanted a saw that was lighter then the ones I have now but yet had more horsepower than what I currently have. I did a lot of research and went to several shops, I looked at Stihl saws and Husqvarna saws. I have had great luck with both manufactures. (I think that general Maintenace goes a very long way in the service life of your chainsaw's) After figuring out what I wanted vs what I needed, I decided on the Stihl MS 462. I went with the standard carburetor model without the M-tronic system. Each and every one of us has to make a decision on witch type of saw to get based on our skillset and knowledge. I went with the non-computer version only because I have spent the last 30+ years running and or being around the standard carburetor type chainsaws. Both the MS 462 and the MS 462C weight the same and both have the same horsepower and will both except the same length bars. So for me I chose the set up I was most familiar with. That said, I do own a saw with the M-Tronic system and for the most part I have had no problems with it. They run well and cut good. either way you go you will end up with a great saw that will serve you well as long as you are willing to keep up with the general Maintenace. HAPPY CUTTING!!
 

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