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53trb

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Jun 13, 2008
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Location
MI
Hello
I don't want to say I am new, been cutting for years just not getting the most out of my energy put in.

I have been cutting with a Stihl 026 for 10 years. I just picked up a Stihl 044 with a 20" Windsor bar (was supposed to be a 24" but got hosed on e-bay).

I have always relied on the Stihl dealer to take care of my chains, and what not. I am getting tired of that, I have been looking for a 24" bar for the 044 and realized I do not know how to do this.
Picth, kerf, full chisle, half chisle, Skip tooth... I do not know what these all mean, or when to use them.

I just ordered Douglas Dent's book, will all of this be in there?

I cut tree's, wood to heat my house, I normally do not fell trees, just buck them then they are on the ground (Lots of friends always have free wood offers).

The 044 is a much larger saw, and all I have been reading is horror stories about kick back and what not. Last thing I want to do is hurt myself just trying to save money heating the house.

I have never had a problem, or close call with the 026 and I would like to keep it that way with the 044. I have all my gear and I use it every time. I stay on the ground, (I would like to climb and cut but better judgement (my wife) keeps me out of the trees)

Any help or suggestions on a 24" bar chain combo for the 044 is appreciated. I like the Windsor bar I currently have (speed tip), but am open to Oregon, Stihl (expensive)

I cut in Michigan, and try to stick with hardwoods, maple, oak, cherry, ash Lots of standing dead ash. Would I use a Skip tooth chain on pine if I were to ever cut it?

Lots of ? I know

Thanks
Todd
 
I have run the skip tooth in an Elm and didn't like it much, vibrated like I was hanging onto my old 12Valve diesel. Switched over to a full chisel on my 051 and cut like a dream. I prefer skip tooth on Pine since it is such a soft wood. Personally running a Stihl 051, Husky 455, Stihl 025 and Homey XL-12 I have never experienced kickback that was unexpected ie cutting with the top tip of the bar to finish a cut I screwed up on, expected it to kick so cut through at just above idle so it was about a 2" jump. I have found in some of the dirtier wood the skip tooth stays sharper longer than the full chisel. As to your 24" B&C search, go to Bailey's, you can find them on the top of the home page. They are great at setting you up with a combo that will do what you want for a very reasonable price.
 
I'd second that recommendation to call Bailey's. Aks you questions, and they will help you pick the right bar/chain combo for what you need. It does come down to personal preference at some point...but I have not been disappointed with Bailey's.

The only thing I have skip tooth on is the 32" bar. I am no expert on chain selection, but my understanding is that both bar length and wood type would dictate the use of skip tooth...
 
Where in Michigan? Welcome to AS, many members from Michigan probably someone close that would be happy to give ya a hand...some of us are always looking for excuses to cut.
Good advice to talk w/ Bailey's, if there is a good local shop that you trust that would be another place to get some good advice on chains/bars.
 
bowtechmadman, I am in lower MI. Ann Arbor area.

Thanks for the input. I have been too many other things and i haven't even run my saw.
 
I have always relied on the Stihl dealer to take care of my chains, and what not. I am getting tired of that, I have been looking for a 24" bar for the 044 and realized I do not know how to do this.
Picth, kerf, full chisle, half chisle, Skip tooth... I do not know what these all mean, or when to use them.


Do you really need a 24" bar? I don't find much that a 20" can't handle plus you will see a little more chain speed on the 20". A 20" bar will cut up to a 40" tree. I'd suggest 3/8 (.375) if your sprocket is 3/8 check the bar your using it should tell you. Depending on how dirty the wood your cutting: dirty-semi chisel, clean- full chisel. Semi will hold an edge better and will be easier to sharpen...full chisel little faster cutting. May want to get a loop of each.
I've never run skip but would imagine you probably won't need skip if you stay at 24" or under w/ an 044. Skip tooth is exactly what it says...only half as many cutters, skips every other tooth. Groove width of the bar is the other dimension you will need to understand...majority seem to be either .50 or .58...i have no preference myself..others may chime in. Just have to make sure the chain is the same as bar.
Hopefully this helps a bit.
 
53trb

I"m 16 miles north of A2. Let me know and I'll being some logs home from work and you can have at it. I run a 460 w/20" semi and full chisel depending on what wood I'm cutting. Also have a 910 Jonsered w/24". You can try that also.
 
Thanks guys
I will get a few chains and start at it... Thanks for the input and I will let you know what I end up with
Chuck, I will get ahold of you, I may take you up on cutting.

Thanks
 
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