NewShockerGuy
ArboristSite Lurker
So I gotta say hello and this is my first post on here... been lurking for a while reading lots of info... I'm amazed at how much info is here... reminds me of my garage forum!
I just picked up my first chainsaw, an Echo cs-370. We just had a patio built and had a fire pit installed made. Call me cheap but I refuse to pay for firewood...lol
So in my thought process I already on an axe, I figured I'd start chopping all the dead trees in the woods behind our house. That got old after about 10 minutes. I did pick up a Fiskars X27 Super Splitting Axe, 36-Inch model and I'm quite impressed with it's splitting ability for it's low cost. I go the Echo because I have all other Echo 2-strokes and I really enjoy them.
So reading here I know this isn't a big saw, at least not compared to ones I've see people use for work or a living here, I'm just a home owner that wants to cut fallen trees in the woods into 20" logs, then manually split them. I think this saw will do quite well with that. First thing I started reading here is people modding their saw. No problem, that actually seems really cool. It's very hard for me to leave ANYTHING I touch in its stock form.
I have read that I should drill out the CAT from the muffler. Surprisingly that was actually not a long process at all. See picture: I still have to clean it up on the inside and grind more of it away, but the BULK of it is gone.
The next part I read is I am supposed to enlarge these holes? Those three holes on the right, beside where bolts go through to attach it to the chainsaw.
How much should those be enlarged? Should I make those 3 holes into 1 hole? Or is that too much.
The next part is the spark arrestor plate. I didn't nab a picture of that but from what I read that too should be enlarged. Some say keep the spark arrestor screen in, others say remove it. I will not be working in an area that is super dry but I also wouldn't want wood chips and crap to get sucked into the piston by accident.... Any thoughts.
Lastly is adjusting the Carb. I haven't found specific pictures on how to do this only by what I've read. I'm hoping someone has pictures of exactly what to remove/grind off. Then I would adjust the jets on the carb and then test cut, and continue until it's at it's peak.
Does all this sound about right yet? Again, I'm not looking to go crazy, just freeing up some power is always good, and letting it breathe better.
Long winded right.......!
I will add as well I'm a lefty, and before I was reading all the threads last night I am going to have to learn to use the saw right handed... the past couple times I've been using it with my left hand and though I can understand the danger, the way I have the wood braced up at mid level and only cutting from the back of the blade I don't see how kick back can occur, BUT, I'd rather NOT get a saw to the face, so I will be re-learning in a way how to use it with my right hand ;-p It's quite awkward holding it with my right hand but it is what it is in a way.
Thanks for reading and enjoy the forum so far!
-Nigel
I just picked up my first chainsaw, an Echo cs-370. We just had a patio built and had a fire pit installed made. Call me cheap but I refuse to pay for firewood...lol
So in my thought process I already on an axe, I figured I'd start chopping all the dead trees in the woods behind our house. That got old after about 10 minutes. I did pick up a Fiskars X27 Super Splitting Axe, 36-Inch model and I'm quite impressed with it's splitting ability for it's low cost. I go the Echo because I have all other Echo 2-strokes and I really enjoy them.
So reading here I know this isn't a big saw, at least not compared to ones I've see people use for work or a living here, I'm just a home owner that wants to cut fallen trees in the woods into 20" logs, then manually split them. I think this saw will do quite well with that. First thing I started reading here is people modding their saw. No problem, that actually seems really cool. It's very hard for me to leave ANYTHING I touch in its stock form.
I have read that I should drill out the CAT from the muffler. Surprisingly that was actually not a long process at all. See picture: I still have to clean it up on the inside and grind more of it away, but the BULK of it is gone.
The next part I read is I am supposed to enlarge these holes? Those three holes on the right, beside where bolts go through to attach it to the chainsaw.
How much should those be enlarged? Should I make those 3 holes into 1 hole? Or is that too much.
The next part is the spark arrestor plate. I didn't nab a picture of that but from what I read that too should be enlarged. Some say keep the spark arrestor screen in, others say remove it. I will not be working in an area that is super dry but I also wouldn't want wood chips and crap to get sucked into the piston by accident.... Any thoughts.
Lastly is adjusting the Carb. I haven't found specific pictures on how to do this only by what I've read. I'm hoping someone has pictures of exactly what to remove/grind off. Then I would adjust the jets on the carb and then test cut, and continue until it's at it's peak.
Does all this sound about right yet? Again, I'm not looking to go crazy, just freeing up some power is always good, and letting it breathe better.
Long winded right.......!
I will add as well I'm a lefty, and before I was reading all the threads last night I am going to have to learn to use the saw right handed... the past couple times I've been using it with my left hand and though I can understand the danger, the way I have the wood braced up at mid level and only cutting from the back of the blade I don't see how kick back can occur, BUT, I'd rather NOT get a saw to the face, so I will be re-learning in a way how to use it with my right hand ;-p It's quite awkward holding it with my right hand but it is what it is in a way.
Thanks for reading and enjoy the forum so far!
-Nigel
As long as it doesn't rain this weekend I will be able to adjust and cut for optimum performance!
