Questions about Makita chain mortiser

[trailmaker]

I'm planning on building a few mini sheds for drying split wood. I'll be moving these sheds around the property occasionally with the track loader so I want to build them solidly, timber frame style. I'm thinking about getting the Makita chain mortiser so hopefully some of you guys have experience with it and can answer my questions. First, can it make a 45 degree mortise for the braces? It doesn't appear to me that it could, from what I've seen. Second, since the chain won't leave the bottom of the mortice square, do I need to square it out with hand tools?
This is not a very common tool so any input on it would be appreciated, thanks.

 

[striperswaper]

never heard of it before, just looked real quick on the net...for that price???
if you are just doing a few try a 35cc saw with a 12" or 14" bar and 3/8 low profile pro style chain
not as strong, you could make lap joints and through bolt with threaded rod. made a number trusses this way for my sons mountain biking elevated ramps and such... has worked out well

 

[trailmaker]

Thanks for the reply. I actually have a lot of future projects in mind where I think I could use a chain mortiser and to be honest I think it's just such a cool tool that I really want one. I've done some projects using traditional joinery and I think the time saved by using the chain mortiser could pay for itself quickly if I'm using it regularly. If not, I've got another really cool tool.

 

[BC_Logger]

No the Makita chain mortiser cannot make a 45 degree cut

I have used one and my personal opinion is there a little useless because there max cutting depth is 6 inches and a set up

if your good with a small saw or a skill saw you can accomplish the same


if you want strength up your beam size and dove tail the ends to lock them together

I will try to dig up some pics of what I'm talking about

 

[BC_Logger]

look at how they do the floor joists connections

the one concern i would have with the mortise connection is with the torsional forces generated by moving the sheds. This may cause the dowels or sides of the mortise to possibly shear or crack


the dovetail will provide more meat also will help prevent the joints from pulling appart
they aslo look neat


http://www.kennebectimberframing.com/timber-frames/joinery


hope that helps

 

[trailmaker]

Thanks for the feedback logger. Good idea on the dovetails, I was just going to do lap joints. The six inch cutting depth should be enough for me, I'll be using 6x6 max for posts. Torsional forces hopefully won't be too bad, I'll design the bottom of the shed similar to a palette so I can ease the forks under and lift. Either way it's my understanding that traditional joinery, when done well, should withstand torsional forces better than screws, bolts or nails.

 

[mathuranatha]

I am thinking of doing something similar.Making a few portable cabins ,from the timber I mill ,that can be moved occasionally around our property.Because of the probable strains dragging them over uneven ground and inclines etc i was thinking of maybe making the floor frame out of steel and either make it like a sled or even put an axle and wheels under it.
What do you think of that idea?All wood would be much nicer and cheaper .Just worried about them getting all loose ,going out of square or falling apart

 

[dallasm1]

Just my 2 cents fwiw. My dad has a foolproof method of hauling any building. He has moved buildings and granaries ( metal or wooden buildings for storing grain) just about anywhere. It never mattered how the building was constructed. Here is his method:
Using a variety of methods he jacks up one end of the building. Most often with a HiLift, or with a combination of bottle jacks and timbers.
He then slides two long 10 x 10 timber under the building so that they stick out each end. At one end they are together at a point and at the other end they are wide apart.
Using jacks again, he lifts the end where the timbers are spread wide and slips an old trailer axle under them. He uses chains and binders to attach the axle to the timbers.
All that is left is to chain the other end to the back of the 3pt on the tractor, lift it up and away you go.

This method can be used to move a building of any construction. My dad has moved very flimsy buldings large distances without damaging the building.

In reference to your case, if you were building so that it could be moved easily, I would only worry about building in strong base timbers that extended out from the bulding on each end. These would not need to be the sill plates, in fact they do not need to bear any permanent load. The timbers I would build in the timbers closer to the center line of the building. As long as you build in some lifting points, you will be ok.

However, a timber frame building is much more aesthetically pleasing to look at and probably to build as well, but I do not think it would be necessary to consider the moving stresses in the construction.

 

[HUCKLEBERRY]

I've used Makita chain mortisers quite a bit and compared to the other chain mortisers (German made) it's not bad, especially given the price. It's an expensive tool but only about 1/2 of what you would pay for a Maffell etc.
It is also very versatile because it clamps to the timber and cuts parallel to the grain allowing you to make mortises of almost any size and length. The other style cuts perpendicular to the grain and pulls itself against the timber as it cuts. Fast but not quite as versatile IMO.
Regarding 45 degree mortises, the way I do it is to layout the mortise on the side of the timber and use the chain mortiser to make "step" cuts, just shy of my layout, down to the final depth. Then with a comb. square and chisel clean it up to any level of accuracy you desire.
It really should'nt matter that the botton of the mortise is rounded. All tenons should be left a little shy of the bottom anway so that shrinkage does not try to push it back out.
A nice tool if you are going to mortise very often. Hope this helps.