We have a Red Maple (at least 25 yrs old) which is a major focus of our front yard landscape. The tree was wounded many years ago from a lawnmower and developed a split in the bark, but seemed to be holding its own. Several years ago we had new landscaping done around the tree and it now has a bed of mulch at the base. The wound has grown slowly since then and this summer noticed that the bark has separated (split) much more. The main wound is approximately a foot off the ground. The split is about 8" h & 2" w. It appears the bark is now separating both below and above this wound. The tree seems healthy otherwise. Questions: Can the tree sustain itself with this wound? Is it susceptible to insect/disease through the wound? Is there anything we should be doing to keep this tree healthy?
Red Maple - Trunk Wound/Split Bark
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M.D. Vaden
vadenphotography.com
So the trunk must be at least 16" in diameter ??
Is there oozing from the damaged area, or is it just sort-of dry?
Is there oozing from the damaged area, or is it just sort-of dry?
Hey there fellow Michigander!!
I dont know what it is about Red Maples here in MI, but its hard to find one that isnt affected by a frost cracks. Even at a young age, say whips to 3/4 as they go in the ground, usually about 50% will develop some sort of splitting of the bark. I havent noticed one instance yet where the health of the tree was effected.
I am not a professional by any stretch. I used to work on a tree farm, and transplant trees, so I saw allot of issues.
I dont know what it is about Red Maples here in MI, but its hard to find one that isnt affected by a frost cracks. Even at a young age, say whips to 3/4 as they go in the ground, usually about 50% will develop some sort of splitting of the bark. I havent noticed one instance yet where the health of the tree was effected.
I am not a professional by any stretch. I used to work on a tree farm, and transplant trees, so I saw allot of issues.
Yes. The trunk is approximately 16" in diameter. There is no oozing, it is dry. I'm going to try attaching a picture (although I'm not very savvy at it, sorry) - hope it comes through. Thanks to all who have replied.
Hi pol,
Looks like you've got a Norway maple there rather than a red maple. It's possibly a Crimson King. I'm not trying to be nit-picky, but that does make a difference regarding treatment options. A red maple of that size in your landscape may be worth a greater effort to treat. Crimson Kings are susceptible to some pretty damaging girdling root problems that are evident by the mishaped root flair in the left side of picture. You'll probably want to have someone qualified come out and spew forth their 2 cents.
Looks like you've got a Norway maple there rather than a red maple. It's possibly a Crimson King. I'm not trying to be nit-picky, but that does make a difference regarding treatment options. A red maple of that size in your landscape may be worth a greater effort to treat. Crimson Kings are susceptible to some pretty damaging girdling root problems that are evident by the mishaped root flair in the left side of picture. You'll probably want to have someone qualified come out and spew forth their 2 cents.
Good eye, dakota. Trunk damage often starts with root damage. Find the Flare! See the Planting link below, dig down the edge of the trunk until you expose the roots without damaging them, and post a picture of them.
Kneejerk Bombas
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I would plant a replacement tree now, somewhere nearby, so when it gets established you can remove this tree and it won't be missed as much.
Doctor Dave
ArboristSite Operative
Mike Maas said:
Ditto.
I'd bet that the tree has some decay fungi working on the main roots and/or root crown. Not much yo can do for the tree; it might last years, or not. It already has lost some strength and stability---so the larger the crown gets, the more hazardous it will become. Don't put anything under it you don't want smashed.
Dave you are making some assumptions that can only be acted on after an RCX a root crown examination No Rx without the RCX.
"Not much yo can do for the tree; it might last years, or not."
This is not true. Mnay trees have basal decay, and there is a lot that can be done to keep their risk at a level the owner can accept.
Since some decay can be compartmentalized by a tree with adequate resources, the risk from decay may be lowered over time by managing the soil to increase those resources. Mulching, fertilizing, inoculating with microorganisms, and irrigating can encourage new root growth and increase the tree’s vitality and resources to resist decay. pruning can lighten the load and decrease risk of failure.
"Not much yo can do for the tree; it might last years, or not."
This is not true. Mnay trees have basal decay, and there is a lot that can be done to keep their risk at a level the owner can accept.
Since some decay can be compartmentalized by a tree with adequate resources, the risk from decay may be lowered over time by managing the soil to increase those resources. Mulching, fertilizing, inoculating with microorganisms, and irrigating can encourage new root growth and increase the tree’s vitality and resources to resist decay. pruning can lighten the load and decrease risk of failure.
Doctor Dave
ArboristSite Operative
treeseer said:
You're right. But we are making a diagnosis and describing possible treatments based on very little info. He needs to get an expert to make a detailed inspection, above and just below ground.
I currently have a client that wants to save two trees, a big California Walnut and an English walnut. He pulled down his house, and excavated for a bigger one, taking out significant roots on both. But they want them saved, eventhough I was doubtful that it was a good idea. I'm recommending soil injection or water and fert for both, light thinning, and cabling for the English which has decay in all the large limbs. Both trees were headed back severely in the past, the English worse.
Oh, and the excavator dumped soil under the tres when I said not to---but who am I? Just the tree hugger. Gotta go and hand dig another 50 wheel barrow loads so that I can get a soaker hose started, if the neighbor will let me (no water!) or get an estimate from the city to see what a temp water line and meter will cost.
So, yes, if the client wants it, the tree can be saved; maybe sink a metal pole in a 6 ft. concrete footing and cable the sucker up??!
Kneejerk Bombas
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Where's Clearance when you need him! Suggesting spending money on this tree is just the kind of "line the arborist's pockets" thinking he often criticizes.treeseer said:
DLK150
ArboristSite Lurker
Hello there. I have a similiar issue with what I believe is a silver maple, although the splitting is somewhat different.
In the case of our tree, there are multiple splits, all on the NE side of the tree, with what looks to be something growing inside the bark up the actual trunk. I have a couple of pictures. One shows the multiple splits, ranging from 6 inches or so to a foot long and 3/8"-3/4" across. The other shows the bark, the greyish inner trunk, and the brown growth. This growth is present in all the cracks, and from what I can tell is 1/2"-1" thick/across. They start about 2' off the ground and end about 6' up.
These cracks weren't present just a couple of days ago. We did have the hard freeze last night, but I don't see how that would explain the growth. I was startled to say the least when I saw them today.
I've had issues with this tree. The trunk is split about 1.5 feet off the ground, it had some sort of scale which I attempted to treat with dormant oil, and the thicker trunk leans fairly heavily towards the east. These splits are all on the smaller, straighter section of tree. I've been in this house for 8 years, and this tree wasn't very well kept up. It was poorly pruned, and had been run over by my wife's anti-growing-things father with a lawnmower when it was a seedling multiple times.
In the case of our tree, there are multiple splits, all on the NE side of the tree, with what looks to be something growing inside the bark up the actual trunk. I have a couple of pictures. One shows the multiple splits, ranging from 6 inches or so to a foot long and 3/8"-3/4" across. The other shows the bark, the greyish inner trunk, and the brown growth. This growth is present in all the cracks, and from what I can tell is 1/2"-1" thick/across. They start about 2' off the ground and end about 6' up.
These cracks weren't present just a couple of days ago. We did have the hard freeze last night, but I don't see how that would explain the growth. I was startled to say the least when I saw them today.
I've had issues with this tree. The trunk is split about 1.5 feet off the ground, it had some sort of scale which I attempted to treat with dormant oil, and the thicker trunk leans fairly heavily towards the east. These splits are all on the smaller, straighter section of tree. I've been in this house for 8 years, and this tree wasn't very well kept up. It was poorly pruned, and had been run over by my wife's anti-growing-things father with a lawnmower when it was a seedling multiple times.
northernmover
ArboristSite Lurker
Mike Maas said:
I agree 100%
Your tree has major root loss theese trees blow over every day. This tree is a hazard and has no visable root flare u should remove and replace asap. With the replacement tree u should mulch taking care not to bury its root flare. Be carful what u plant and how u plant making sure it is suited proper for the location.:biggrinbounce2:pol627 said:
