Replacing OEM Fuel Line With Tygon

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litefoot

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With Stihl OEM Fuel line, the carb end is smaller than the fuel filter end. Can you use Tygon with an adaptor in the middle, or would it better to find a fuel filter with a smaller nipple. to match the barb diameter of the carb?

BTW, a fuel filter is a fuel filter, right? As long s they're the same size, don't they all interchange? Or is there a difference?
 
With Stihl OEM Fuel line, the carb end is smaller than the fuel filter end. Can you use Tygon with an adaptor in the middle, or would it better to find a fuel filter with a smaller nipple. to match the barb diameter of the carb?

BTW, a fuel filter is a fuel filter, right? As long s they're the same size, don't they all interchange? Or is there a difference?

Tygon can be stretched over twice the original diameter. Use needle nose pliers and work the line over the end of the pliers. It can also be heat shaped to a larger diameter just be careful not to melt or burn it. To much heat makes it to soft. If you have a tight bend Tygon can collapse so insert a spring or double it up.

Tygon is the best non OEM line in my opinion but still not as good as most black OEM.

Cheap fuel filters can be poorly made and break down fast. Stick to a name brand.
 
Tygon can be stretched over twice the original diameter. Use needle nose pliers and work the line over the end of the pliers. It can also be heat shaped to a larger diameter just be careful not to melt or burn it. To much heat makes it to soft. If you have a tight bend Tygon can collapse so insert a spring or double it up.

Tygon is the best non OEM line in my opinion but still not as good as most black OEM.

Cheap fuel filters can be poorly made and break down fast. Stick to a name brand.

Just so I'm clear, you're suggesting using the smaller diameter Tygon to fit the carb and then heat the filter end just before sliding it over the larger filter nipple?

If you use tygon how do you get it seal off where it enters the fuel tank?

That's another question isn't it. I suppose you could use a grommet on the tank hole and if you're using smaller diameter Tygon (as suggested above), it would fit better through the now-smaller tank hole. But I have stuffed Tygon through a tank hole without a grommet and it sealed up nicely.
 
Use the oem fuel line... Grommets through saw tanks went out decades ago... I have to replace all types of ingenious "fixes" and even tygon invariably fails. It will "shrink" away from a tank hole and leaks. Stretching tygon excessively at the tank end- it will fail in a year or so... I fish out many fuel filters then have fallen off.

Aftermarket fuel filters are JUNK, and in Stihl, the larger (and all PRO) saws use a larger area filter assy. Few stihl saws use the small nipple filters. There are two filter saw sizes and two nipple sizes. There are several others for weedeaters/hedge trimmers.

If you need a smooth (non molded) fuel line, Stihl has it in many sizes and it is very good.
 
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I use the larger, usually the black tubing, so it makes the seal into the tank. If need be I will use a very small crimp on type clamp at the filter or carb if need be.
 
The only time I use something other than OEM fuel line is if it is an obslete part or if it connects two barbed ends.....but that is just me, Mike.
 
The only time I use something other than OEM fuel line is if it is an obslete part or if it connects two barbed ends.....but that is just me, Mike.

Same here and only after trying to find the obsolete part elsewhere to no avail. I will even replace the temporary fix if I eventually find the part. This gets them running in the mean time.
 
With Stihl OEM Fuel line, the carb end is smaller than the fuel filter end. Can you use Tygon with an adaptor in the middle, or would it better to find a fuel filter with a smaller nipple. to match the barb diameter of the carb?

BTW, a fuel filter is a fuel filter, right? As long s they're the same size, don't they all interchange? Or is there a difference?

Same here and only after trying to find the obsolete part elsewhere to no avail. I will even replace the temporary fix if I eventually find the part. This gets them running in the mean time.

What is the application that you're trying to fit a fuel line for? If it's an early 064, there's a superseded fuel hose for the original 1119 358 7700 that came on those- same with the early 038 application. I think it's the 7705 number now.

There's also a Rotary aftermarket hose available to fit that application but I haven't tried and so I can't offer an opinion as to the quality of it.
 
What is the application that you're trying to fit a fuel line for? If it's an early 064, there's a superseded fuel hose for the original 1119 358 7700 that came on those- same with the early 038 application. I think it's the 7705 number now.

There's also a Rotary aftermarket hose available to fit that application but I haven't tried and so I can't offer an opinion as to the quality of it.

Personally, I'm not trying to fix anything at the moment. I have done the temp. thing in the past with some vintage oldies. Mac Super 250's come to mind. The Supers have a molded OEM line while the others, including the 1 series saws just use 1/4" line. Once I found the source for the OEM part I replaced my temp. fix. I then proceeded to retro my others with the Super OEM part also. I'm weird that way and I'm fairly sure in others as well.
 
Personally, I'm not trying to fix anything at the moment. I have done the temp. thing in the past with some vintage oldies. Mac Super 250's come to mind. The Supers have a molded OEM line while the others, including the 1 series saws just use 1/4" line. Once I found the source for the OEM part I replaced my temp. fix. I then proceeded to retro my others with the Super OEM part also. I'm weird that way and I'm fairly sure in others as well.

Jay- I've just taken it for granted that you're a weird guy. :)
 
Just so I'm clear, you're suggesting using the smaller diameter Tygon to fit the carb and then heat the filter end just before sliding it over the larger filter nipple?

Size the line to the carb.

Place other end over a pair of needle nose pliers and warm up. I use a old school hair dryer with a metal bell. Do not go to far past the length needed to fit the filter.

Work the opening to the size you want by carefully opening the pliers up.

As soon as you get the size you want remove pliers and insert filter. Remember that it needs to be a tight fit.

I do not recommend translucent Tygons for impulse lines.
I am not a fan of grommets through the tank, only when all else fails.
I do not recommend multiple piece fuel lines.

Be sure you are actually using Tygon fuel lines. The name Tygon should be printed on the line. There are other brands/types such as Excelleron(might not be spelled correctly) that are not as good. Avoid the clear lines if possible.
 
If you need a smooth (non molded) fuel line, Stihl has it in many sizes and it is very good.

Can you please post the part numbers for the other diameters of line. I have asked a couple of dealers and they are unable to find more than the 3.1x5.7mm.. I do enjoy the 10m bag, best straight line available around here. Thank you.
 
Lite Foot, there are thin and thick wall Tygons for all inside diameters. That might help you with your grommet needs if you cannot find a proper line.
 
Thanks everyone for your replies. In my original post, I was observing the Stihl molded fuel line lines had differing diameters on each end which would create a problem if you're sizing new line from sections of Tygon.

The saw in question for me is the Solo 655. I ran larger diameter line through the tank...sealing the hole and then connected the filter. The larger line was then connected to a smaller line with a brass barb adaptor and then the smaller line was connected to the carb.

I wonder if the adaptor will create enough turbulence in the fuel line to cause problems. I haven't started it yet as I'm waiting to re-ring the saw.

Andy, I know you're a Stihl homer, but I do appreciate your insight into the issues you've seen with Tygon and jerry-rigged fuel lines. OEM is the best, but sometimes OEM just ain't available.
 
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