Saws with cracked fuel lines

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stihl025

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Just for my knowledge...

What type of characteristics can a saw posses when there are tiny cracks in the fuel line between the tank and carb?
 
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Just for my knowledge...

What type of characteristics can a saw posses when there are tiny cracks in the fuel line between the tank and carb?

Depends on if the cracks cause leaks. If so, as others have said you will have problems idling, and tuning. It's a airleak. It will act like any other airleak. Change it out. Takes 5 minutes.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mg8YsulFKH0 Here's a how too.

:greenchainsaw: :cheers:
 
Starts on choke, will not idle properly and dies when given the gas.
Will run for a while on choke.
You are sucking air in through the cracks when you give it throttle and it just poops out as the mixture gets leaner.
Only fix is to change the fuel line, its easy enough.
 
Well, I just replaced the fuel line on my 025. Almost 13 years of service on the original, I guess that's not bad. What a difference. Had to completely start fresh on the carb tuning. Runs like the day it was new (well, with the exception of a few mods here and there).
 
cracks

Let's see, in the past month I have replaced cracked fuel lines on Stihls, husky, Danarm, Homelite, Poulan, Echo, and Sears.

Somewhat of a common problem, I would say.

If it starts and then runs out of fuel, leans out at hi rpm, leaks fuel, or has anything that acts like a lean condition, check the fuel hose first.
 
A tell tale sign of this is a slight fuel leak when the saw lays on it's side. Like Zodiack45 said, it's like any other air leak, which means that if left unattended, it can toast the saw.
 
My 3 year old and low hour 200T needed a new fuel line. The line had cracks and no sign of fuel seepage. I took apart the carb and blew out the passageways. The saw now runs great. The idle and stalling problem are gone. I don't know if it was a plugged carb or the fuel line. I was surprised by the amount of cracking in the line at three years old.
 
Yes, it is true. I just wanted to shake up the Stihl folk a little. But with the amount of 029/290 fuel lines we sell, I am amazed that no aftermarket
company puts them out.

The sad part is, I still see Stihl 031s running the original fuel line, so the
bad gas bull cannot really apply, inferior materials used today does apply.
 
The 290 etc issue was the light getting in between the handle and the tank... they always disintegrate at the same spot. There has been UV inhibitors in the material for a few years now.

This came to light pun intended) when it was observed that a lot of 029/290's in Eastern Washington (desert-like) needed hose replacement, but a low number in Western Washington (gloomy weather) ... and many of the saws came from the same batches.. hmmmm..
 
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The 290 etc issue was the light getting in between the handle and the tank... they always disintegrate at the same spot. There has been UV inhibitors in the material for a few years now.

Which leads me to another thought. My saw lasted me almost 13 years on the original fuel line. Lucky, probably, but I think it has to do with care and maintenance as well. It's been through countless bars, chains, sprockets, air and fuel filters, spark plugs and cords of wood. I keep it clean, it gets a spray and wipe of WD40 and goes back into the case. I have never drained the fuel from the tank, but I always use Sta-bil. If that routine made it last this long, then my 357XP and my 025 will last a long time. I have never left my equipment out in the elements for the UV effect to do damage. Makes me wonder how many saws really get neglected. And yes, leaving the saw filthy, wet, outside, whatever... is neglect.
 
So should I buy some lines for my 30+ year old 028 super and 038s? I'm rebuilding a few of the latter and the 30 years old lines have no cracks and pressure tested fine.
:monkey:

If they have bcome very stiff OR enlarged/floppy, then yes... if not...

Generally though I always replace the fuel and impulse on an old saws that are being rebuilt...


The 064 I just rebuilt has been sitting inside (no gas or oil) for about 12 years. The fuel, impulse, grommets, and seals were shot. Stiff, and in the case of the grommet, hard as the plastic case. All I can figure is that it has been exposed to ozone from the machine shop.
 
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yes, I posted it that way just for you. I was going to say "flacid" but wasn't sure if you'd pick up on that :givebeer:
 
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