Setting up Alaska mill with Superstruts

[John Henry]

After reading some tips on this forum, I checked out the superstruts for my Alaskan MKIII and bought some 10' sections. Great tip by the way, since they seem to be perfect for rails.

I am going to set them up with the brackets that I got from Granberg (for using 2x4s). I started with 2x4 but found them unacceptable because of twist and flex.

I looked at redoak's nice thread on his beam milling (http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=78984) and he has a nice setup for the superstruts.

My question is: it's clear to me that I will need some vertical distance between the top of the rails and the bottom of the brackets, to allow for clearance of knots, bumps in the log, etc. If I just bolt the brackets to the rails, the overall height is only about 3-4". How does everyone do this? I should be able to just use some 2x4 short sections to get some height in the setup, but have you all found some good ways to set yours up?

Thanks in advance for any help. I find this board extremely helpful with all the expertise here.

 

[BobL]

My question is: it's clear to me that I will need some vertical distance between the top of the rails and the bottom of the brackets, to allow for clearance of knots, bumps in the log, etc.

Lumps and bumps - I just usually cut them off. Here is an extreme case.

This arty piece;

Was trimmed into this before milling.

It looks like a completely different log/tree but that's what happens to Lemon Scented Gum as it dries over 3 months, the bark turns red and falls off - that is supposedly the best time to mill them.

If I just bolt the brackets to the rails, the overall height is only about 3-4". How does everyone do this? I should be able to just use some
2x4 short sections to get some height in the setup, but have you all found some good ways to set yours up? .

I've tried using fixed length brackets and I found it too inflexible - not in terms of bending, but in terms of using them for different sizes of logs. I now use all thread between the rails and at the ends I use angle iron. This means I can adjust the distance between the rails to suit the size of the log. Big logs I have the all unistrut up to 30" apart, small logs might be only 12" apart. This the clearest shot I have of my rails. I use them all the time, every when I already have a flat milling surface and use a digital angle finder to make sure they are not twisted I get very flat slabs slabs this way.

If the log is symmetrical I screw in the wingnuts in on the all thread so the unistrut is just laying neatly on the bark and the middle of the all thread touches the bark. But if the log is a bit crooked I place the rails on top of the log and mark where the all threads cross the log. I then cut a groove with the CS at the marks so the all threads are sitting on something flat. At the ends of the unistrut I have 2" angle iron that is bolted to the unistrut, and face on to the log have holes that take 5/16" bolts. The 5/16" bolts also have points ground onto them and they bite into the wood. When I tighten the bolts they grab the ends of the log.

Here is what I do with really crooked logs. I set one end of my log rails up on the log and the other on a little steel frame and just keep cutting off slabs dropping the rails every time until I have enough flat to lay the log rails on and grab the ends of the log with my pointed bolts in the angle .

 

[redoak]

JH,

My set up is a bit different, but then I am cutting beams and dimensional lumber from generally high quality saw logs. I also wanted flexibility to expanded the rail system to cut 20' logs. When I get home tonight I'll post a detail picture of the mounting system for my rails. Here's a quick description of the set up.

I had my mechanic cut one 10' section of strut into 2 30" section and four 12" sections. The 30" section were to extend the rails as I was cutting 10' logs and the overhang is really nice for starting the cut. I used standard superstrut hardware ( 6" 4 hole flat steel plates and spring nuts) to attach the extensions to two 10' rails. The 12" pieces connect the two rails together using 4 hole 90 degree flat steel. Obviously all the connections are on the underside of the rails.

To mount to the log I used a 90 degree angle iron bolted to the bottom of the last 12" section on each end of the rail system. Then I bolted a 16" piece of pressure treated 2x4 to those angle irons. I drilled a bunch of holes in the 2x4's to recieve 16p staging nails (the two headed ones).

To mount to the log I roughly square the log with a CS. Then put the rail on top of the log resting on the middle 12" sections. One end I slide over until the 2x4 is against the butt. I measure up from the center and drive the center nail into the log to tack it in place. Head to the other side of the log, I loosen the bolts and slide the 2x4 assembly against the butt on the other side. Measure the same distance up from the center and tack with a nail. I then level both ends with a framing level nailing in 2 more staging nails on each end to maintain that position. Now I've got a plane parallel to the center of the log to run the mill over. If the middle is tippy I tack some scraps under the 12" sections keeping everything level. On a 10' strut there is essentially no deflection. If you cut 20' sections you have to support the rails more substantially, but the technique is basically the same.

BTW I cut the bottom of the log first so there is no interference from the rails. That log crib you see in the pictures makes that cut really easy. You only have to suppot the kerf with wedges at the two logs carrying the load.

Hope that helps. Like I said, I'll post that picture tonight,

-redoak

 

[redoak]

View attachment 80913JH,

Here's that picture. It has good detail of the 2x4 mounting bracket I use. Various holes for the staging nails allows for different diameter logs.

Hope this helps,

-redoak

 

[John Henry]

Thanks for great info!

BobL and Redoak, thanks for the great information and especially the pictures. I'm still sorting out some of the trial and error things, but getting tips like these really help a lot. I will be at it again this evening with the modified rails.

Thanks!

 

[Backwood]

BobL that lemon sented gum looks like it could be wrapped in elephant skin.

I like the remote throttle on your mill too.

 

[2506]

Ditto on the throttle

Great pictures, any close ups of the throttle mod? That is my next project. Thanks.

 

[BobL]

Great pictures, any close ups of the throttle mod? That is my next project. Thanks.

Here ya go!

Someone has a modded throttle which uses a similar brake handle but links direct to the carby linkage. This leaves the space in the vicinity of the trigger clear which makes it easier to use the trigger.

 

[harrygrey382]

Someone has a modded throttle which uses a similar brake handle but links direct to the carby linkage. This leaves the space in the vicinity of the trigger clear which makes it easier to use the trigger.

would that be me...? - http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=71682
Mine's working well, but I reckon when it comes down to use BobL's is at least as good too. If you go my route, don't forget the rubber washer (or maybe use a nylock or psring washer) when clamping to the throttle rod

 

[BobL]

would that be me...? - http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=71682
Mine's working well, but I reckon when it comes down to use BobL's is at least as good too. If you go my route, don't forget the rubber washer (or maybe use a nylock or psring washer) when clamping to the throttle rod

Yep - that's you!!