sprocket/rim replacement on 346XP NE

[wildbio]

It looks as though I need to remove the clutch/drum to access the sprocket/rim on the 346XP.
and the below tools are what I need to do it?
Baileys site has a great set of photos which show the use of their clutch removal tool.
http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=531 03 05 75
Here's their piston stop:
http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=10615

I'm wanting to make sure I understand the process for sprocket/rim replacement and have the correct tools.
Any advice is appreciated.

 

[hornett22]

those are correct.

you can make the first tool with a deep large socket and a die grinder.the second tool is handy,i have one.you can also put small rope in the cylinder and slowly bring the piston up to compress the rope.if you have the socket and air power you don't need the second tool or rope.i use my 3/8 impact with the socket and it zips off easy.remember the clutch is on with reverse threads! so your impact will need to be set for tightening a normal fastener.

 

[wildbio]

thanx hornett22. I have so many projects going right now, an infant son (the biggest project of all)....and never enough time so I'll just buy the tools. I just got the 346XP yesterday and haven't even used it yet......just wanting to make sure I have what I need for maintenance, rim changes, etc. ahead of time.

 

[SawTroll]

I just place a semi-blunt chisel in the right spot (pretty obvious where that is) on the clutch, at a sharp angle, and hit that chisel sharply with an hammer - no piston stop needed......

 

[Trigger-Time]

If you use a rope, make sure the piston is above the ports in cylinder
before inserting rope. Don't want part off rope catching in port and breaking top of piston.



.

 

[Trigger-Time]

I just place a semi-blunt chisel in the right spot (pretty obvious where that is) on the clutch, at a sharp angle, and hit that chisel sharply with an hammer - no piston stop needed......

IMO very, very bad idea. lot of shock to crank shaft & bearing.

 

[wildbio]

thanx for the good advice/options/ideas. The special tools don't cost much and are cheaper than a new clutch, etc. should I mess something up!

 

[SawTroll]

IMO very, very bad idea. lot of shock to crank shaft & bearing.

Maybe, but no worse than an impact wrench, I believe?

 

[Trigger-Time]

Maybe, but no worse than an impact wrench, I believe?

I think Lake has said, Not to use an impact wrench also.

 

[Austin1]

I prefer a rope over a piston stop myself, Just don't like the idea of the piston hitting metal.

 

[Trigger-Time]

I prefer a rope over a piston stop myself, Just don't like the idea of the piston hitting metal.

Like the rope also, piston stop puts all the pressure in one little small spot.
Rope spreads it out over a bigger area of piston.

 

[wildbio]

the workshop manual lists two parts for this task (not that there aren't other ways to do it).
Clutch removal tool: part # 502 54 16-01
piston stop: part # 502 54 15-01
both are shown in the attached:

 

[SawTroll]

I just wonder why the recesses that fit the chisel etc are there at all, if it is no-no to use them for what they seem designed for......:censored:

 

[wildbio]

I just wonder why the recesses that fit the chisel etc are there at all, if it is no-no to use them for what they seem designed for......:censored:

good point (I know you mentioned using a DULL chisel but pardon the pun just the same)

 

[Austin1]

I just wonder why the recesses that fit the chisel etc are there at all, if it is no-no to use them for what they seem designed for......:censored:

I agree with you Mr Troll I use a Brass one I made up years ago for this job. I think it makes no difference a sharp smack with a hammer not a sledge hammer, or a huge amount of twisting torque. I prefer the smack method. Anyway I find on little saws the Clutch does not get that tight.

 

[hornett22]

i use a 3/8 impact.

it's old so it's probably worn out.doesn't even seem like it's tight.been doing it for years.no problems.