stihl 009 reed valve

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dq72

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Would removing the reed valve from the spacer/insulator that it's in (and ofcourse re-install insulator)make the saw run any better or not at all? The 009 I have is an orange model & it runs ok but to me seems like it could run a little better. I've already put carb kit, fuel lines, filter & spark plug in it. Muffler is clean & clear. This is my first reed valve model I've ever owned so if someone can give me the good/bad about these little saws, it'd be greatly appreciated. Thanks, David. :msp_confused:
 
If it runs ok at all consider yourself blessed and leave it be. Ive messed with one and it had an uncurable air leak under the carb by the reed block.
 
This saw was given to me and I've only invested about 15 bucks in it so the money isn't that big of a deal. I really don't need it but thought it'd be fun to tinker with so if it blows up- so what, no big loss. I'm just wanting to know if the saw will even run with the reed valve removed from the reed block. If anyone knows, please chime in. Thanks, David.
 
This saw was given to me and I've only invested about 15 bucks in it so the money isn't that big of a deal. I really don't need it but thought it'd be fun to tinker with so if it blows up- so what, no big loss. I'm just wanting to know if the saw will even run with the reed valve removed from the reed block. If anyone knows, please chime in. Thanks, David.

You can probably tell by looking. If carb is mounted to reed body then crankcase, reed is needed to control induction/transfer. If reed body is mounted to cylinder, induction is likely also piston-ported, and at best engine will not run as well without reed to prevent return pulsing. (The latter is apparently a recent innovation.)

If a leaking crank seal or cylinder gasket is a big problem, a missing reed is a humongous one.
 
You can probably tell by looking. If carb is mounted to reed body then crankcase, reed is needed to control induction/transfer. If reed body is mounted to cylinder, induction is likely also piston-ported, and at best engine will not run as well without reed to prevent return pulsing. (The latter is apparently a recent innovation.)

If a leaking crank seal or cylinder gasket is a big problem, a missing reed is a humongous one.

The crankcase still needs to have fuel/oil go through it or rod bearings and other internals wouldn't get any lubrication.
 
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