Stihl 024 clutch-end assembly

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bump_r

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Hey, guys, long time. Missed you guys and the discussion here.

I was recently given some garage-queens and I'm getting real close to getting them back in the woods. They had out-of-state shop tags on them, so I suppose they were buy-outs of a defunct shop. What I got:

Stihl 017; needed clutch assy, bar and chain, oil pump drive, sprocket cover and bar adjuster. Got a package lot of all the (used) stuff - less what I already had hanging on a nail and the bar adjuster - I needed for cheap. It's all together except the bar adjuster, that's going on this weekend. Handy little 14" limber. Starts, runs, idles fine. Found out why it was shelved before being scavenged for parts - the muffler screen was 100% plugged - about 1/6" of rusty scaley barnacles totally blocked it. No wonder it was retired.

Stihl 036 Not sure if it's "pro" or not: Needed both orange plastic covers, sprocket bearing, bar nuts, sprocket cover, air filter, muffler cover, bar and chain. I already had a 20" B/C on the nail for the MS460, it went to the 036. I got it all assembled then the fuel line cracked. Good timing, I suppose. I hope to get a new line this weekend. The piston has minor scratching on exhaust side, intake side of bore looks 100%. It did start, run and idle before the fuel line let go. I'm pretty optimistic about this machine, but it may well bring on an early retirement for the MS290...

now the actual subject of this post...
Stihl 024 This was the cream puff. It should be a great step between my MS170 (already had that, the 017 listed above is a duplicate and has already been forwarded to my "cuttin' buddy") and MS290/036. Needed new sprocket (chain was obviously run quite loose based on wear pattern), bar and chain. And a good douching.

My issue is thus:
Got the stuff, and I'm having a bear of a time with the clutch-end reassembly. The circlip and steel washer are super tough to get on, and the stack-up is so tight that the sprocket does not free-wheel relative to the crankshaft. It appears as though the oil pump is friction-driven by the back-side of the clutch, thus always driven, even at idle. It appears as though the clutch is not travelling deep enough inward to allow the sprocket adequate clearance versus the clutch hub. I disassembled the whole ting down to and including the oil pump - no foreign stuff skewing the stack-up, no extra stuff in there, all looks as it should. Re-assembled, same deal.

I've looked over the IPL, it appears as though I have it all together right, but I'm sure I dont. I've run a search here for "024 +oil +pump" and came up empty. I hope someone here has dealt with this issue and now consider me a nutcase, and I have no defense for that thought. Enlightenment, gentlemen?

Thanks in advance.

Oh, for the record, all my new and used parts came from my gem of a dealer. Once he understood that I was doing this for me, not one of his (potential) customers or for profit in general, he offered to scrounge through HIS parts saws and bag up me up what I needed. He's cool like that.
 
Look and see if there is an extra shim washer under the worm drive, it might have gotten put on by mistake. Make sure the drum does not have a notch in it as well.
 
Yeah good advice from fish. I assume your using the correct thickness washer? Also is it a stihl clutch drum your installing? I've had some fitment issues with a couple other manufacturer's clutch drums. Maybe shoot us a picture and post it if you have the ability.

Stihl 036 - If it has a decompression button on it then its a Pro.
 
There is no washer under or over the worm gear - there is a large plate, however, Item 1 or 32 of digram "D" of the IPL. Maybe it's out of place and acting as a shim. I know tha twhen I forgot that part (hiding under the saw on second re-assembly) it went together rather well. Rats!

There is no notch in either to original or new drum. There is no external drive mechanism/tang for the oil pump - which is where I think you were going with the notch - this woudl be for the adjustable oiler, right? Mine appears to be the base-model, non-adjustable.

Thanks, Fish.
 
Yeah good advice from fish. I assume your using the correct thickness washer? Also is it a stihl clutch drum your installing? I've had some fitment issues with a couple other manufacturer's clutch drums. Maybe shoot us a picture and post it if you have the ability.

Stihl 036 - If it has a decompression button on it then its a Pro.

All OE parts. Either original as I got it or dealer-provided new parts.

There's really not a good view, just loose parts, or assembled hunk with slightly-hidden circlip groove.

036 DOES have a decomp = SCORE!!!!

Thanks for the feedback. I just can't get this out of my head - it should be much more intuitive than this is... It's going to drive me nuts until I get it right.
 
Ok I think the so called plate your referring to is the washer that Fish is referring to. The big platelike washer was used to protect the oiler assembly from an exploding clutch. I don't have the IPL here at work to verify the part your talking about. Was it completely assembled when you got it as far as the clutch and clutch drum being installed?

Yes fish was referring to teh clutch drums for the 026/260 pro's with the adj. oiler. The 024 never came with an adj oiler.
 
It was assembled, I reassembled in the same order in which I found it. Perhaps it was goofy from the get-go...

Is the clutch supposed to bottom-out against the oiler? Purely a friction-drive? Does the oiler worm bottom against some surface on the crank, otherwise there would be some thrust bearing needed, right? Seems that for this systyem to work, the oiler drive (worm) would be pinced securely between a journal on the inboard end of the crank and the clutch, making it esentially a one-piece rotating mass - crank/worm/clutch - thus the oiler would be crank-driven, not clutch-driven.

aaaagghh!
 
Yes, it's a direct drive. everything is clamped by the clutch. On the 024, it pumps oil whenever the crank rotates.


Look at the IPL, then ID every part. The clutch spyder and shoes will have a number on them, like 1121/06 The "06" is the last 2 digits of the part number. If it has the wrong spyder, you will have fit issues.
 
I finally dug back into the 024. Ithink Lake hit it on the head. The spider is marked "1129" which a search here suggests it is for an MS200 machine. The other parts (spring steel) are marked "1121" so a mismatch seems obvious.

That make sense? Mabe I need a new clutch.

OH! And the shim washer that fits behind the clutch has witnes marks/staining that do NOT match the existing clutch spider.
 
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