stihl cold start and warm start setting

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churchie

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Here's a real dumb-a question. My saw was warm so I didn't think it needed the full choke (cold choke) setting. So I gripped the handle & trigger and tried to move it from the cold start to the warm start setting. It wouldn't budge. So I tried a little harder and then I heard something give inside. So I popped the casing open and saw that the throttle linkage came out of a plastic 'groove' (orange plastic that looks like letter 'C' in second picture). Nothing looks sheared off or broken at all, this saw (stihl ms290) is brand new practically (less than 4 tanks ran thru it).

Did I screw this up, what should I do. Thanks, I just paid this off and don't want to make it worse. I'm taking it to the dealer tomorrow but I don't want to get talked into something I don't need.
 
Just pop it back into the clip, should be fine.

I reckon you had the choke lever on 'high idle/half choke', from there you need to blip the throttle to move it up to the 'run/warm start' position, if you try and move it by hand, what happens is just what happened, it won't budge and the linkage can get popped out of its holder if you try and force it.

Run through the whole thing slowly without starting the saw and see just how it all works!
 
This is more of a problem of moving from cold to warm once it 'pops' (full choke totally cold) or wanting to put 'master control lever' direct on warm start.

I guess the question, more simply put, is once I press throttle and trigger interlock, should I be able to move the master control lever easily in any direction and to any setting (normal / warm / cold settings).

Thanks, I definitely think the throttle linkage needs looked at.
 
On my MS460, I have to hit the interlock, pull the trigger, and then I can put the saw in cold start choke. I then release the throttle and interlock and flip the choke back to warm start.
 
On my MS460, I have to hit the interlock, pull the trigger, and then I can put the saw in cold start choke. I then release the throttle and interlock and flip the choke back to warm start.

Thanks for the replies, that's what I thought, sounds like something wrong with el-cheapo plastic setup
 
On my MS460, I have to hit the interlock, pull the trigger, and then I can put the saw in cold start choke. I then release the throttle and interlock and flip the choke back to warm start.

Thanks for the replies, that's what I thought, sounds like something wrong with el-cheapo plastic setup

What ckthorp said...

And then you have to blip the throttle to get the lever to jump up to the run position, if you try to force it manually from warm start to run you are going to have problems with the linkage.
 
Well the dealer nailed in an instant, see that metal flange at the back, it should be on top of the throttle linkage and not on the bottom. Nothing wrong he said, totally blamed it on the plastic which seems to be more and more common even on pro grad (so he says). He adjusted it, bended back a little and lubed the linkage, works like a charm. Yep, I'm familiar with 'blip'ing from warm to normal, this was caused going from cold to warm setting. Thanks again for your input.
 

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