stacepaetzel
New Member
I am looking for a good site with specifications on the proper way to use a 90" tree spade.
Any help is appreciated!
Thanks!
Any help is appreciated!
Thanks!
tree spade specifications
- Thread starter stacepaetzel
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Don McQuilliams
ArboristSite Lurker
I recently used a tree spade to move a bunch of Sequoias from a freeway off-ramp to a roadside setting. Everything went pretty smooth, you need to make sure you have good access to the site, that the ground is not too hard (you will know as soon as you try to put the spade in) and that you pay proper attention to centering the spade around the tree.
Another good idea that the spade company came up with was to insert pre-cut pieces of plywood on top of the root ball and to use these to hold the tree in place while driving down the road. make sure you have a pilot truck following the spade because they drop lots of debris.
If you have trouble putting the spade in the ground, try getting it in as far as you can, pulling it out and add water to soften up the area. If your moving large tree, make sure to tie up the limbs before moving it, some pruning may be necessary.
All and all, it's a realitivly simple process, just call somebody that has one and have them do a site visit before you authorize any work. -Good luck
Another good idea that the spade company came up with was to insert pre-cut pieces of plywood on top of the root ball and to use these to hold the tree in place while driving down the road. make sure you have a pilot truck following the spade because they drop lots of debris.
If you have trouble putting the spade in the ground, try getting it in as far as you can, pulling it out and add water to soften up the area. If your moving large tree, make sure to tie up the limbs before moving it, some pruning may be necessary.
All and all, it's a realitivly simple process, just call somebody that has one and have them do a site visit before you authorize any work. -Good luck
John Paul Sanborn
Above average climber
All i know is that the nurserymans assoc has a standard of 1 foot of ball for every caliper inch. This is the bare minimum. Trees that put a lot of investment into early root structure, like bur oak, should have a larger ratio.
also ISA recomends sacrafication of the pit to break up any glazing of clay soil.
also ISA recomends sacrafication of the pit to break up any glazing of clay soil.
Matt Follett
ArboristSite Operative
Tree Spades
Hi, what's your main question, how to use the machine, how to dig the tree, or what size of tree, etc.
Ran large tree spades for years, All Vermeer units, but most are similar, your 90", sounds like Big John? maybe.
Some of the big concerns are mentioned, hard ground and rocks (big ones) can make life difficult, most spades are equipped with water nozzles and a tank to help out with this.Other tree concerns include soil types between growing site and planitn site, time of year, type of tree and so on.
Start obiviously by digging you recieving hole. (where the tree is to go) start by setting all the spades down about and inch or two into the ground. Then go around the set one at a time, digging just untill the bed frame lifts, then release the pressure, let the frame sit back down onto the ground, and go to the next one. Continue untill you are finised the hole. Lift out the plug, Now as was mentioned the spade can drop alot of material, if you are traveling on the road... You SHOULD use what is referred to as the diaper, it is a tarp which fits over the spade and collects any material that falls in the journey. Rocks in cars windsheilds only lead to big trouble with the Authorities for not 'securing your load'
dump the plug by the last tree you will move, that way you can fill the hole back in.
wrap around the tree that is the first move, Tie up conifers, so as not to damage the branches as you back in, on bigger ones this can be a real pain (particlarlly blue spruce, ouch!!)
Caution digging the tree, remember when the bed lifted as you dug the recieving hole, well every time you disturb the root ball, you are breaking of the very fine fiberous roots, (bad when you will be removing 80% of them already!) so dig slowly and gently, a tree's survival rate can depend on the operator! This includes once you have the tree dug, banging the truck down bumpy, nasty roads is going to only further losen the root ball, breaking more of those roots!
THe scarification of the reciving hole is very important! in clay soils you can create a pot which holds alot of water by the glazing actino of the spade movin through the soil. Take a rake and run it up and down the sides of the receiving hole, breaking the glaze.
Now plant the tree, slowing lifing up on one spade at a time, leveling with the stabalizer controls and the bed frame controls as you go. Don't push down on the root ball with the bed, as this will crush those roots we're trying to save.
There you go, it's in the ground, ...now you have to soil it it, this is VERY VERY important as roots will not move through open air spaces well, you need to flush soil down between the cracks with water untill all the voids are filled.
Now go dig the next hole and put the siol back where the fisrt tree came from, continue until you are done!!
Dig times vary from site to site, and the limiting factor is distance between planing hole and tree site. The most I every move in a day was 48 trees, the least was one over three days, travel to recieving hole and back one day, tree the next, plant it the next!!
Hope that get you started!
Hi, what's your main question, how to use the machine, how to dig the tree, or what size of tree, etc.
Ran large tree spades for years, All Vermeer units, but most are similar, your 90", sounds like Big John? maybe.
Some of the big concerns are mentioned, hard ground and rocks (big ones) can make life difficult, most spades are equipped with water nozzles and a tank to help out with this.Other tree concerns include soil types between growing site and planitn site, time of year, type of tree and so on.
Start obiviously by digging you recieving hole. (where the tree is to go) start by setting all the spades down about and inch or two into the ground. Then go around the set one at a time, digging just untill the bed frame lifts, then release the pressure, let the frame sit back down onto the ground, and go to the next one. Continue untill you are finised the hole. Lift out the plug, Now as was mentioned the spade can drop alot of material, if you are traveling on the road... You SHOULD use what is referred to as the diaper, it is a tarp which fits over the spade and collects any material that falls in the journey. Rocks in cars windsheilds only lead to big trouble with the Authorities for not 'securing your load'
dump the plug by the last tree you will move, that way you can fill the hole back in.
wrap around the tree that is the first move, Tie up conifers, so as not to damage the branches as you back in, on bigger ones this can be a real pain (particlarlly blue spruce, ouch!!)
Caution digging the tree, remember when the bed lifted as you dug the recieving hole, well every time you disturb the root ball, you are breaking of the very fine fiberous roots, (bad when you will be removing 80% of them already!) so dig slowly and gently, a tree's survival rate can depend on the operator! This includes once you have the tree dug, banging the truck down bumpy, nasty roads is going to only further losen the root ball, breaking more of those roots!
THe scarification of the reciving hole is very important! in clay soils you can create a pot which holds alot of water by the glazing actino of the spade movin through the soil. Take a rake and run it up and down the sides of the receiving hole, breaking the glaze.
Now plant the tree, slowing lifing up on one spade at a time, leveling with the stabalizer controls and the bed frame controls as you go. Don't push down on the root ball with the bed, as this will crush those roots we're trying to save.
There you go, it's in the ground, ...now you have to soil it it, this is VERY VERY important as roots will not move through open air spaces well, you need to flush soil down between the cracks with water untill all the voids are filled.
Now go dig the next hole and put the siol back where the fisrt tree came from, continue until you are done!!
Dig times vary from site to site, and the limiting factor is distance between planing hole and tree site. The most I every move in a day was 48 trees, the least was one over three days, travel to recieving hole and back one day, tree the next, plant it the next!!
Hope that get you started!
