using pex on sidearm

[zsteinmetz]

Ok I cannot for the life of me sweat pipe for s**t. I get a leak everytime so i give up. Would it be ok to use pex when attaching my sidarm to my water heater. I used brass pipe fittings coming out of the water heater and attach pex to copper with sharkbite fittings. I cannot see why it wouldnt work.

 

[rx7145]

Thats funny. I always have leaks at my pex and no leaks when I sweat a joint.

Pex should work fine with the sidearm.

 

[WVwoodsman]

I don't think that would be a problem. I have used Sharkbite's throughout my owb and have not had any problems. My owb dealer recommended them to me and when he installed all my pumps and lines on my owb that is what he used. As for sweating connections, it can be frustrating. You have to clean the copper pipe/connectors thoroughly with steel wool or fine sand paper then apply flux, after doing this fire up your torch and heat the connection well, then apply your solder and the flux should draw it in. I find that every time I solder I get better and you will too, it just takes a little practice.

 

[zsteinmetz]

Im using old lead solder. Not on my domestic but the boiler. Could old lead solder be the problem?

 

[PA Plumber]

Im using old lead solder. Not on my domestic but the boiler. Could old lead solder be the problem?

Lots of folks have asked about the "secret" to soldering. No secret really.
1. Clean pipe and clean fittings.
2. Use petroleum based flux (especially for this, not a potable use system) on the pipe and in the fitting. A light coating on both will do just fine.

Old lead solder has a much lower melting temp and should be easier to "flow" into the joint(s).

If heating 1" copper, or larger, apply the blue part of the flame to the "seating" part of the joint and keep the solder and torch on the same side; heat until you start to see the "green" tint to the flame, then apply solder and work the torch and solder around the joint. If using 3/4" copper/brass fittings, or smaller, I usually heat on the opposite side of where I am applying the solder.

With lead solder, the "flow" temp should be well before the "green" tint required by "lead free" solder.

Hope this is at least a tiny bit helpful.

If you are using a propane style of hand held torch, the lead solder will be much to your advantage.

 

[zsteinmetz]

Another question. Does it matter on the sidearm where i hook up the supply and return. On the top or bottom?

 

[troy3300]

I have not heard if there is a preferred way to run the water threw the exchanger (top to bottom ). I have read to make sure the fresh water and the boiler water are running in opposite directions. It will make for better heat transfer.

 

[zsteinmetz]

so the domestic water naturally wants to rise through the sidearm because it is heated. So I would want the supply on top for the best heat transfer??????

 

[troy3300]

I am going to run mine on top (domestic water). That seems the logical way to me theoretically.

 

[Mister Twister]

so the domestic water naturally wants to rise through the sidearm because it is heated. So I would want the supply on top for the best heat transfer??????

I don't hink it matters much. My central boiler example showed the feed in the bottom of the sidearm and the return out of the top. That is the way mine is hooked up and it works fine. I used the fin enhanced sidearm from
http://www.ctwoodfurnace.com/

Good luck with the install.