Washboard surface when milling

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Forgive me for asking what seems like a silly question, but with the low profile chains (Stihl picco), does one need to change the rim sprocket and roller tip to acomodate the 0.365 pitch or can I still use a 3/8" tip and rim sprocket? I ask because I see they advertise it as 3/8" picco, but qualify it as 0.365. Are these close enough to overlap, or are they really to far apart... 4 drive links wrapped around rim sprocket does add up to 0.040 difference, and even though I design buildings several hundred feet long (with a bunch of other folks), that seems like a lot in this application.

Glen, I don't know where you get the 0.365 from?

From the Stihl website
PMMC3 Pico is 3/8" gauge with a 0.043" bar groove
PMC3 Pico is 0.325" gauge with 0.050" bar groove.

You will have to change the bar to suit the groove and sprocket.

I use 3/8 050 low profile oregon chain (#91) on my small mill - I was going to go for the 0.325" but my sprocket was and bar were in good condition and the 3/8 works great and so I'm sticking with that for the moment.
 
Hi Smithie,

Yup, I've filed the rakers to the depth of the gauge. Maybe a two thousandths lower, but fairly even overall.

Bob,

In this link, Lakeside was referencing 0.365 in this thread... post 10. But later on he references 0.325 (and 0.365 on the 0.043 gauge only)... maybe I should have waited for his updated post.
http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=81015

Thanks for setting me straight.

Maybe the Oregon 91 is the best option for me to try for now.

I'm really thinking that the bar is the cause of all this. It came on a saw that looked like it went through a war, and it didn't look much better itself. I've got a new one on order, and I'll let you all know when it arrives, and I put it through the paces. A coworker has a tree to come down.. about 30" at the base splitting into a V about 3 feet up, then each of those branches split into V's about 4 feet later. Hopefully some nice crotch wood. Not sure what kind of tree yet. Of course, this 24" bar isn't going to be too much help there.

Thanks again for all the wisdom.
 
Anyone ever try milling with a square grind? Got a ~26" white oak log 18 feet long I am thinking of giving a try.

Square chain leaves a much nicer finish on the sides of cross cuts, maybe would do the same ripping. How well it will stay sharp is another queston though.
 
Anyone ever try milling with a square grind? Got a ~26" white oak log 18 feet long I am thinking of giving a try.

Square chain leaves a much nicer finish on the sides of cross cuts, maybe would do the same ripping. How well it will stay sharp is another queston though.

It would go faster in softwood,don't know about oak though.It might be too aggressive in oak.I also think it would leave a rougher cut as it would be going through the wood faster taking more of a cut.I would use a big saw too.Let us know how it works.:popcorn:
 
Maybe next weekend, looks like it's going to be nothing but arc building weather this weekend.

Either be 066bb or 088, would have to put the 088 back to working configuration though. Curently have a cut off head jug with pipe on it, I'm sure it would mill fast like that, but I don't think it would mill for long.
 
The weather is pretty nasty here in michigan as well.:mad: I got alot of beams to mill,but will have to wait now.I guess i can start building that dreadnaught guitar while i'm waiting.I can work on the neck.The humidity is too high to do the box right know.Looks like Tuesday's the earliest i can get out to mill again. Mark
 
It would go faster in softwood,don't know about oak though.It might be too aggressive in oak.I also think it would leave a rougher cut as it would be going through the wood faster taking more of a cut.I would use a big saw too.Let us know how it works.:popcorn:

I have 2 square cut chains for my 42" bar. I reserve them for softwoods because they go blunt too quickly on Aussie hardwood. They cut real fast at the beginning of a slab but by mid slab they are no faster than semi chisel and by the end they are much slower.
 
Wish I had the time to work on instruments, have a f5 mandolin just started and the image of SJ 200 rib buster done in curly maple and either wenge or lacewood with some purple heart bindings and lots of pearl. Wood and pieces sit buy the work bench and stare at me quite often... but I have to get a bunch of saws fixed and tweaked first.

Grinding square there is quite a bit of flexibility to toughen up some of the angles, so wonder how it will make out on our hardwoods, I know our hardwood is like balsa compared to that semi petrified stuff half a millenium old that grows in the outback on three drops of water a year and maybe in a good year get two kangaroo turds for fertilizer.
 
TW,Did you find the bb kit piston skirts shorter than a stock one? Just wandering before i make the plunge for one of mine. Mark
 

Latest posts

Back
Top