What do y’all do when this happens to your bar?
- Thread starter MFV
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You need to "dress the bar' - this means grinding the burrs or edges away.
To do this you can use a flat file (bar edges are hard so you will need a new file)
Out the bar in a vice and stand at one end of the bar place the file at right angles to the bar and grab the file with left and right hands and edges apull the file towards you in a smooth downward action.
It is really important to keep the file level and make sure the bar edges end up at accurate right angles to the bar flat - it not the saw will cut a curve.
A right angle is ensured using a dressing tool like this home made job which rides square on the bar edge..
If the bar gap is splayed the chain will rock over to one side and the gap should be brought back into a regular gap. Don't use a hammer or it will chip the edges - uses bar gap narrowing tool.
BTW I have put a large (9") grinding disc into a table saw and used the sides to grind off bar burs. This works really well because the bar can be laid flat on the table and the bar edges made to gently kiss the disc in a sweeping motion so as not to grind a "flat" section. Peace with and old bar.
To do this you can use a flat file (bar edges are hard so you will need a new file)
Out the bar in a vice and stand at one end of the bar place the file at right angles to the bar and grab the file with left and right hands and edges apull the file towards you in a smooth downward action.
It is really important to keep the file level and make sure the bar edges end up at accurate right angles to the bar flat - it not the saw will cut a curve.
A right angle is ensured using a dressing tool like this home made job which rides square on the bar edge..
If the bar gap is splayed the chain will rock over to one side and the gap should be brought back into a regular gap. Don't use a hammer or it will chip the edges - uses bar gap narrowing tool.
BTW I have put a large (9") grinding disc into a table saw and used the sides to grind off bar burs. This works really well because the bar can be laid flat on the table and the bar edges made to gently kiss the disc in a sweeping motion so as not to grind a "flat" section. Peace with and old bar.
Thanks I will start studying up on this. This is a good bar and cuts well I want to keep it that way.
If your handy with a disk grinder you can do it with a light and a square
This works well. Cheap, practical, convenient. Portable!
Oregon makes a somewhat similar file, but it is junk by comparison.
https://www.treestuff.com/pferd-universal-bar-conditioner/
And... Treestuff is one of our sponsors.
Oregon makes a somewhat similar file, but it is junk by comparison.
https://www.treestuff.com/pferd-universal-bar-conditioner/
And... Treestuff is one of our sponsors.
The bar rail closer is another story. They are getting pretty hard to find. Here is one, and at a pretty reasonable price:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/294431789210
https://www.ebay.com/itm/294431789210
poleframer
ArboristSite Operative
I dress my bars with a belt sander, clamp it upsidedown in a vise, and run the bar on it perpendicular a few times, makes quick work of the job.
How exactly do you do that?
I don't see very many asymmetric bars. Certainly not on any milling setups.
I’m not sure how I did it. Everything was working fine. Something must’ve got across Waze.
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poleframer
ArboristSite Operative
I mean clamp the belt sander upside down, so the belt is facing up. I put it in a woodworking vise that opens up enough.
I have a 36x6" belt sander that has a fence but before I had that, I did this.
Good idea thanks
Vertical belt sanders work best. Then draw file to smooth the rails.
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