Whats your main pump GPM

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Paso One

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I have been experimenting swapping around pumps and heat exchangers.

Seems like there is a very wide range of pumps out there on the differant boilers.

I noticed a large increase in the flow of hot water with my 3 speed pump.

The specs show 35 gpm on the top speed setting compared with my other pump putting out only 22 gpm.

What is your GPM ??
 
I have two Taco 007 pumps running upstairs and downstairs loops. They are putting out 20 gpm.
 
That is a question I had. How far can you go with a pump like the Taco 007 before you have to move up?
 
That is what I am trying to find out.

Some guys have OWB 75 ft from house and have 1 inch line and using a small pump.

Yet the next guy has 1 1/2 and a large pump at the OWB

I hope lots of guys chime in with what they got.
 
Owb

I have 4 Taco 007s (the James Bond pump) on my interior zones. Also a 007 for the water-to-water HX loop. However on the OWB, (65' from house 1" lines) my dealer said a 009 was needed. No problems last 7 days of weather in the teens.:clap:
 
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I have a B&G PL-36 (about 22gpm at 20ft of head) and a 009 for the house loop. Also have a 007 for a boiler wrap around pump.
 
I use an older single speed cast iron Grunfos 15-42 with about 9 feet of head, I guess the output is about 9GPM. It feeds 2 water to air exchangers 1 water to water HX and one side arm on the DHW. It goes thru the pump to a manifold then feeds the heat exchangers. This is the only pump on the whole system and has been used for the last three years with outside temps down to -16f.
 
I use Taco 009's on the 2 primary loops, Taco 007's on the HX secondary loops. Pump GPM depends on how much head your'e up against...rule of thumb: 6' head/100' pipe.
 
I have a Shaver 165 90' from the house and 140' from the garage. I have the stock Armstrong Astro 30 (1/25 HP) on the garage, feeding three old cast iron radiators. On the house loop, feeding a heat exchanger, I have a Grundfos UP-26 (1/6 HP). Originally I had the pumps reversed and wasn't getting enough heat to the house. When I switched to the current setup, there was an amazing difference. According to the guys at Shaver, radiators are free flowing and don't need much pump, while heat exchangers offer more resistance to flow, requiring a bigger pump. Also have a Taco 007 on the DHW loop.
 
Main Pump GPM

I use a taco 007 as my main pump between my OWB and house, that distance is ~200 feet with no head.

I use a grundfos of the same size to run about 60 feet to my shop.

No problems pumping, only problems with pump longevity.
 
I ended up going with a UPS26-99 Grundfos. I like the idea of being able to play around with the 3 speeds. I was pretty worked up trying to figure out which pump to use and I decided it would be better error on the too big side than figure out after the install that it was too small. I also had the plumbing sales reps telling me I needed stainless or brass for the open system, which had me all concerned about that. After pricing those in the larger pump, and after my install budget was already approaching $500-$600 more than I had planned, I decided the heck with it and did what 99% of the people do and went with a cast iron pump and hope the corrosion inhibitor additive does it's job. I've only had it hooked up for 2 days and I am just leaving it on medium speed for now. I will have to wait for colder weather to really see what difference the speeds make on my return temps. That whole deal with trying to figure head pressure will drive you crazy.
 
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head pressure

I short-hand referred to head pressure, simply as head. My pump is located at the same height as my boiler's water jacket, so I don't have any head pressure to deal with, not exactly anyway. In other words, I'm not trying to raise the water above the level of the pump, so there is no weight of water pushing down, fighting the pump.

I found a really good explanation of head pressure and some other considerations, of all places, at an aquarium site http://www.aquariumpros.com/articles/headpress.shtml I would have never guessed that. They covered the concepts pretty well.

The pumps I've run into for moving water are centrifugal type pumps, which do not put out a particular volume of water like a positive displacement pump. Centrifugal pumps provide less flow as resistance to flow increases. Positive displacement pumps can deal with a lot more head pressure, but they don't deal so well with debris, which might be why I haven't seen them used in heating? I am no heating expert, that's for sure.

Has anybody ever rigged a belt drive or some kind of drive to connect a different motor to a circulating pump? That thought occurs to me as I replace my third taco cartridge... I suppose I could get a "real" pump if I want to pay for it; but I don't want to do that. Where's the fun in buying something that you could make?

Having to do with the last post, It seems to me that my efficiency is better with less flow than it was when I had more flow. None of this is scientific in any way, it just seems like it to me. I suppose it all depends on the specifics of each system, but I would love to know a little more on the theories of flow rate in a hot water system.
 
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