Thread: Hults Bruk Arvika 5 Star Axe grinding

Happy New Year to all. I got a new Arvika 5 Star axe from Doc Jastad. I reallylike the axe and the size of it, but it needs to be ground. I tackled it with an angle grinder and 50 grit, and I have thinned the cheeks quite a bit. I want it for an all around axe to use on frozen softwood and the occasional piece of hardwood. How much of a compromise in performace do you need to make to get an all around axe? I'm comparing it to my Baileys Competition/work axe and an Oxhead Champion on the performance side, and to a 3.5 lbs Bahco single bit on the work side. Right now, I have thinned out the Arvika quite a bit, but it still doesn't penetrate like even the 3.5 lbs Bahco. If anyone has any tips to offer on grinding to get penetration and still throw a chip that would be great. Also, how do you achieve a good balance for an all around axe? Or with this axe should I set it up for softwood and frozen softwood and not try for an all around axe?

What are your primary/secondary bevel angles? It looks WAY thinned, to the point that it would just stick tight and not throw any chips. The only time I ever filed an axe like that was when I wanted to use the axe for underbucking with a crosscut saw. Used that way, flat cheeks stick and hold in the log better than a axe profiled for chopping.

AT thanks for the reply. The first 1/16 inch is 30 degrees; the primary bevel is convex and about 20 degrees on average. The profile is also convex from the heel to toe to about 1 inch back from the edge. I was thinking of giving it a bit more of a banana grind, but right now I don't want to go too much thinner. Are you involved in the trail crew that has the axe grinding and saw sharpening info? I got some good info from the Blue and White trail crew page. Thanks, Joe Pete

That's my crew. Our axe guy does the primaries at 20 and the secondaries at 35 on his Tuatahi, and I follow that fairly close on my working axes. I looked at his Tuatahi jig and came up with the bent bar idea for draw filing. It works pretty well on most axes, though some have such hard steel the file just skates across the blade.That's when a belt sander is your friend.

My secondary bevel is a lot closer to 1/32 or less. Sounds like you have decent angles on your axe. How much metal did you take off? The Tuatahi website has some decent discussion on grinds though most of what I chop is hardwood.

Thanks for the angle info. It must be fun working on a crew using traditional tools. When I was a kid we did a lot of trail work with bow saws and axes, but when I turned 13 we switched to chainsaws. This Arvika axe is made out of very hard steel and a file barely works at all. I used a grinder, diamond file, and stone to get to the point I am at now. I am going to chop with it tomorrow and figure out what do do next. I will probably lower the angles on the primary bevel and see what that does. Here is a link to my video of chopping with some of my other axes:

chopping 001.MOV - YouTube

You obviously practice a lot. I'm not a timbersports chopper, but like to see how they file their saws and axes, as it helps us put a keen edge on our trail tools. We do have to adjust the angles though since grinds that work great in softwood will fail in hardwood. Also, the steel in each axe is a little different. A bevel that works on one axe will chip or fold on another.

The guy that grinds my axes uses a knifemaker's industrial belt sander to profile and polish the head and bevels. I, in turn, file his crosscut saws.

Out on the trail, you never know what you'll find. Green poplar, frozen hemlock, bone-dry oak, etc. Same saws and axes have to work in each species. Biggest mistake I see people make when chopping wood is not cutting a properly angled notch. They swing straight down across the log or at very steep angles over and over until they tire out and start swinging wildly. You need to cut a decently wide notch if you want to pop chips.

Hey AT Sawyer, were you working trail crew in '96? I did a thru-hike that year, might have crossed paths!
-John

Barely. I joined in late '96 after hurricane Fran ripped up the east coast. Grabbed my little 021 and had at it on the AT. There was a blowdown about every ten feet for miles and miles. Big trees, freshly fallen and full of energy and every kind of bind imaginable. I sure got to know my saw and was impressed by how well such a little Stihl could cut big trees. Didn't stop me from getting an 036 the next year though.

Yeah, by the time we got to Maine, Fran had made the fords pretty interesting! 10 straight days of rain, then sun when we climbed Katahdin. Sometimes you just get lucky!

Thanks for the continued feedback. Here is a video of the Arvika chopping. The first axe is the Arvika, then a 3.5lbs Bahco, and the last is my Oxhead Champion which is about 5.5lbs. The Arvika seems like it's stubbing a toe into the wood instead of penetrating.

Chopping knotty pine - YouTube

Forgot to add, the wood I am chopping is frozen White Pine and it has one big knot through the center and a couple small ones on top. I try to sharpen my axes for some durability.

I'm not a timbersport chopper, so I can't really comment on the underhand chop, but when I use my smaller axes on the trail, I don't start with such a big notch. I start smaller and widen as I go. That said, the Arvika didn't seem to penetrate as well as it should have. Do you take a slight slicing motion with your axe just as it enters the cut? I find that I can feel the travel of my axe better when doing that. I can't tell from the video if you're doing that.

I really like the underhand chop. It is a lot of fun. I grew up using an axe, but now just split a few cords of wood with a 4 lb Fiskars plastic maul. I'm trying to learn how to get my axes to perform better, so I bought the Arvika because I knew it would need lots of grinding. I might have to send it to a pro if I can't figure this out. I'm glad you can see the difference and it's not just me imagining it. I do try and break my wrists to give that last bit of power into the cut. I am not always consistent with that though. How often are you out working on the trail? Setting up some underhand blocks is a good way to get some exercise and keep your eyes and hands tuned up. My son and I chopped for a half hour this evening just for fun. What type of axe do you have? Do you have a picture from the top showing the profile? Thanks, Joe Pete

I get out on the trail about once a week. The AT's about an hour's drive from my house. I'm actually the saw guy, so I don't have a lot of chopping pics. Given the odd angles and variety of wood, we don't do much "standing block" chopping even though that would be the most efficient way (other then sawing). We tend to do a hybrid chop, taking turns on opposite sides of the tree. After about a dozen good whacks I pass the axe across to the other guy. Trading off keeps us from getting winded and sloppy. Axes include Tuatahi, Granfors, HB, True Temper...whatever we feel like bringing. I'm partial to the Jersey pattern.P1012666.JPGP1012717.JPGSmooth edge.jpg

Those are great pics. I really like the second one. You can tell the axes are sharp and that you and your partner were taking very accurate and consistent swings. Nice work. It would be nice to get away from the scream of a chainsaw sometimes, but still produce some work. It probably wouldn't take you too much time to turn into a competitive underhand chopper.

I've got a Keesteel Timberman heading my way, I'll post up some pics when it gets here.