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Hot Saws
Saw Building 101
660 clone port timing numbers for milling (torque)
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<blockquote data-quote="huramentzefix" data-source="post: 7935615" data-attributes="member: 188049"><p>I have just received my 22$ big bore cylinder kit.</p><p>when I push the piston all the way in then I have I tiny gap in the exhaust port.</p><p>With correct squish that gap would equalize out.</p><p></p><p>I was thinking about lowering the cylinder by about 2mm so that I have the skirt covering the exhaust by 2mm.</p><p>Is less also OK or is even more required?</p><p>It seems that there is plating till to the top but the hone marks don't go all the way up, even not in current condition.</p><p></p><p>I haven't taken the numbers yet, but by dropping the jug I will also reduce blow-down?</p><p></p><p>What would be an advisable piston if I want to go down that route?</p><p></p><p>Numbers will follow as soon as I am not using the chainsaw anymore for my current project.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="huramentzefix, post: 7935615, member: 188049"] I have just received my 22$ big bore cylinder kit. when I push the piston all the way in then I have I tiny gap in the exhaust port. With correct squish that gap would equalize out. I was thinking about lowering the cylinder by about 2mm so that I have the skirt covering the exhaust by 2mm. Is less also OK or is even more required? It seems that there is plating till to the top but the hone marks don't go all the way up, even not in current condition. I haven't taken the numbers yet, but by dropping the jug I will also reduce blow-down? What would be an advisable piston if I want to go down that route? Numbers will follow as soon as I am not using the chainsaw anymore for my current project. [/QUOTE]
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