Stihl 261cm, I need some help!

[Stihlproincky]

If it was mine it would have got a new cylinder, surely y'all understand that I have to do what the customer wants, even if its not the right way. If I told him $350 he'd balked and said bad things about me, just trying to preserve my reputation, at the same token it's not gonna last very long as it is.

 

[Stihlproincky]

I really appreciate y'alls input, advice and patience. Offered him $150 for it but he wants it fixed. Just trying to suit him.

 

[Stihlproincky]

Should've turned this one down I guess, but I started and now I've got to finish.
Please bear with me.

 

[lone wolf]

This is the saw I posted a couple weeks ago! https://www.arboristsite.com/threads/burn-up-ms261c-value.373698/post-8228364. Oem piston btw. Cleaned the cylinder up, but this guy wants it fixed cheap!

Do a comp test.

 

[lone wolf]

Should've turned this one down I guess, but I started and now I've got to finish.
Please bear with me.

That's how you get good!

 

[Stihlproincky]

That's how you get good!

Thought I was good till this! Lol

 

[huskydave]

That piston is toast, wow. I would be worried about the crank bearings. The cylinder may be ovaled out a lot after that much heat. Re-using it is not wise imho. The popping could be an exhaust backfire or the ignition timing may be off slightly. Those are the only things I could think of that would do it. The saw may have a bad air leak somewhere and its trying to compensate by feeding it too much fuel. That saw got really hot, I would inspect the clutch for heat damage/stress, sometimes they turn blue when mr homeowner runs the pro saws with a dull chain.

 

[Stihlproincky]

So guys, would it be honest to say the cost of fixing it outweighs the cost of a new comparable saw? I know it's fixable but it'll cost (for oem parts $350-$400+ labor) maybe try to talk him in to buying a new saw. If y'all think it's honest?

 

[huskydave]

Best thing to do is be very honest. I usually say to a customer, you have a couple options I can fix this properly but it will cost x amount of dollars and take x amount of time but it will be reliable after the work and you can trust it or you can buy a new piece of equipment for x amount of dollars and then I would say if this were mine I would do this and tell them the truth. I usually give friends and family 2 hours free labor and anything after that I start charging for my labor and I give them a break on the parts cost. If I don't think something is worth a lot of money and it needs a bunch of parts. I will take a non refundable deposit before touching it. Some people will pay to have a sentimental item fixed properly. The other way to go is find a good used item for them and just charge a small finders fee but again tell them this item is used and I can't tell you how long it will last, it could last 10 hours or 10 years.

 

[PV Hiker]

You offered him $150 for it, you can offer a discount equal or less off a new saw. Maybe tempted after using the above posted advice.

 

[ZeroJunk]

One thing that will definitely shear a key is if it is hydrolocked . You make a good pull, the fuel goes up the transfers, and locks the thing dead and the flywheel keeps going. See it with some regularity on blowers. Would explain the hard pull.

Wouldn't explain the scoring though.

 

[lone wolf]

Thought I was good till this! Lol

Well, the difference is if you figure it out or not!

 

[Stihlproincky]

Hey guys, so I got this tester to test that 261 we were talking about, so I hooked it up pulled the saw 10-12 times and it said 60psi. So out of curiosity I checked some of my other saws and they only when to 60psi, I did check the gauge with my air compressor to verify it worked. So is this the wrong tool for the job? Or am I doing something wrong? Tried pulling the saws at different speeds too.

 

[huskydave]

Mityvac MV5520 is a good one that won't break the bank. The MV8500 is a good leak down tester also. I don't have experience with the cheaper ones. It might be good but I can't really say for sure. My experience with compression testers is they all read slightly different but should be close unless you have a leak at a fitting or from the hose. Matco Snap-on and Mac make excellent testers (more accurate) but they are pricey.

 

[Stihlproincky]

Do a comp test.

OK, think I got the tester figured. Tested 4 times got about 90psi every time.

 

[huskydave]

90 isn't great. They are around 170-180PSI when new.

 

[Stihlproincky]

90 isn't great. They are around 170-180PSI when new.

That's what I thought, even used it should be 130-150 right?

 

[thompsoncustom]

Does you compression tester have a Schrader valve in the end of it where it screws into the spark plug hole? That is a must for testing these small engines not gonna work if it doesn't. If it does pull it out and see what color the band on it is and it probably isn't the right one for small engines anyways.

 

[Stihlproincky]

Does you compression tester have a Schrader valve in the end of it where it screws into the spark plug hole? That is a must for testing these small engines not gonna work if it doesn't. If it does pull it out and see what color the band on it is and it probably isn't the right one for small engines anyways.

No... it's got one up next to the gauge, any recommendations on where I can get the one I need?

 

[huskydave]

The one I listed has the valve, you need this for smaller 2 stroke engines. This eliminates the extra volume in the hose. (Mityvac MV5520) you can order online or get one at OReilly auto parts. Cost is around $50.00. The leak down tester (Mityvac 8500) does vaccuum and pressure, cost is around $90.00. They are decent quality and won't break the bank.