Stihl 038 Woes

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Sorry, I don't understand. I have a Tillotson carb. Is this an updated version of what I have and has a non-plastic metering level (whatever that is :laugh: ). And from what I gather from you and others, Bing carbs are better?
Yes, this is the Tilly model that was recommended here as a replacement for the Tilly with the plastic metering lever that some people have had problems with.
The bings are more sought after, but I’m not sure exactly why. I’ve heard the difference is negligible. The bing has a bigger Venturi than the Tilly that came on the 038av, but the same size as the Tilly that came on the 038 Super. The HE19A is a replacement for the super carb, so it should have the same size Venturi as a bing. Bings are more rare, and some just want everything to be oem specs, so if you were building an oem magnum, you would want the bing.
For $40 on Amazon, I bought the Tilly before I even received the saw, just so I know I could eliminate it from possible variables. The fact that I the saw I got had the original bing means I spend another $40 for an oem bing rebuild kit. If it give me problems, I’ll just through on the he19A. If the bing works, Amazon will take return. Hopefully I will get around to finishing in the next month.
 
Just to clarify, the Tilly carb in question does not have a plastic metering lever. It is a plastic plate with the metal metering lever in it.
Pictures are worth a thousand words.
As to points, you need to pull the flywheel or look for wires going under the flywheel. Points service was part of a tune up in the 70s and 80s.

Man am I feeling old.
 
I went through the 038 carb choices matrix in 2022 on a 038 mag I built, in my experiences I decided the inner carb throat diameter was important enough to effect performance. The largest id is the ms380 zama 1119-120-0605. Bing is the most common carb on 038's, the tilly with plastic metering plate is the least common. I was quite happy to be able to still source a new tilly carb that came with both a compensator and non compensator diaphragm covers. The new tilly and the 380 zama in my opinion are superior to the bing and installing the compensator setup brought the rpm down to idle faster and primed the carb with fuel giving the start "kick" at 2-3 pulls instead of 5+. I tried Chinese carb kits for the bing, the plastic lever was disproportioned in every kit I tried.
 
I have a 038M (since the 1990s) with a Bing and have done a number of 038S--->038M conversions.

The Tillys that are metal, and the Bings seem to run = on all the conversions. (not the smaller Tillys on 038)

On 038 saws always check the AV buffers (30 year old). If they are shot the intake boot and impluse line flex more than needed, and the plug wire can get pinched and make an intermittent short that will drive you crazy.

The plug wire issue came up on my first conversion and I was chasing carb problems and air leaks. It only shorted when leaning on it in the cut. That saw is still running nicely ~15 years later.
 
I have a 038M (since the 1990s) with a Bing and have done a number of 038S--->038M conversions.

The Tillys that are metal, and the Bings seem to run = on all the conversions. (not the smaller Tillys on 038)

On 038 saws always check the AV buffers (30 year old). If they are shot the intake boot and impluse line flex more than needed, and the plug wire can get pinched and make an intermittent short that will drive you crazy.

The plug wire issue came up on my first conversion and I was chasing carb problems and air leaks. It only shorted when leaning on it in the cut. That saw is still running nicely ~15 years later.
I haven't had a chance to get back to it yet. The intake boot was replaced recently (5 yrs?) when the tank was replaced. I pressurized it with air and while it was bellowed, used soapy water to check for leaks. No bubbles. I replaced the impulse line twice already. The spark plug wire is original. I don't think it's pinched any where, but I check.
 
I have a 038M (since the 1990s) with a Bing and have done a number of 038S--->038M conversions.

The Tillys that are metal, and the Bings seem to run = on all the conversions. (not the smaller Tillys on 038)

On 038 saws always check the AV buffers (30 year old). If they are shot the intake boot and impluse line flex more than needed, and the plug wire can get pinched and make an intermittent short that will drive you crazy.

The plug wire issue came up on my first conversion and I was chasing carb problems and air leaks. It only shorted when leaning on it in the cut. That saw is still running nicely ~15 years later.

Not to mention, the AV buffers are pretty inexpensive and easy to change
 
I haven't had a chance to get back to it yet. The intake boot was replaced recently (5 yrs?) when the tank was replaced. I pressurized it with air and while it was bellowed, used soapy water to check for leaks. No bubbles. I replaced the impulse line twice already. The spark plug wire is original. I don't think it's pinched any where, but I check.

The wire on mine looked OK. Check where it goes between tank and engine housings.
 
How did you know it was bad? Visual?
I did a quick look and I was wondering how the spark plug wire connects to the coil? Just pressed in?
View attachment 1180178View attachment 1180179

They are sort of pressed into the coil, there is the little rubber boot that fits over the wire and coil. There is a little metal pin/barb that makes contact with the core of the wire. This is the kit that I used on my 038, as well as multiple other saws that needed wires. There are cheaper options, but this one is a nice kit, and worth the extra couple of dollars imho.


https://www.ebay.com/itm/2318276919...WM8BfRNzkaG3CBfA+bNlXvobvR|tkp:Bk9SR5Tkr-73Yw
 
They are sort of pressed into the coil, there is the little rubber boot that fits over the wire and coil. There is a little metal pin/barb that makes contact with the core of the wire. This is the kit that I used on my 038, as well as multiple other saws that needed wires. There are cheaper options, but this one is a nice kit, and worth the extra couple of dollars imho.


https://www.ebay.com/itm/231827691996?itmmeta=01HYZEBY84JR9VBS93DMQ0AMDS&hash=item35fa01d9dc:g:DRkAAOSw6j1bnAD1&itmprp=enc:AQAJAAAA4N/CfEcxFUAmkjMSK2lwZMb2gdeedEa2Vy7Lz/vZKYgjjX1Ls+4HRqpmFdtjQeHyHVbYlP0Fh/ok8huanCACCEiFl7OPjJwUGpx6nY4vLr6tRNUkEMWAyXmoNIREGooKVR1xgCG9+4OvTUdEFhxlrcGR36QpNajUIZndRx0DxwPyH4nQ2SgqSm+q3dyNb1HjDvWTla9AiAykOTTKYpeS8jxrJpcveiONZlSKf3xkqMEl+XsydhKDxxT7JATWGX3b3IdtKIstF9vn/NUHMpWM8BfRNzkaG3CBfA+bNlXvobvR|tkp:Bk9SR5Tkr-73Yw

This ^^^^

Once you get the wire off the coil, there is a harpoon like barb sticking out. You jamb that into the core of the wire, then reseal/insulate the connection.

I just had to do wires on an old Ferguson tractor. I found a nice set of Standard Ignition copper core 7mm one's, for 8-cyl applications at Orielly's for <$20.

They come in straight and angle plug boots. The wire cores are tinned copper and quality insulation. It's a cut to fit kit. Strangely, the 4- and 6-cyl kits cost more than the 8-cyl?

TO-30 plug wires 2.jpg

I only needed 4 plug wires and the shortest ones were plenty long, so I've got an extra set of 4 new of the longest wires, and 4 lengths of cutoffs. The cutoffs are plenty long for saws and other small equipment

TO-30 plug wires leftovers.jpg

If I had bought the angle boot set, those would have made dandy wires for a saw, or could use the cutoffs and reuse the original rubber plug boot, and PITA to install plug wire insert terminal.

TO-30 plug wires.jpg
 

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