Ms261 alloy h limiter

David (saltas) · May 28, 2011

I read many threads and was confident I could do the job of removing the H Limiter tabs

The MS 261 has an Alloy H limiter and it comes out with a dry wall screw as described by many others on here.

Alloy was no problem just used a file instead.

MS261 alloy H Limiter with rib filed off

MS261 High speed adjustment screw whole internal rib.

Installed the Alloy H limiter and it still had the same range of motion as before ?

Pull it apart

MS261 High speed adjustment screw plastic insert still hitting internal Rib

So I removed the High speed adjustment screw

I placed in side the alloy H limiter and the two plastic tabs were proud of the surface of the alloy so I trimmed these with a sharp knife.

I installed the High speed adjustment screw and then inserted the H limiter after it and was able to get the adjustment I wanted.

I have set it at 13440 rpm WOT for now and will try it in some wood soon

young · May 28, 2011

good stuff

Rudolf73 · May 28, 2011

Rep for ya!

MCW · May 30, 2011

I ground out the whole alloy rib with a carbide bit on the Dremel. Your way looks easier

Also once it's run in recheck the rpm mate. My 261 seems to like sitting around 13,800rpm and seems to make the most power around this mark. Yours may be different of course.

Good stuff :cheers:

Stihl Crazy · May 30, 2011

Mine likes 13,800 also. Was 14,400 with limiters in place.

struggle · May 30, 2011

Rep sent. I did this to mine as well. Good on the pictures for others :clap:

young · May 30, 2011

if you want to get all fancy heres the part number for the puller, h-screw driver (has 2mm allen head) and replacement limiter cap.

total was less then $14 at dealer.

puller
5910 890 4502

h-screw driver
5910 890 2306

cap
1141 121 2702

porsche965 · May 30, 2011

On a stock saw I'll confirm the best torque @ 13,800. Mine at sea level wanted to torch north of 14,600 with limiters in place. That sure wasn't going to fly, and no, there certainly was no rev limiter (?) or four stroking involved!
Over 25 tanks at 13,800 and doing great! Break-in to where the H screw didn't need turned back was around 18-20 tanks or so. Great small saw.

SCHallenger · Jun 2, 2011

Removal of high speed adjustment screw

I have the alloy limiter off but can't figure out how you removed the high speed adjustment screw to trim off the #!?* plastic tabs. It seems that the tabs themselves prevent backing out the screw. If you could help with this "piece of the puzzle" I would be very grateful. The pics & info you have already posted are super! Thanks for all!

MCW · Jun 2, 2011

SCHallenger said:
I have the alloy limiter off but can't figure out how you removed the high speed adjustment screw to trim off the #!?* plastic tabs. It seems that the tabs themselves prevent backing out the screw. If you could help with this "piece of the puzzle" I would be very grateful. The pics & info you have already posted are super! Thanks for all!

From memory mate you just stick an allen key in and crank away. I wish I had a better memory to confirm this though

Rudolf73 · Jun 2, 2011

Yes that is right, you will need a 2mm allen key to turn out the H screw.

But hang on, before you take it out... There may be an easier way of richening the saw. I don't really see the need to grind anything. The limiter cap is designed to restrict the movement of the H screw, but it can be set in any position due a spline on the H screw.

Here is my suggestion. Use the allen key to turn it out and the plastic tab will hit the alloy casing tab. A spline connection prevents the plastic limiter slipping on the H screw. When you continue turning the H screw anti-clockwise the plastic cap will slip on the spline (makes a clicking noise). So if you turn it while slipping about quarter of a turn you have reset the limiter to a richer position. You may need to turn it further to achive the desired richness.

So now you still have the limiter in place, but the H screw has been turned out resulting in a richer setting.

If you want to you can still take the H screw right out to have a look and see how it works etc. but by turning it out you do run the risk of breaking the plastic limiter. For this reason stihl suggest that you replace the cap with a new one when resetting it.

Hope this helps, I just find it a lot easier doing it this way.

SCHallenger · Jun 2, 2011

Hi speed screw on MS261

Rudolf73 said:
Yes that is right, you will need a 2mm allen key to turn out the H screw.

But hang on, before you take it out... There may be an easier way of richening the saw. I don't really see the need to grind anything. The limiter cap is designed to restrict the movement of the H screw, but it can be set in any position due a spline on the H screw.

Here is my suggestion. Use the allen key to turn it out and the plastic tab will hit the alloy casing tab. A spline connection prevents the plastic limiter slipping on the H screw. When you continue turning the H screw anti-clockwise the plastic cap will slip on the spline (makes a clicking noise). So if you turn it while slipping about quarter of a turn you have reset the limiter to a richer position. You may need to turn it further to achive the desired richness.

So now you still have the limiter in place, but the H screw has been turned out resulting in a richer setting.

If you want to you can still take the H screw right out to have a look and see how it works etc. but by turning it out you do run the risk of breaking the plastic limiter. For this reason stihl suggest that you replace the cap with a new one when resetting it.

Hope this helps, I just find it a lot easier doing it this way.

Thanks a bunch guys. I will be on it as soon as I get a bulb for my wife's car & some hardware & will post back with results. Awesome advice from Aussie friends!

MCW · Jun 2, 2011

Rudolf73 said:
Yes that is right, you will need a 2mm allen key to turn out the H screw.

But hang on, before you take it out... There may be an easier way of richening the saw. I don't really see the need to grind anything. The limiter cap is designed to restrict the movement of the H screw, but it can be set in any position due a spline on the H screw.

Here is my suggestion. Use the allen key to turn it out and the plastic tab will hit the alloy casing tab. A spline connection prevents the plastic limiter slipping on the H screw. When you continue turning the H screw anti-clockwise the plastic cap will slip on the spline (makes a clicking noise). So if you turn it while slipping about quarter of a turn you have reset the limiter to a richer position. You may need to turn it further to achive the desired richness.

So now you still have the limiter in place, but the H screw has been turned out resulting in a richer setting.

If you want to you can still take the H screw right out to have a look and see how it works etc. but by turning it out you do run the risk of breaking the plastic limiter. For this reason stihl suggest that you replace the cap with a new one when resetting it.

Hope this helps, I just find it a lot easier doing it this way.

Exactly right Rudy. Now if only I'd thought of that I'D look like the smart one

bomar · Jun 2, 2011

is that 261 a strato motor

MCW · Jun 2, 2011

bomar said:
is that 261 a strato motor

They most certainly are mate

They run on the smell of an oily rag.

Anthony_Va. · Jun 2, 2011

young said:
if you want to get all fancy heres the part number for the puller, h-screw driver (has 2mm allen head) and replacement limiter cap.

total was less then $14 at dealer.

puller
5910 890 4502

h-screw driver
5910 890 2306

cap
1141 121 2702

My local dealer tells me he can't sell me tools to mess with my carb, such as limiter removal tools, etc. Is this true, or is he just a prickhead?

young · Jun 2, 2011

Anthony_Va. said:
My local dealer tells me he can't sell me tools to mess with my carb, such as limiter removal tools, etc. Is this true, or is he just a prickhead?

find another dealer. :angry:

or pm me and i can get them for you.

koshari · Jun 3, 2011

Rudolf73 said:
Yes that is right, you will need a 2mm allen key to turn out the H screw.

But hang on, before you take it out... There may be an easier way of richening the saw. I don't really see the need to grind anything. The limiter cap is designed to restrict the movement of the H screw, but it can be set in any position due a spline on the H screw.

Here is my suggestion. Use the allen key to turn it out and the plastic tab will hit the alloy casing tab. A spline connection prevents the plastic limiter slipping on the H screw. When you continue turning the H screw anti-clockwise the plastic cap will slip on the spline (makes a clicking noise). So if you turn it while slipping about quarter of a turn you have reset the limiter to a richer position. You may need to turn it further to achive the desired richness.

So now you still have the limiter in place, but the H screw has been turned out resulting in a richer setting.

If you want to you can still take the H screw right out to have a look and see how it works etc. but by turning it out you do run the risk of breaking the plastic limiter. For this reason stihl suggest that you replace the cap with a new one when resetting it.

Hope this helps, I just find it a lot easier doing it this way.

so in summary,

1-pop the cap with a drywall screw, (we call em tekscrews here in aust).

2- then unscrew the internal screw, The screw in the plastic piece is the H screw and the white nylon piece around it moves with the screw,

and with a bit of force from the 2mm ellen key the H screw will jump the zigzag profile spline between the H screw and the nylon piece when its hard up against the internal casing raised slot and allow easy adjusting within the next say 340 degree of adjustment?

young · Jun 3, 2011

saltas said:
..

I placed in side the alloy H limiter and the two plastic tabs were proud of the surface of the alloy so I trimmed these with a sharp knife.

koshari said:
and then unscrew the internal screw, is the screw in the plastic piece the H screw?

yes

Rudolf73 · Jun 3, 2011

MCW said:
Exactly right Rudy. Now if only I'd thought of that I'D look like the smart one

Yeah, it doesn't seem like much of a "tamper-proof" limiter cap, but it only makes sense once you pull it out and see how it works. And by doing it the way I mentioned the parts aren't being modified, so no sign of resetting the carb and no real reason to void the warranty. Maybe stihl designed it like that for a reason

Ms261 alloy h limiter

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