Stihl 015 Build Thread

Hey guys, I've seen alot of posts recently about the little 015 top handle saw that Stihl made for many years.
I bought this white one from another member here on AS and he asked if I could post up a thread on the build.
I says Sure!
I've done many of these and have several that I use for parts when these come thru the shop.
So follow along and I'll take you thru a complete re-assembly with lots 'n lots of pics.
I'll also show some things to look out for as Stihl changed some things throughout the production run of these saws.

Here's the one I'll be building:
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And here's the one I already own, an orange 015AV.
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Sub scribing.

opcorn:

Here's a few carcasses I have in the basement I steal parts from to fix others'
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Some have the hand gaurd, some don't.
Some have a full length clutch cover, some are only ½...

Two different oil pumps were used that required the matching spur/worm gear. They were not interchangable.
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The clutches appear a little different, but I think they are OK to interchange.
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The 015 came from the factory with ¼" and 3/8" pitch chain. If you have one that is ¼" and want to change it to a more common 3/8" Low Pro, then you must change the white plastic worm drive because the sprocket teeth have to mate with it. This is what will drive the oil pump spur gear in the previous pics.
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Unfortunatly, this 3/8" spur sprocket is NLA thru Stihl, at least according to MediaCat 2012. I'm not sure if Oregon still offers a replacement?

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The 015 I am rebuilding had the flywheel in the lower left corner. It had a broken fin, not big deal, probly OK to use, but since I had another good one, I'll use it.
But before I toss it, I'll salvage the pawls and springs by tapping out the pins that hold them.
The one at the top right has a bad spring that I can replace.
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Here's the crank/rod/piston assembly. I didn't actually take this apart on the saw I am rebuilding but I thought I'd show the process.
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I use a light grease to hold the needle bearings in place while I carefully slip the con rod back on. Pay attention to which direction the piston needs to go because many did not have an arrow indicating.
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Subbed!

Slip the shaft bearings, seals, and locating washers back on. Each side of the crank is a different diameter so you shouldn't get this backwards.
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And drop the rotating group down into the cylinder.
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I noticed a couple of differences in castings.
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These fuel and oil caps are also NLA thru Stihl.
Some have "mix" and "oil" molded in, some do not.
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I've cleaned up both halves of the front handle and case, ready for a new gasket to go in. The wire wheel on the bench grinder works great for this.
The gaskets are still available so I usually keep 3 or 4 in stock at all times.
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Outstanding. Thanks for sharing.

I recently acquired two later orange versions (runners) and will be watching the thread closely.

Here's a pic showing the original fuel and cracked oil line on the right and a new fuel line installed on the left.
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Here's the replacement fuel line from the MS250, 021, 023, & 025.
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I've installed a large fuel pick-up filter on mine but if you want the ability to replace the fuel line without dis-assembling the entire case, then install a smaller fuel pick-up body like in the above photo. This lets you pull the entire fuel line and pick-up thru the hole in the case. I don't plan to replace mine anytime soon, so I leave the larger pick-up filter in place for now.
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I have a new stihl spur you can have if you will pm me your address. I bought it for the first saw I ever had which was an 015L and the saw got stolen the day before the spur showed up. It is just like the left one in the picture.

:coffee:

Put the handle cover on and hold it with these 2 screws.
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Now you can smear some Dirko in the mating surface before you set the engine in place.
Do NOT forget the kill wire and grommet. You WILL be taking everything back apart if you forget this. I know.
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Then just tighten the 4 long screws and 2 short screws and the engine is done.
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Good thread. Subbing on this one. I have some parts for those too so PM if you need some.

The kill wire will attach to this post on the breaker point assembly. You can adjust the gap at this time also. Here you can see the gap is open.
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I didn't have a new gasket for under the oil pump so I just used a dab of Dirko.