Stihl 028 Rim Sprocket Upgrade Project <pics>

After searching here and some PMs, I determined what I needed to 'upgrade' my 028 Super to the .325 floating Rim sprocket, instead of replacing the whole drum. I put my fairly new 18" .325 bar from my 361 and a new yellow (74) chain on the 028 a few weeks ago, after I upgraded my 361 to a 20" bar. I though before I use it I should put a new rim sprocket on it, to find out it was a whole drum everytime. A few of the guys, striperswaper & teacherman, here really helped by pointing me to the correct Baileys part numbers and explaining what was included in the Rim and Drum kit, so future rim sprocket replacements are just the floater rim like my 361 uses. The whole project took me less than an hour, including the cleaning time

I ordered from Baileys:

RD-29917 (.325-7) Rim & Drum (comes with washer, clips and gear)
DSB-37517 Drive Sprocket Bearing

The kit came with an extra cover insert, I guess Stihl might use two different sized ones, one fit, the other did not, spare part. Glad to see everything came in the kit, although it is not marked as a kit. The bearing was a seperate part number.

After removing the bar and chain, I cleaned out the torx heads for the plastic clutch drum cover, and removed the original rim clip with a small screw driver. The metal plate ontop the bar adjuster had to be removed prior to removed the clutch drum cover, it was the screw between the bar nut studs.



I had to do some cleaning, carefully and remove the plastic oil pump sprocket then the original drum staight up and off. Below is a pic right before I removed those two items.



The next picture is after the removal of the prior mentioned items. The bearing, on the main shaft, slides right off, this picture shows the new 37517 bearing installed.



I then slide on the new Rim Drum, new plastic gear on the drum, then the original oil pump plastic gear. Looking like the below picture



The below picture shows the original plastic drum housing cover installed, with the new metal cover inserted, the new Rim Floater sprocket and the large clip to hold everything together.



Then I slide on the new .325/7 Floating Sprocket, washer and small clip, very straight foward, washer and clip like the original, the below pic is minus the washer and clip.




Final picture, finished. All together about $25 includes shipping.

Thanks for sharing.
You gave me some much needed insight on what to look at as a possibility why my 028 is not oiling.
I'll have to add this stuff to my next Bailey's order..............454

Nice job, it looks like it came straight from the factory! I should have known you would do quality work though , you are from the SHOW ME STATE! Just giving you a hard time!
:greenchainsaw:

Nice job and pics. I need to do the same thing, and it is good to have reference pics!

Yes.. great post!

So if I do this I can switch from a seven to a 8 tooth sprocket?

Will the 8 tooth make my 028 faster?

i switched from a 7 to an 8 was faster but bogged when pushed hard.

Hey guys I have a few questions. I just bought an 028 AV Woodboss power head. I have cleaned everything except under that clutch cover. My questions are:

1) What are you using to clean your saws. When I did mine so far I used Gumout but that takes long. Could I use brake cleaner?

2) I need to order a bar and chain. I read some forums and they mentioned that you need to know the pitch of your sprocket. How do I tell that? What should I be looking for? I'm not sure if it has ever been changed.

3) I would like to go with an 18" bar and chain. I just cut firewood so I was thinking of going with the Bailey's bar and chain combo. Any recommendations of size and pitch to use? I cut mostly dead white ash and no more that 16 face chord a year.

thx

Jeff

dieselscout80 said:

So if I do this I can switch from a seven to a 8 tooth sprocket?

Will the 8 tooth make my 028 faster?

Click to expand...

Faster chain speed, yes, Faster cutting no unless your cutting real small softwood. Steve

This is what I would do.....

radar1975 said:

Hey guys I have a few questions. I just bought an 028 AV Woodboss power head. I have cleaned everything except under that clutch cover. My questions are:

1) What are you using to clean your saws. When I did mine so far I used Gumout but that takes long. Could I use brake cleaner?

Click to expand...

I used carb cleaner to clean the clutch springs, they had some powder type rust on them, then took a clean rag and wiped them down, then blew (lightly) with air compressor. The other parts I just used a clean rag to wipe the oil off, like the clutch cover, etc. I also put a little grease on the new shaft bearing, just a small amount with my finger. I did not clean the whole inside saw, I would think a rag and any kind of cleaner, just be careful around the clutch.

radar1975 said:

2) I need to order a bar and chain. I read some forums and they mentioned that you need to know the pitch of your sprocket. How do I tell that? What should I be looking for? I'm not sure if it has ever been changed.

Click to expand...

Reference the below picture of the old sprocket drum, the drum will have some markings on it, but on this model saw you have to remove the plastic clutch cover to see the face of the drum, mine was marked with a Stihl part number, and .325 7.

The new style I upgraded to, have markings .325 7 etc. on the floater sprocket, see second from last picture above posting.

radar1975 said:

3) I would like to go with an 18" bar and chain. I just cut firewood so I was thinking of going with the Bailey's bar and chain combo. Any recommendations of size and pitch to use? I cut mostly dead white ash and no more that 16 face chord a year.

Click to expand...

I would use the Stihl 18" Bar .325 Pitch .063 Guage, 74 links, part # 3003-008-6817, and the matching yellow 18" Stihl chain. Hard to beat this combo, Stihl bars and chains are tops. eBay has some new Stihl bars, or visit your local Stihl dealer. The stock sprocket drum will cost you about $14 or so, that is why I went ahead and upgraded to the Baileys kit and bearing $25 with shipping, then all I have to replace is the floater rim sprocket, which can now be replaced without taking the plastic clutch cover off. Also gives you the luxery of trying an 8 tooth or 7 tooth rim sprockets. I ordered mine with the 7 tooth when checking out at Baileys. They say you should replace the rim sprocket every 2-3 chains, for me that would be a few years as I use lots of different saws. Hope this info helps.

Great post and pictures. I did exactly the same thing.
Check out your chain catcher, looks bent.

iCreek said:

After removing the bar and chain, I cleaned out the torx heads for the plastic clutch drum cover, and removed the original rim clip with a small screw driver. The metal plate ontop the bar adjuster had to be removed prior to removed the clutch drum cover, it was the screw between the bar nut studs.

I had to do some cleaning, carefully and remove the plastic oil pump sprocket then the original drum staight up and off. Below is a pic right before I removed those two items.

The next picture is after the removal of the prior mentioned items. The bearing, on the main shaft, slides right off, this picture shows the new 37517 bearing installed.

I then slide on the new Rim Drum, new plastic gear on the drum, then the original oil pump plastic gear. Looking like the below picture

The below picture shows the original plastic drum housing cover installed, with the new metal cover inserted, the new Rim Floater sprocket and the large clip to hold everything together.

Then I slide on the new .325/7 Floating Sprocket, washer and small clip, very straight foward, washer and clip like the original, the below pic is minus the washer and clip.

Final picture, finished. All together about $25 includes shipping.

Click to expand...

radar1975 said:

....

2) I need to order a bar and chain. I read some forums and they mentioned that you need to know the pitch of your sprocket. How do I tell that? What should I be looking for? I'm not sure if it has ever been changed. ...

Click to expand...

If it has never been changed, it probably is high time to change it - and go with the rim and drum kit!

I know this is old but where did you get that kit? Can't find it?
Thanks Matt

matt9923 said:

I know this is old but where did you get that kit? Can't find it?
Thanks Matt

Click to expand...

I believe it came from Baileys, I remember reading this thread back when originally posted as I was working over a couple of 028`s back then. Maybe the OP will read your question and reply to be certain.
Pioneerguy600

I purchased this setup my my 028 about a month ago. the "kit" includes all you need except a bearing if you so choose(you can reuse yours if you want) here is the link:
http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=ORF+29917&catID=

thats everything you need to go to a rim-type sprocket on an 028. hope this helps.
matt

028AV Super sprocket

Hi,
I got a problem when replacing my sprocket and would appreciate any help. I cannot get the white plastic oiler drive cog pulled out - see picture. Both the sprocket and this cog do not seem to want to come out. I have not tried forcing them as this is the first time I have done this and do not want to do more damage than good! Is there something I should release to enable their extraction - or should I just go ahead and apply a bit of force?

Thanks,
cabs46

cabs46 said:

Hi,
I got a problem when replacing my sprocket and would appreciate any help. I cannot get the white plastic oiler drive cog pulled out - see picture. Both the sprocket and this cog do not seem to want to come out. I have not tried forcing them as this is the first time I have done this and do not want to do more damage than good! Is there something I should release to enable their extraction - or should I just go ahead and apply a bit of force?

Thanks,
cabs46

Click to expand...

Cabs,

Spin that gear clockwise. It should start to work its way out of the oil pump. Then just pull out, and it should pop right off.

Doing the same saw; Top to Bottom.

I was just given a Wood Boss 028 AV and have it almost restored now, but the sprocket is toast! Is the Baily's floating sprocket the way to go? and do I need to buy the bearing, or is the factory one usable with the new parts? Thanks.
I realize this post is 4 years old and I'll probably make a new post, but just checking here to save everyone the trouble. Thanks again. JB.

I use a rim sprocket on everything. Factory or Oregon, doesn't matter. And yes, replace the bearing and grease it up.