Huskee 35 ton 12.5 hp B/S

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Woodchuck47

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Bealeton, VA
I have a Huskee 35 ton log splitter with a 12/5 hp B/S engine. The thing is a beast that no log has proven to be to tough. The one problem (other then it is loud to run) is that it has an incredible kickback when using the pull cord on every third or forth pull of the cord. Enough to rip the fingers off a hand. I actually have to replace the cord and assembly along with the two plastic spring loaded pieces that kick out to turn over the engine when pulled.

Has anyone else had this problem?? any cure?? it seems the engine needs a compression release (...or an electric starter) I do make sure the lever to activate the plunger is not engaged....

Thanks for any replies....http://www.arboristsite.com/images/icons/icon9.gif
 
Wood, I got one of those beasts too. I always use two hands to crank it. One hand usually can't handle it.
 
You might try a snowmobile handle (some snowblowers have them too). The big fully enclosed two handed jobs. I had one on my Dolmar 143MX saw too.
 
Pull it slow until you get thru the compression stroke,then give it a quick pull.


:agree2:

Yep, it can be a beast if you aren't careful. I've had it rip out of my hand a couple times but, never broke anything on the machine. A bigger pull handle or electric start would be a help.
 
My handle is cracked,but it still works.

I have to give credit to another poster(I dont remember who) that mentioned that in another thread.
 
Wood, I got one of those beasts too. I always use two hands to crank it. One hand usually can't handle it.

Is the table on your splitter home built, or did you buy it premade with the splitter? TSC told me they could order me a table with my splitter, but I assumed it would be too light for me. Never saw a picture of it.
 
Is the table on your splitter home built, or did you buy it premade with the splitter? TSC told me they could order me a table with my splitter, but I assumed it would be too light for me. Never saw a picture of it.

Free, I bought it from a guy on ebay with the handle, 33Flame. I added a piece of diamond plate to keep the small stuff from falling thru. Actually, if your 35 is set up like mine, you won't have to drill any holes to mount it. Your beam may already have two big holes in it spaced about 16 " apart--one is hidden under decal. Just put the table on the beam and put two 5/8th's bolts thru the holes with big washers. When the bolts are tighten, the washers keep the top edge of the table bracket in place. I may take a clearer pic to show people. Best $ I ever spent on that table.
 
Free, I bought it from a guy on ebay with the handle, 33Flame. I added a piece of diamond plate to keep the small stuff from falling thru. Actually, if your 35 is set up like mine, you won't have to drill any holes to mount it. Your beam may already have two big holes in it spaced about 16 " apart--one is hidden under decal. Just put the table on the beam and put two 5/8th's bolts thru the holes with big washers. When the bolts are tighten, the washers keep the top edge of the table bracket in place. I may take a clearer pic to show people. Best $ I ever spent on that table.


I haven't purchased the splitter yet, in a couple of weeks. I have decided though, this is where I will purchase it.

Pricing a new chainsaw now. I am leaning hard on a Husky, likely the 460.

The Sthil farmbosses I have priced seem too expensive.

I don't Ebay, as I won't use online payments.

Thanks for the advice though.
 
thank you amen brother:clap: been fighting this problem since i bought this unit replaced the pull start assy twice so far .
i cut the pull start handle with one off my 450 yamaha kodiak and when its cold i wear a large thick ski glove when starting this son ##### will get ya!!! was at tsc other night they had the same engine in a electric start for just under 500.00 almost bought it but thought why when i would still have a splitter that was slow. going to buy a super splitter this spring and use the huskee for big stuff and park it in the winter. the new ones at tsc have different engine thats looks smaller and has horizontal shaft setup looks safer but also cheaper.
also bought one of the racks from flame 33 on ebay love it.
 
I don't Ebay, as I won't use online payments.
I don't either. 33flame takes u.s. postal money orders. I had no problems with the purchase; last time I looked, he had all positive feedback.
 
I had the same problem with the kickback. I changed the flywheel to a geared one and added a starter. Now I just push a button and i'm splitting wood. No more sore fingers or arms.
 
I don't Ebay, as I won't use online payments.
I don't either. 33flame takes u.s. postal money orders. I had no problems with the purchase; last time I looked, he had all positive feedback.

+1 I was going to say that. I heard that E-bay is trying too get everyone on the PayPal wagon though by eliminating other payment types?
Also you might take a look at the motor. Most Briggs of that size have a ring gear on them whether or not they have electric start. This makes it easy too add on the starter motor. They ain't cheap though and of course you'll need the batt. Actually I might have a starter laying around in the barn on an 11hp B&S off a lawn tractor.PM me if you have the ring gear and are interested.
 
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I have a friend that has the 35 ton w/ the B&S. He has the same c(now a omplaints, he actually cut his hand up pretty badly when the handle broke on 28 ton)his(replaced w/ snowblower style). He borrows my 27t w/ the little 6hp honda on it all the time. He likes it better, says its slightly faster, quieter, easier on fuel, has yet to find anything it wouldnt split etc. One case where bigger is NOT better I guess. The only issues I have with mine is the location of the oil filter(in suction line WTF). and the fact that the wedge does not travel all the way to the end plate(not really an issue untill you get into some really stringy stuff).

Incidently this years version of the machine I bought (now a 28 ton) corrects the issue with the oil filter placement and has a horizontal shaft Honda on it, looks like a much nicer setup than mine. Kinda wish I had waited on that one :) But I'm still very happy I chose the one I did. It has the better heavier duty beam of the 35 ton w/o the overkill factor
 
I have a few year older 34 ton and that was one of the lessons I first learned on that one.
I pull a couple short and then it is just like a regular pull start. but when I forget ouch.
 
Hard to beat the Hondas for just about any piece of equipment. I'm willing to pay more for the reliability and ease of use. I purchased a Billy Goat leaf vac in the fall and although the dealer tried to steer me away from the Honda to a Briggs, I spent the extra $200 for the Honda. Nothing worse than fighting to get an engine started especially when it's cold out. I had an old Husky saw that damn near would tear my arm off sometimes when I went to start it.
 
Hey guys, saw this thread so I will offer my input. The big Briggs motors are tough to pull over. We offer an electric start version for that reason, but it's not commonly stocked by stores. On the big Briggs motors (10.5 and 12.5) the recoil assembly has some slack in it the way it it designed. You need to pull slowly until the prawl engages the flywheel, then pull to start. It also helps to do as beerman6 suggested, pull until it's just past or on the compression stroke, let the rope back in, take out the slack and then pull to start.

The new horizontal shaft motors are easier pulling, one of the reasons we are switching over to that series of motors. An alternative would be to add electric start to your splitter, either a 12v with a battery, or Briggs offers a plug in 110v electric start. I couldn't tell you the cost on that, you would have to get with a Briggs dealer.

The Log Catcher we offer for the splitters is very handy, whenever we are doing testing the splitter always has one on it. After using a splitter with a Log Catcher, I wouldn't use one without. The ones we sell are plenty stout, I've dropped 2/3 of a 24 inch diameter Elm log several times on one without any problem.
 
Hey everybody! Just got on here to see if I could find an answer and came across this thread. When my Huskee 35 ton starts ripping the starter cord out of my hands I take the flywheel off and every time the key has been partially sheered in two. I just hurt my back pulling on this thing yesterday trying to get it started so I'm looking for a solution. I've replaced the key probably 4 times over the 10 years or so I've had it. I don't see a reason not to put a steel key in, to combat the kick back (back fire). Anybody have any experience that can shed some light on this subject? The pump just spins and can't contact anything. Or maybe I should do this one-more-time and put a dab of thread locker on the shaft/keyway/key? - Ron
 
Hey everybody! Just got on here to see if I could find an answer and came across this thread. When my Huskee 35 ton starts ripping the starter cord out of my hands I take the flywheel off and every time the key has been partially sheered in two. I just hurt my back pulling on this thing yesterday trying to get it started so I'm looking for a solution. I've replaced the key probably 4 times over the 10 years or so I've had it. I don't see a reason not to put a steel key in, to combat the kick back (back fire). Anybody have any experience that can shed some light on this subject? The pump just spins and can't contact anything. Or maybe I should do this one-more-time and put a dab of thread locker on the shaft/keyway/key? - Ron

Convert to electric start?
 
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