Who's waiting and for how long?

[fletcher0780]

Didn't even get a chance to take the plastic off it yet but once I do, i'll get pics.
As far as firebrick, i am not sure if that is the way to go. Correct me if I am wrong but when the inside walls of the firebox heat up, it transfers that heat to the water like it should. Lining the inside with firebrick will insulate the sides away from the heat making it rise to the top thus not making the most out of heat transfer. Or am I missing something.

The way I understand it, the fire bricks insulate the coals from the low temperature of the fire box allowing a more complete and efficient burn, they are also a great heat sink. I'm just considering lining the floor with it, and there is no water below the floor of the firebox (there is water under the ashpan, but consequently there's no insulation on the bottom of the water jacket- you should add some before you install).

The Shaver manual recommends using firebrick when burning coal.

 

[DLav]

Water temp in a Shaver OWB

I finally received my Shaver 165. I'm not sure how high to set the aquastat on the back of the stove, I had it set at 150 and it seemed to have a little trouble keeping up so I bumped it to 160. Been pretty cold here lately for this time of year, low teens at night with wind chills near zero. At any rate, the boiler itself seems to be well built, not the fanciest in finish, but I knew that before I ordered it.

1. What should the aquastat be at? How hot should the water be?

2. My forced air furnace is a high efficiency and since I installed the heat exchanger the air volume coming from the registers has diminished by a lot. The Shaver installation manual addresses this might be a problem with some furnaces, and suggests changing pulley sizes. Unfortunately my fan is mounted directly to the motor shaft. Anyone out there know of a good booster fan I could install into my cold air return and force more air into the fan? Does this sound like a good solution? (I came up with it on my own while drinking a few beers, sometimes these ideas don't work out very well for me)




Stihl 025
Stihl MS280
Stihl MS290

 

[rx7145]

I finally received my Shaver 165. I'm not sure how high to set the aquastat on the back of the stove, I had it set at 150 and it seemed to have a little trouble keeping up so I bumped it to 160. Been pretty cold here lately for this time of year, low teens at night with wind chills near zero. At any rate, the boiler itself seems to be well built, not the fanciest in finish, but I knew that before I ordered it.

1. What should the aquastat be at? How hot should the water be?

2. My forced air furnace is a high efficiency and since I installed the heat exchanger the air volume coming from the registers has diminished by a
lot. The Shaver installation manual addresses this might be a problem with some furnaces, and suggests changing pulley sizes. Unfortunately my fan is mounted directly to the motor shaft. Anyone out there know of a good booster fan I could install into my cold air return and force more air into the fan? Does this sound like a good solution? (I came up with it on my own while drinking a few beers, sometimes these ideas don't do too well)





Stihl 025
Stihl MS280
Stihl MS290

If the blower is direct drive, it should be a three speed blower. Look into your owners manual or on the side of the motor to see if it is.

 

[fletcher0780]

I finally received my Shaver 165. I'm not sure how high to set the aquastat on the back of the stove, I had it set at 150 and it seemed to have a little trouble keeping up so I bumped it to 160. Been pretty cold here lately for this time of year, low teens at night with wind chills near zero. At any rate, the boiler itself seems to be well built, not the fanciest in finish, but I knew that before I ordered it.

1. What should the aquastat be at? How hot should the water be?

160* on that thermostat generally equates to about a 180* water temp. Do you have any thermometers on your pipes? You'll need to build up a good coal bed before it keeps up with demand, this will probably take about a week.

 

[DLav]

160 - 180?

Thanks Fletcher and RX, I appreciate the help.

Is 180* where I want to be? I don't have any thermometers on the lines, but I can see the need for them.

I transitioned the PEX to 1" copper where it enters the basement wall, installed valves to drain the system at that point. Also valves and disconnects to isolate the heat exchanger, and a valve between the return line and my main household cold water line to act as a fill if needed and as a point to put additives into the OWB. I can sweat in some tees and add temperature gauges inside without too much difficulty. But I didn't have the correct shutoff valve when I hooked up the boiler, so I don't have a shutoff before the pump, yet. I do have a shutoff at the boiler on the return line. So I'll have to drain it down to at least the outlet level to put a gauge at the furnace. It seems to be working good right now, so I'll wait until a warm up in the weather to do it. How much water will I lose to drain it that far? For now I'll pick up an infrared thermometer to check the temps. I do have the hot water coil in the furnace, but haven't finished the plumbing in the basement for it yet.

As far as the fan goes, I don't see any labels that would indicate it is a 3 speed fan, but I can't see the motor very well without removing it. I do not have the owners manual. There are 4 wires going to the motor, black, blue, red and white. They all connect to the electronic controller mounted inside the furnace, they are marked heat, cool, park and the white wire I believe connects to the neutral.

Thanks again for the info.

 

[ngzcaz]

For a quick fix, get an IR thermometer. Its useful for measuring not only at the furnace but at the pipes entering and exiting the house as well. And Fletch is right on about the temp. Mine runs 15 to 20 degrees higher than the setting you see.. Do not set it at 180 to begin with.. increase it gradually.

Another thing.. my 165 wants to burn even with the draft door only 1/4 open. By burn I mean to the point where it gets hotter than even 20 degrees above the setting. I've had the aquastat gauge in the house on the oil burner go up to 170 w/ a setting of slighter over 140 at the OWB. Its still set at slightly over 140 and I'll keep it as low as I can while still heating the residence... Welcome to the club..

 

[fletcher0780]

Another thing.. my 165 wants to burn even with the draft door only 1/4 open. By burn I mean to the point where it gets hotter than even 20 degrees above the setting. I've had the aquastat gauge in the house on the oil burner go up to 170 w/ a setting of slighter over 140 at the OWB. Its still set at slightly over 140 and I'll keep it as low as I can while still heating the residence... Welcome to the club..

You need to do the solenoid controlled damper and digital aquastat like I did. $100 total for both and it runs like a champ.

 

[ngzcaz]

Yeah, I've been following your postings. Perhaps next year. Right now the snow's coming down and the winds a'blowing. And I'm nice and warm throwing wood in twice a day. I'm actually a little concerned about the fire going out since I have the smaller unit and up to now ( see below ) literally had no coals, just ash. I guess I have to hook on more places to heat to make sure it keeps burning. Cant imagine opening the draft door more ( or a solenoid opening ) and the resulting fire that would result.

** I graduated into burning " better " junk wood. This stuff is just green soft pine with hardly any rot. This stuff was down back standing dead wood. When cut it was still wet but at least I got it before it started rotting.I can notice better burn times already..

:greenchainsaw:

 

[ngzcaz]

By those of you who might be confused by me saying in one breath there's plenty of draft and then saying the fire might go out, I meant this. Warmer still days with no wind with the rotten wood, resulted in the wood just standing there not looking like it was doing anything. However, it didnt go out so I guess it was just a matter of much longer burn times..

 

[John D]

Still waiting on mine,my buddy got his 290 friday,on a late july order,from a local dealer the next county over.We went factory direct,paid more,and they still arent here. Had I known about the dealer,I would have gotten them thru him as well. BTW,its going to be 20-30mph winds here,15 derees at night,30-32 daytime temps for the next few day,my oil fired boiler is eating my money by the hour.:censored:

 

[david78]

I finally received my Shaver 165. I'm not sure how high to set the aquastat on the back of the stove, I had it set at 150 and it seemed to have a little trouble keeping up so I bumped it to 160. Been pretty cold here lately for this time of year, low teens at night with wind chills near zero. At any rate, the boiler itself seems to be well built, not the fanciest in finish, but I knew that before I ordered it.

1. What should the aquastat be at? How hot should the water be?

2. My forced air furnace is a high efficiency and since I installed the heat exchanger the air volume coming from the registers has diminished by a lot. The Shaver installation manual addresses this might be a problem with some furnaces, and suggests changing pulley sizes. Unfortunately my fan is mounted directly to the motor shaft. Anyone out there know of a good booster fan I could install into my cold air return and force more air into the fan? Does this sound like a good solution? (I came up with it on my own while drinking a few beers, sometimes these ideas don't work out very well for me)




Stihl 025
Stihl MS280
Stihl MS290

My furnace blower is direct drive and is three speed. It was on low for the propane furnace and I changed it medium for the OWB. There was a sticker on the blower housing telling how to do it. Just a matter of taking a couple wire nuts off and switching wires. You might find a diagram for your furnace online if there's nothing on the furnace anywhere. It helped a lot kicking the speed up a little.

 

[projectsho89]

Been nothing but silence out of Salem...

I had time this morning so I kicked the hornet's nest (several of them, actually).

Now I'll see what shakes loose.

Steve

My credit card company has posted a refund of my deposit to my account, so I have my money back.

I'll still let the complaints to the BBB and the AR AG's office go through their processes to hold Shaver accountable for their non-performance.

Steve

 

[urhstry]

Pics

please post pics of your boiler including the coal grate. I want to try burning coal in my 290 this coming week, but don't have the correct grate. Are you going to line your floor with firebrick like they recommend? If you do, post pics of that too please.

Check out the "Shaver Improvement Forum" thread and feel free to borrow any of my ideas. My steam fix is still working over 1 month out.

Does your stove have a thermometer? Where is the light located?

Here is what I received. First time posting pics so we'll see how this goes.

[/IMG][/IMG]

 

[DLav]

Thanks ngzcaz

For a quick fix, get an IR thermometer. Its useful for measuring not only at the furnace but at the pipes entering and exiting the house as well. And Fletch is right on about the temp. Mine runs 15 to 20 degrees higher than the setting you see.. Do not set it at 180 to begin with.. increase it gradually.

Another thing.. my 165 wants to burn even with the draft door only 1/4 open. By burn I mean to the point where it gets hotter than even 20 degrees above the setting. I've had the aquastat gauge in the house on the oil burner go up to 170 w/ a setting of slighter over 140 at the OWB. Its still set at slightly over 140 and I'll keep it as low as I can while still heating the residence... Welcome to the club..

So is 180* where I want the water temp to be? Is that the ideal temp at the furnace? I picked up an IR thermometer and its running about 185 at the furnace.

 

[DLav]

Hey Fletcher

You need to do the solenoid controlled damper and digital aquastat like I did. $100 total for both and it runs like a champ.

Hey fletcher, did you remove the blower and install the dampener in its place?

 

[fletcher0780]

Hey fletcher, did you remove the blower and install the dampener in its place?

Nope, I did this:

 

[John D]

I finally got mine today.Its covered in road salt from the trip here.I hope to have it up and running by monday.

 

[RodneyG]

It's Finally Here!!!!!!!!

Well everyone it's here! Got my boiler Today. Hope to get it hooked up tomarrow. Could have really used it the past few days with the temps in the single digits. I feel like a kid on Christmas morning.:hmm3grin2orange:


RodneyG

 

[modn]

I gues I forgot to report here as I received my Cozeburn 250 on Dcember 13th. Here is the kicker.....the manufactured date says December 2008. I guess the paint wasn't even dry yet Coming from I think Manitoba. I thought it was a little BS going on when explaining where the boiler was, but I guess not!!! Either way I'm VERY happy with it so far!!

 

[fify59thatsit]

manufacturer

My farmer neighbor is a fantatstic welder, I'm a designer by education and wood burner/seller by desire, and the wife is in OS&D, maybe I should start making these things and sell them on the trading post.

To Shaver:
Good for you, to try and keep your customers/dealers in the loop, but your president should have seen the writing on the wall and started growth adaptation by modernizing the infrastructure.
Your damaged freight by a carrier, all to familiar with that. Running your own trucks for delivery, great comeback, glad to hear you are back with a separate carrier, it must subtract from your profit to feel the need for metalic protection on your product.
I'll have the wife read this thread, see if she can offer any assistance to help your bottom line with shipping issues.


It's always nice to see a manufacturer take the time to post on a forum, and respond to posts, might just be the future of customer service.

Manufacturer My a&**%$ Billy is the manufacturer Ben is a salesman