TravisL
ArboristSite Member
i found a "once" used 338xpt for 250 what do you guys think?
338xpt
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husqvarmit
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did you do a compression to make sure the one time ran was not straight gas, Does it start, run. If so I would buy it
varmit
varmit
SawTroll
Information Collector
I am far from an expert on those saws, but;
When it was made is very important with those saws, post the serial number if you don't need how to "decode" them.
The much better NE ones came out some time in 2006, I believe, maybe early 2007.
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TravisL
ArboristSite Member
it runs and looks like brand new ill get the serial. How come we dont ever here about husky top handles? It seems like everyone uses the 200t.
SawTroll
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fishercat
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fishercat
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because the 200t walks all over it.
my blood runs deep orange except for Husky top handle saws and the Tennessee Volunteers.
my blood runs deep orange except for Husky top handle saws and the Tennessee Volunteers.
SawTroll
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fishercat
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arborist
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allot has to do with the stihls power and overall well performance to weight.
however it's not a comfortable saw imho.i used one once and knew id never,never,never like the saw.doesn't mean its not great because it is.
just not for me.(and there are many others).
at this time,husky's little saws where "fair".when they ran good,they where great.but we where constantly bumping the back end caps off and losing them below in the brush.thats when the little 335s where not having hissy fits.the throttle would sometimes rev up uncontrollably and bog out in the cuts.even well experienced saw tuner i watched,once spent 30+ minutes getting it back into proper tune.
many gave up,but like myself just couldn't spend the $ for an arborist saw that feels so awkward to handle.we went to the cheapy 136 homeowner or delt with a poor running 335 half the time because it felt so comfortable to prune with.
now,theres such a good name for stihls very trusty and powerful top handle and a bad rep out on husky's lil ones,thats it going to take awhile for these saws to become more well known.
i grabbed the smaller one due to the fact i dont need anymore power than the 334t provides unless im in some real wood up there.
in which case,i want a full size saw for anyway and call up a big one to get this kind of work(mainly removals)done.iv no desire to cut anything large with any small saw aloft.i like using the heavy saw at this point,and get out of the tree way sooner than any top handle can think about.
while im pruning,iv got a saw that i wont have to send down to be refueled,yet more enough to continue where i like to change saws still anyway.
anyway,these new ones seem to be doing great.comfort,power,light,fast.
no other saw id rather have up there myself.less it was in red perhaps
(not tried jreds to know about av diff if any)
oh and ps lol,
yes id grab onto this deal fast! if it is what its said to be.(listen to the saw experts here on what to look for.)
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SawTroll
Information Collector
I believe the 200T is outdated after the 2139t/NE338xpt came out, but I admit that is second hand info.....LOL 
I never used a top-handle saw, and probably never will.
I never used a top-handle saw, and probably never will.
2000ssm6
Stihl User
I use them both as work saws, 335's and 200T's, and honestly prefer the husky, it's lighter and more flickable, which is noticeable on a pruning saw, and the power difference is very slight, but the 200T's got an extra kick at high revs which can be a good advantage sometimes, but real world over-all they match on power. A 338 must give the 200T a fright. A 335's about the same or better than a rev-limited coil 020T. BTW the best thing for any 335 is a better walbro carb off some other model saw.
The husky's also sleeker, more comfortable to hold with smoother ergonomic handles and chassis. Makes the 200T feel like a clunky brick. Get a small kickback on a 200T and your trigger finger knuckle hits a sharp plastic edge. The huskys better balanced because it's lighter, and with a sprung chassis there's no hi-frequency vibe like the 200T has. 335's probably put people off the husky top handle saws, but too late now, the Stihls rule, if only by numbers
The husky's also sleeker, more comfortable to hold with smoother ergonomic handles and chassis. Makes the 200T feel like a clunky brick. Get a small kickback on a 200T and your trigger finger knuckle hits a sharp plastic edge. The huskys better balanced because it's lighter, and with a sprung chassis there's no hi-frequency vibe like the 200T has. 335's probably put people off the husky top handle saws, but too late now, the Stihls rule, if only by numbers
oldirty
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how much you want for it?
SawTroll
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pbtree
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treeoperations
ArboristSite Operative
both are equal on power according to the advertised specs, the stihl 200t does have a slight edge over the 338xpt with a bigger bar on but why on earth would you run a bar bigger then 12" on a climbing saw, grab the next saw up in your collection.
the husky is easy to use all day long, the 200t is like holding on to a cinder block all day, them stupid wire loops are give the saw a funny balance point making it hang funny.
the off switch doesnt get knocked on the husky when its in amongst branches like it does on the 200t which is pain when your literally on the end of a limb having to restart a saw.
another thing that drives me insane on the 200t is the loop type holes in the chain brake handle they get caught on stubs and any other thing that could get into the handle.
just my 2cents a few times over haha
the husky is easy to use all day long, the 200t is like holding on to a cinder block all day, them stupid wire loops are give the saw a funny balance point making it hang funny.
the off switch doesnt get knocked on the husky when its in amongst branches like it does on the 200t which is pain when your literally on the end of a limb having to restart a saw.
another thing that drives me insane on the 200t is the loop type holes in the chain brake handle they get caught on stubs and any other thing that could get into the handle.
just my 2cents a few times over haha
pbtree
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oldirty
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Now we just need a post from rbtree, to settle this once and for all....
how bout one from me.
from a tree climbers perspective (mine) the 200t is the best saw ever made. that tophandle is a stud horse surrounded by geldings. if you cant see that for fact then perhaps you should pop your head out your own bum and have another look.
i'm not gonna argue numbers with ya or weights for that matter i'm just gonna tell ya like it is. that boxy little saw is just an extension of my fist while i am in the tree. whichever way i turn that fist the saw stays put. what i have forever suspected and just have just recently confirmed is that when your arm is extended and making the same cut with the 338 the nose wants to dip and causes the weight to pull the throttle keeping the chain revving after the cut.
been using the 338 on all of the climbs ive done that hasnt featured the 372 in it. (about 3-4 times in the past 3 paychecks....lol)
yes i did just talk about one handing a saw. how else do i cut and chuck limbs into pile, butts facing the same way?
so in summation. the 338 is a gutless turd (unless you feel like drilling holes and screwing with tank vents and finding a different carb) that probably a very limp wristed climber might prefer whereas the 200t is in fact the greatest saw of all time. i guess only to be run by the truly hardcore. the ones with the balls to take on a phat limb and fastcut it. just because you can.
Well, I find the husky nicer to use than the 200T and the 200T shines on the bigger stuff only. Also I thought the 338's would have decent carbs, the 335 carbs have the main nozzle sitting too high, bad design, the idle circuit is starved and crappy at the best of times. My 335 has a better carb with a lower nozzle and runs flawless
Talking about 200T's, here's some info on their dodgy accel pump carbs, this leaky 200T carb has been hack-sawed in half for a looksee inside. Tracing the accel pump circuit, it runs to the main nozzle. On this one the O-ring on the accel pump piston is actually worn down to less diameter than the piston, but the bore and piston themselves are still pristine condition. That non-sealing O-ring leaks air directly to the main nozzle. Bung in a new O-ring, you'd be good to go again.
I hack-sawed my old carb for nothing.. Other option would be to do away with the stupid pump all together by prying off the small welch lid as in the pic, and epoxy/cement the pinhole beneath. That'll block the accel pump circuit. Re-tweak the lo & hi jets for good low response and you'd be sweet.. Good theory anyway, wish that saw mechanic Lakefront was still around, he could have sent me all those 'trashed' 200T carbs he'd thrown in the bin...
Talking about 200T's, here's some info on their dodgy accel pump carbs, this leaky 200T carb has been hack-sawed in half for a looksee inside. Tracing the accel pump circuit, it runs to the main nozzle. On this one the O-ring on the accel pump piston is actually worn down to less diameter than the piston, but the bore and piston themselves are still pristine condition. That non-sealing O-ring leaks air directly to the main nozzle. Bung in a new O-ring, you'd be good to go again.
I hack-sawed my old carb for nothing.. Other option would be to do away with the stupid pump all together by prying off the small welch lid as in the pic, and epoxy/cement the pinhole beneath. That'll block the accel pump circuit. Re-tweak the lo & hi jets for good low response and you'd be sweet.. Good theory anyway, wish that saw mechanic Lakefront was still around, he could have sent me all those 'trashed' 200T carbs he'd thrown in the bin...
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