Federal Airtight 264CCL Questions

[Wood Doctor]

Welcome aboard. I think the cement will work to seal the space at the joint. I don't have an extra brass dial, but I'll keep an eye out for one. Doc has a 288, so he'll have a lot of good info about operation.

Keep us posted.

Yes, a good stove cement (Rutland) will seal those cracks. Sometimes that happens when the stove is moved a lot.

Here's the brass dial (not cheap):
Brass Dial (Large) - Consolidated Dutchwest at Black Swan Home, Hearth, and Gift

Consider making your own with a short bolt welded to a large fender washer (functional but lots of character). Once set, I seldom adjust this opening. Check out my posts on this thread for other model 288 ideas. Feel free to PM me for other questions or ideas. I've been burning mine since late 1987.

 

[geoxman]

I saw that brass dial on black swan the other day and really did not want to spend that much for a dial. I was thinking along the washer line as well. I am headed to the hardware store this morning to see what I can rig up. It will be for the ash door and I doubt I will use it that much. I re sealed all interior seams with the high heat Dap and I am going to re-gasket everything and secure the top this afternoon. This thing is a beast compared to my VC Defiant/Encore. I also like the idea of the fan to disperse the heat. I am going to also rig up some sort of screen for that to keep the dog hair from getting into it. This stove is so simple compared to my old one that had all of the refractory components, I just hope it puts out as much heat. Is the gasket surrounding the catalyst really needed? It is pretty snug. TIA

 

[geoxman]

Update

pulled it onto the deck, polished it up with stove polish, sanded all dials and handles in drill press, re did all gaskets, re cemented the top, put a 5ft stove pipe, filled it up with wood and lit a fire. I waited until the cat thermometer read 600 and it lit right up. It is deceiving how much cooler the top is from my old VC, but when I tuned on the fan it really shoots the heat. I am going to let it die out and see how long it will run before it is all the way out and cool. The firebox holds more than the VC, so I am guessing a good while. I will retire the VC next Monday and install the new/old stove. By the looks of the firebox I bet this stove had been only fired a dozen times, all parts are very clean. I might paint it a dark green, but I don't want it changing colors like Brandon's. I will post pics after install

 

[Wood Doctor]

Terrific!



Hard to believe that anyone who owned a Federal Airtight 288 stove would rarely fire it. I burn up 7 to 8 cords a year with mine, starting in mid-September and ending in early May.

That top will get hot, but it takes about half an hour for the stove to get there. After first firing with the block off plate open, and when the thermometer reaches 500 to 600 F, close the block off plate and the stove heat will take off like a rocket. Nearly all the smoke is then ignited in that secondary combustion chamber. The flue gases hardly even cast a shadow as they leave the chimney.

With a cast iron skillet resting on the top, you'll be able to fry bacon and eggs. The cat chamber can reach 1400 F on a cold day with a north wind. See my posts earlier on this thread for an alternative to a cat combustor. If you stick with the cat, you can clean it with soap and water or occasionally in the dishwasher. A pipe stem cleaner is yet another method, using hundreds of pokes.

I also boil water on the stove's top using a cast iron tea kettle with an open top. That adds moisture back into the air--up to a gallon a day. If you use the glass doors, be careful loading really big logs in. That ceramic glass can break, and it's expensive. I got a quote for $300 a pair from a glass shop and almost died of sticker shock.

Finding a used one of these for little cost is truly fortunate. Keep us posted on events and feel free to ask any question as you move along. Here's my beast:

 

[geoxman]

That looks just like mine except I have legs, the screens on top are still intact and the fan is in the rear. I ran into a minor snag and it is too tall and I am going to have too knock out two rows of brick in the top of my fireplace. I hope that wont be a structural problem?? The guy I bought it from took it down around 10-12 years ago for allergy reasons and sat it in his garage. He was moving and getting rid of everything and when I saw it at the sale it had minor surface rust from sitting so long. I checked everything and except the minor, minor surface rust it was super clean. I offered $200 and we agreed on $250. I think I will be happy this winter! I was going to have spend about $600 on the VC repairs. I can't really for see much that will go bad on this stove that can't be replaced with ease. I will post pics of mine next week after the install

 

[mytsigns]

Geoxman, why not just take off the legs?

I ran into a minor snag and it is too tall and I am going to have too knock out two rows of brick in the top of my fireplace. I hope that wont be a structural problem??

OK, I'll bite...Why not just remove the legs, and turn the manifold so it exhausts to the rear instead of up? My fireplace opening is 28", right now I my stove is 29, with the legs still on it and manifold turnrd to the rear. I'm just going to cut the legs down two inches.

Good luck, winter's comin'

Myt.

 

[geoxman]

I like the legs due to Mastiff hair and that was with the flu collar turned around an not facing up. I knocked out the row of bricks and I had no problem with the structure. I also built a cast iron top warming shelf over the top of the stove, attached to the brick. I will post some pics this week of the new 7x4 hearth, stove and warming shelf...now the learning curve of how to run the stove continues? I have done about 5-6 small fires and it is quite different from the VC defiant/encore. good luck and what DW do you have?

 

[mytsigns]

Nice...like the warming shelf idea

I like the legs due to Mastiff hair and that was with the flu collar turned around an not facing up. I knocked out the row of bricks and I had no problem with the structure. I also built a cast iron top warming shelf over the top of the stove, attached to the brick. I will post some pics this week of the new 7x4 hearth, stove and warming shelf...now the learning curve of how to run the stove continues? I have done about 5-6 small fires and it is quite different from the VC defiant/encore. good luck and what DW do you have?

Dutchwest India FA224ACL-that's the little one with no convection vents or fan. It is not in yet (we had a little ol' hurricane and then flood round here. Lot's of downed trees though.).

I like the warming shelf idea. Please do post a picture or two of your setup.

Stay Warm,

Chris

 

[mytsigns]

Craigslist find ... York, PA

Wood/ Coal Stove

Can't really see what it is.

Chris

 

[bsearcey]

What's going on Federal Airtighters!? Who's burning? In VA we are not there yet, but I can feel the change a comin. Some new news on my end. I picked up another FA264CCLR. This one is a "R" (right loader), so that will take some getting used too. My excitement is mainly because this one was produced between 86-87 so it has the combustion air inlet (third dial on the side towards the top). My old stove didn't have that, so I'm hoping to get some different and better performance. Not to see the earlier model I have used the past two years hasn't been performing, but I'm hoping the ability to adjust the air at the cat will produce a better reburn.

Anyway, I picked the stove up from a guy close by me who found our thread. He posted some pics early on, but they don't really do the stove justice. It is in near mint shape. The glass is crystal clear and it has all the parts. Even the plates that screw onto the shaker grates. I'm going to regasket it, even though I don't really think it absolutely needs it.

I have a fireplace in the master bedroom, so I plan on moving the old stove up there (not exactly per code). I doubt I get it hooked up this year, but maybe. I think being able to run the stove downstairs and one upstairs will help me keep temps at a more even level throughout the house. Maybe even burn less wood since I have to keep things cranking downstairs to generate enough heat to affect the upstairs area. It would be nice not to have the living room in the 80s just so I can have the upstairs in the upper 60s.

That's the news from VA. I'll post some pics when I have the new stove in. BTW if any of you guys hear about or have an extra round flue collar for our stoves, let me know. My new stove only has the oval flue collar with it, and I'd rather not try and mess with an ovalized T connection.

 

[Wood Doctor]

That combustion air inlet valve has always been somewhat of a mystery to me. I usually keep it about 2/3 open and seldom change it. I imagine it works to control oxygen to the cat combustion chamber, so closing it seems senseless. I doubt you would lose much air in the house with the fire extinguished.

Weather has been so nice here that I haven't burned in two weeks. That will change. Meanwhile, I have so much dry wood split and stacked that I'm taking a rest and selling the excess.

 

[bsearcey]

Hey Doc. If you were closer I'd take some of that wood off of your hands. I've got about 3 cords of mainly red oak ready to burn this year (seasoned for two), but I think it is still a little on the high mc side. Oak hates to give up its moisture. I think in a perfect setup you can get oak to season in two years, unfortnately, I don't have a good place to season it with full sun and wind exposure. Pretty much all my wood is red or white oak. I need to get my hands on about 8 cords worth of red maple, or some other decent BTU quick seasoner. That way I can burn it for the next two years and let all my oak get good and proper.

I kept having a problem last year with the cat become clogged. To the point of not working. I had really good seasoned (mc in the teens) wood last year and a brand new cat, so that should not have caused this. I know the cat was at temp when I would engage it, and it always light off showing a steady climb on the cat probe, but it would eventually become clogged with what appeared be creosote and ash.

Anyway, I'm hoping with the cat air inlet I can focus some air right to the cat to help keep it burning properly and prevent last years problems.

BTW-I saw a thread of yours a little while back about a Makita 6401 you were working on. Did you ever figure out what was wrong?

 

[Wood Doctor]

Hey Doc. ... BTW-I saw a thread of yours a little while back about a Makita 6401 you were working on. Did you ever figure out what was wrong?

Nope. I still have the saw. Lots of compression, good spark, but it will not start. Won't even burn a little gas added to the combustion chamber. I've checked everything else. This engine should run. It does not.

Thanks for asking, Brandon. Nobody on the Chainsaw Forum has any idea why it does not run either. So, I just cut with my Stihl, Echo, and vintage Mac saws. They all work.

You need some ash, elm, maple, hackberry, mulberry, walnut, or even cottonwood to help keep that oak burning hot. Mixed hardwoods are the secret. Getting a huge hoard of maple doesn't work. Soft maple especially dry rots in about a year and gets punky, even when stored off the ground.

 

[bsearcey]

Doc. Sucks about the Makita. I want even begin to start giving advice about fixing it, but....have you pulled the muffler to check things out on the piston? I know you say it has compression, but alot that I've read about this test says that it alone can be misleading. Did you actually hook a gauge up? I hope you can get it running. I do like mine, but just checked the compression with a gauge and it read 125. I think I might put a BB kit on it soon.

You mentioned in your thread that you don't feel a difference with the decomp pressed. You should. I can definitly start mine without it pressed, but there is resistance. With the decomp pressed, it virtually effortless.

 

[forever1948]

Another One!

Hi All - Just wanted to let you know there is another Federal Airtighter in here. Thank you for all of your info!! I have enjoyed this thread tremendously. I'm a rookie and started burning just the other day (grew up with a fireplace though). I'm sure I will be asking many questions. Thanks all!
View attachment 201338

 

[Wood Doctor]

Nice Stove...

Hi All - Just wanted to let you know there is another Federal Airtighter in here. Thank you for all of your info!! I have enjoyed this thread tremendously. I'm a rookie and started burning just the other day (grew up with a fireplace though). I'm sure I will be asking many questions. Thanks all!
View attachment 201338

Welcome aboard! Looks like you have a dandy. Read the directions carefully. Dutchwest used to be a great company with a great product. It takes a little getting used to and some TLC to get the most out of it. Many who have sold this stove never got the hang of it because it takes some attention--especially at startup. However, it is a well-made hunk of iron and steel. The free standers like yours kick out the most heat.

Parts are tough to find, so I've made several of my own (as shown in earlier posts).

 

[raybonz]

Hi All - Just wanted to let you know there is another Federal Airtighter in here. Thank you for all of your info!! I have enjoyed this thread tremendously. I'm a rookie and started burning just the other day (grew up with a fireplace though). I'm sure I will be asking many questions. Thanks all!
View attachment 201338

Congrats and welcome! Your CDW looks like it's in good shape! I sold my large CDW a few weeks ago and built a new hearth and a new Pacific Energy Alderlea T-5.. My old CDW served me well it was just time for a change and the T-5 has a great view of the fire especially when the secondaries kick in.. Will this stove last me over 20 years like my FA264CCL, time will tell..

Ray

 

[forever1948]

Welcome aboard! Looks like you have a dandy. Read the directions carefully. Dutchwest used to be a great company with a great product. It takes a little getting used to and some TLC to get the most out of it. Many who have sold this stove never got the hang of it because it takes some attention--especially at startup. However, it is a well-made hunk of iron and steel. The free standers like yours kick out the most heat.

Parts are tough to find, so I've made several of my own (as shown in earlier posts).

Thanks Wood. Man it puts off the heat. I have an 1900 square foot house and it heats the entire upstairs and 50% of the downstairs. Luckily for me I work for a home building company so I have an endless supply of free wood. Nice dry pine. You see any downfalls with burning that? You can see the little stack of cutoffs in the picture. I also have some ash but I just split it this summer so I am going to wait to burn that 2012/2013. Also, would any other CDW owners in here recommend the blower attachment? I found the one on fasco and confirmed that it meets the proper specs.

Raybonz - That sounds like a nice stove!!!!

 

[bsearcey]

Most of the guys on this forum and the other wood burning forum will burn pine. Shoot in some areas that is all that is available, and they burn for 6 months or more out of the year. As long as it is seasoned properly and the stack temps are kept up, there really shouldn't be anything to worry about. The only downfall is it burns quicker than the hardwoods.

I highly recommend the fan unit. You will get more heat out and away from the stove. You will need to block of the two screened holes on either side of the ash door when running the fan. That way the air is blown in can work it's way out of the top air outlets. This will maximize the amount of heat the air absorbs.

 

[bsearcey]

Help me out guys

Alright. I've got the new stove put in and have been burning off and on for the past few days. I'll get some pictures posted soon. I'm having an issue that I can't really put my finger on. When I engage the cat after the cat thermo reaches about 600, I get the steady increase like I'm used to. More often than not, the thermo goes all the way up to 1600 and stays there. The cat is so hot that the circular recessed area that the thermo sits in starts glowing orange. It's a dull glow and is really impercetable unless the lights are off, but I can see it and don't think the cat should be getting that hot. It stays there too. It's been like this for over an hour now.

I know I have a slight air leak at the front doors. Could this be causing it. The reason I know I have the leak is that there are small steady flames on the front of the logs by the door. If I push on the doors where they overlap, the flames die down and when I release pressure the flames come right back. It's not roaring or anything just steady orange flames. Other than that I have all the air turned off to the stove. The outside stove temperatures (top and sides) are between 250 and 350, air tubes are about 350. When I run the infrared over the top plate it jumps to 850-950.

I'm not worred that the stove is overfiring, but could that top plate melt? I doubt it, but I have no clue really. I don't think it is good for the cat to run at such high temps for that long though.

It's strange that the doors are not sealing good. I regasketed everything except for the windows. Based on the shape the stove was in when I got it, it didn't appear to have been used much and definitely not abused. I figured the window gaskets don't really get affected like the door gaskets do. If I push on the bottom of the doors, there is definitely movement though, so it is either not seated good or the doors are bowed which doesn't make sense.

I can get the cat to cool down by opening up the bypass damper, but that kind of defeats the purpose.

Thanks in advance for any insight.