mama
ArboristSite Operative
Had a friend give me a 266 xp with a scored piston, looks like the cylinder is scored pretty deep. E-bay has cylinder and piston kits for 169.00, is the saw worth fixing.
Husqvarna 266 xp
- Thread starter mama
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Joe46
ArboristSite Guru
Yes
ryanrat
ArboristSite Member
ABSOLUTLY WORTH FIXING!!!
I have a pretty lengthy thread with pics from a 266XP rebuild i recently did and it was totally worth it. I have 20, 24, and 28 inch bars for it and it pulls through about anything i throw at it. Yea its a little heavy and the anti-vibe isnt as good as new stuff but they dont make saws like the 266 anymore... a good rebuild, good regular care and a sharp chain and it will cut a lot of wood for ya!
I'll gladly take it off your hands though if you decide not to mess with it!
SawTroll
Information Collector
Find out why it got scored before you put new parts in it!
mama
ArboristSite Operative
Thanks for the Info, I might try and acid clean the cylinder and just put in a new piston and rings and see how it runs.
spike60
Addicted to ArboristSite
The e-bay P&C must be an aftermarket kit because the original is now NLA from Husky. (which I think is somewhat recent).
dsell
Addicted to ArboristSite
It was a nice saw, lots of torque, but I like my Makita 6401 better. You will probably have to buy crank seals and isolators. Baileys doesn't list the P&C for it. Perhaps other models fit it? Not a good flip, parting it out would yield more $.
mama
ArboristSite Operative
Yes the kit is aftermarket, made in Italy. I already have a partner S-65 with a 24 in B&C on it, doesn't seem to pull that size chain very well, maybe i need a skip chain. all of my other saws are in the 55 cc range so I would like a bigger saw that would cut good in big wood. I would replace the crank seals etc. The 266 xp is a closed port with a windowed piston so it should be a good cutter. Never had anything bigger in Husky than my 55 rancher. I'll keep everyone posted as to the progress.
ryanrat
ArboristSite Member
my p&c looked just like that (maybe a fuzz wrose...) it will clean up as long as there is no deep scoring in the cylinder walls. get a new piston, new crank seals, buy a gasket kit for the whole saw and replace all the gaskets in the set less the case gasket (keep it around if you ever want to get real adventurous), new spark plug, new air filter, fill it gas/oil and let it eat!
272super
ArboristSite Operative
Do you plan to pressure test the saw after the rebuild? The saw failed the first time for a reason and the test will rule out many potential problems.
SkippyKtm
The Lorax, my FIL rip...
You can go with an aftermarket Meteor piston as they make a good one, but its much better to stay away from any of the aftermarket cylinders.
You're pics are a little fuzzy, but that cylinder looks like it will clean up OK.
You'll need to investigate and found out why the original piston failed or it'll happen again. Things to check would be a vacuum leak, bad fuel line, plugged carb inlet screen, plugged or blocked impulse passageway, etc.
No, that saw is crap...send it to me instead
1st saw I ever bought in the mid '80s...sold it to a friend and it is still cutting wood.
1st saw I ever bought in the mid '80s...sold it to a friend and it is still cutting wood.
I have one i got that had a leaking crank seal that led to a scored piston. I cleaned up the cylinder with acid and replaced the piston and anything made of rubber with parts I got fron Northwood saw who sponsors this site. Northwood is A+ in my book - great prices, great parts and fast shipping.
You may be able to save the cylinder. There are plenty of posts on acid treating cylinders. It is really easy. Get some muriatic acid from a friend who has a pool or a hardware store. I use q,-tips to apply it to any transferred aluminum until it stops bubbling and smoking. rinse it out really well with water and hit the cylinder with 600 grit wet-dry sandpaper. Use your fingers to be sure it it is smooth. I brought back many cylinders from the dead this way.
You may be able to save the cylinder. There are plenty of posts on acid treating cylinders. It is really easy. Get some muriatic acid from a friend who has a pool or a hardware store. I use q,-tips to apply it to any transferred aluminum until it stops bubbling and smoking. rinse it out really well with water and hit the cylinder with 600 grit wet-dry sandpaper. Use your fingers to be sure it it is smooth. I brought back many cylinders from the dead this way.
