Sharp Maul vs Dull Maul?

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ReggieT

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I've heard tons of arguments on both sides. There's an old coffers here that swears he can and has split Black Locoust, Elm, Iron wood...one handed, after killing a pint of Wild Turkey with a razor Sharp 12 lb mayor! What's has been you guys experience? Thanks
 
Maul? Isn't that something you beat yourself up with when you're not getting enough abuse from your spouse? ;o)
 
I would tend to think the sharper the better. But then again, I don't split much with a maul anymore and never did that much to begin with.
 
Sharp Maul

I keep my maul as sharp as I can. After each use I take a file to it just to touch up the edge. I have found the sharper the better as the head will bury itself into the round rather than bouncing off. The biggest thing you really need to keep an eye on is the taper of the cutting face. You want a good lead in and not something very blunt just past the sharpened edge.

Works for me!

Craig
 
if im splitting straight grained wood i dont mind a dull maul. now on the other hand or end of the maul when splitting stringy wood like elm i would want a sharp maul to help cut the strings!!also if theres more than a pickup load to do, neither dull or sharp is going to do it !! thats what we have hyd. splitters for hey?lol:msp_confused:
 
I keep my maul as sharp as I can. After each use I take a file to it just to touch up the edge. I have found the sharper the better as the head will bury itself into the round rather than bouncing off. The biggest thing you really need to keep an eye on is the taper of the cutting face. You want a good lead in and not something very blunt just past the sharpened edge.

Works for me!

Craig


I agree, the sharper the better. On a new one, the cheap ones I buy, I figure 2-3 hours of grinding and filing to get the taper down to something I can use. Maybe someday I'll spend the money and buy a good one but holy cow $150 for a maul, Mueller etc.
 
I agree, the sharper the better. On a new one, the cheap ones I buy, I figure 2-3 hours of grinding and filing to get the taper down to something I can use. Maybe someday I'll spend the money and buy a good one but holy cow $150 for a maul, Mueller etc.

Husqvarna sells a 6.5 lb sharp edge maul with a hand-forged head made by Wetterlings for about $80+tax. Just FYI...seems not very many people here are familiar with the handmade Husky branded axes and mauls...it's all Fiskars all the time...

The Fiskars is great most of the time, but occasionally you run into some stuff that laughs at it and you need some more heft.
 
Husqvarna sells a 6.5 lb sharp edge maul with a hand-forged head made by Wetterlings for about $80+tax. Just FYI...seems not very many people here are familiar with the handmade Husky branded axes and mauls...it's all Fiskars all the time...

The Fiskars is great most of the time, but occasionally you run into some stuff that laughs at it and you need some more heft.

I didn't know they made one, cool!

Bailey's - Husqvarna 6-1/2 lbs. Splitting Maul
 
Husqvarna sells a 6.5 lb sharp edge maul with a hand-forged head made by Wetterlings for about $80+tax. Just FYI...seems not very many people here are familiar with the handmade Husky branded axes and mauls...it's all Fiskars all the time...

The Fiskars is great most of the time, but occasionally you run into some stuff that laughs at it and you need some more heft.

Yep. There is no tool anywhere that does everything.

Harry K
 
Sharp. I bought a new maul about 3 or 4 years ago to replace the double bit ax, thought I made a mistake until I worked it over with a grinder and file. Learned also that 'wood splitting wedges' from tractor supply don't split wood very well. Got some wedges that are way longer with much less of a taper and never looked back. The ones I use are about 12" long and about 3" thick at the back. By the time it's buried then grab the other one that starts out at 2" and widens to about 5". If I still need more it goes in the bonfire pile.

Now I have a splitter, the maul leans against the wall forgotten, cold, and un-loved.:D
 
I like a sharp edge. Nothing blunt or badly shaped. I like a thin edge that is sort of self-sharpening. Since it is a splitting maul, I also choose not to sharpen it or keep it razor sharp. My 2 cents.
 
Sharp. I bought a new maul about 3 or 4 years ago to replace the double bit ax, thought I made a mistake until I worked it over with a grinder and file. Learned also that 'wood splitting wedges' from tractor supply don't split wood very well. Got some wedges that are way longer with much less of a taper and never looked back. The ones I use are about 12" long and about 3" thick at the back. By the time it's buried then grab the other one that starts out at 2" and widens to about 5". If I still need more it goes in the bonfire pile.

Now I have a splitter, the maul leans against the wall forgotten, cold, and un-loved.:D

Brand/source of larger wedges?
 
Overall it's better to sharpen them. A maul doesn't have to be sharp enough to shave with since the edge is needed only on the first swing. After that, the wedge shape of the head parts the round.

A blunt maul will split red oak and other species where you have a crack or check at the ends of your blocks. Split along the cracks.
 
I never sharpened my maul (8 lb) until I processed over a cord of Siberian Elm early this year. It made it noticably easier to split, but still beat my brains out. :bang:
 
Finally Sharpened Mine Today!

I never sharpened my maul (8 lb) until I processed over a cord of Siberian Elm early this year. It made it noticably easier to split, but still beat my brains out. :bang:

I would say it made the busting about 30-35% easier...maybe!:rock:
Thinking about buying that "Friskars Beast" this week though...a friend of mine chops wood "overhead" with it!:laugh: I think he's on some type of hard narcotic!:msp_razz:
 
I would say it made the busting about 30-35% easier...maybe!:rock:
Thinking about buying that "Friskars Beast" this week though...a friend of mine chops wood "overhead" with it!:laugh: I think he's on some type of hard narcotic!:msp_razz:

====

What exactley does this mean????
 
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What exactley does this mean????
WidowMaker,

He jumps from the back of his P/U truck and cuts with that Friskars Axe overhead branchs & also use's a Husky 28 bar in like manner...he's barely missed falling debri & branch's'...but he very athletic and dam lucky...and STUPID!:hmm3grin2orange:

He's the same guy who deliberately oversleeps every morning then drives his Mustang 100 mph to work...just for the thrill and adrenaline rush!:popcorn:

I told his wife...I hope you have @ least 3 insurance policies on him...cause the Law of Averages...will kick in ONE DAY!
 
When I got a Mueller last year, it gave me a demo as to what a proper maul edge was, besides an efficient head shape. Not to mention metallurgy.

Edge: sharp. Head slightly convex to about 3/8" behind edge. Head faces essentially flat from there to about the midpoint of the eye. Some might call this stuff subtle, but it sure works.

Took a disc grinder to some old 5 lb and 8 lb mauls to try to mimic the head shape of the Mueller. The difference in performance was startling. Now the Mueller is reserved as heavy artillery for the big, nasty stuff.

Now, if I could only find my steel wedges ...
 
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