converting Stihl MS250 to EZ start

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The saws pictured look like mine. The bulletin says you can't retrofit the ez start to the earlier saws. I went the other way, I had an easy start and I didn't like it and put the conventional starter on it. I didn't notice the coil being any different than my other 250, I just took the gap gauge and dialed it in, I never changed coils. I don't have any pics right now of the saw with the cover off but I'll try to remember to take a pic tomorrow. I doubt if it means anything but I did use an aftermarket starter, not a Stihl OEM.
 
Yeah, that is definitely not a Stihl logo. Can you take a pic of the white tag on the space below the right hand grip?
Also give the serial number? Maybe a pic of the inside of the old ez-start starter and flywheel? Does your saw have a primer bulb on the other side?
 
Yeah, that is definitely not a Stihl logo. Can you take a pic of the white tag on the space below the right hand grip?
Also give the serial number? Maybe a pic of the inside of the old ez-start starter and flywheel? Does your saw have a primer bulb on the other side?
I can easily answer the last question, yes it has a primer bulb which I disconnected when I replaced the carburetor with a 2 screw adjustment type. I think the easy starter is in a junk pile behind my garage but I'll try to fish it out.
 
That might work. If it doesn't I just saw a new case on ebay for around $25, don't know about shipping.
Thanks! I didn`t find the $25 crankcase. The one I found is $59.95 + $36.05 shipping. I will assemble the saw and try it out as is first. I got it disassembled in a box, so I will probably spend some time figuring out how to put it together.. Found a rebuild video on Youtube that looks useful.
 
Here is a tech bulletin on the e-z start for the ms210-250 series, good read.
Thanks! Useful reading. Here are the serial numbers on my crankcase (ez-start)
 

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Registered to a guy in Texas? Purchased 5/25/2010.....

I was curious about the info on a. palmer's saw really, to see if it was a frankensaw or something...
Yes, thats right. I got it from a guy that got it from a Norwegian pilot that lived in Texas for a while.
 
Thanks! I didn`t find the $25 crankcase. The one I found is $59.95 + $36.05 shipping. I will assemble the saw and try it out as is first. I got it disassembled in a box, so I will probably spend some time figuring out how to put it together.. Found a rebuild video on Youtube that looks useful.
I looked last night and didn't find it either. They had one for about $30 and I don't know about the shipping. It seems to change a lot..
 
Yes, thats right. I got it from a guy that got it from a Norwegian pilot that lived in Texas for a while.
Mine is indeed a Frankensaw, I bought it at a yard sale in pieces and assembled it from parts I bought but it came with the easy start system and the easy chain adjust system, both I don't care for so I changed to a conventional but I didn't change the coil. I had to change the flywheel because the center had an oval shape with pawls on it which is not compatible with the regular starter which has it's own pawls. The saw also had little compression so I had to put a new piston kit in it. I also put a new chain and sprocket on it. I think I said in an earlier post that I might have been better off if I'd just went and bought a new 251 from Stihl.
 
EZ Start 003.JPG EZ Start 001.JPG EZ Start 002.JPG I've got a pic of the easy start and the case, the numbers on the saw are not readable but it is a 250 because I put a 250 piston in it recently. It does appear that the bolts for the module are in a different place from the junk saws but the one with the gas cap damage appear to be similar.
I got the numbers from the back of the case under the clutch cover, they are: 1123 021 08001 211 US. The front number must have had too much wood against it over time and was wiped out but the tag still was there.
 
Yes, your crankcase is truly for an ez start, so the regular starter and flywheel fits with no fitment issues?
Starts normally? Where starter meets the flywheel?
 
I may have gotten lucky, everything bolted up fine, clearance on flywheel to coil around .010 starts good, runs good. The only mini-problem I had was when I ordered the aftermarket flywheel they sent me one with a keyway whereas the original had a key built in and I had to fashion a key for it. I couldn't buy the key because it was a straight groove in both the crank and flywheel so I took a regular woodruff key and put it in the vise and started filing. Also, a minor thing, the handlebar sticks out a bit since it was made for the starter sticking out a bit (about 1" more). It doesn't look out of place though. If you're going the other way the handlebar to starter clearance might be a bit more snug but it will work.
It appears to me that the only difference in the saws is the coil but if you have the coil that matches the bolt holes in the case it should be okay. At least it worked for me...
 
Success! Assembled the saw, and had a test-run yesterday. Must learn how to sharpen chain, else everything is fine. Started very easily, and the fuel tank repair seems to be a success also.
 

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OK, here's my experience. Main differences between the two variants are: the MS 250 C has the E2S recoil system, compression relief valve on the cylinder, different carb with a remote primer bulb, additional fuel lines and a fuel vent, plus a Quick Tensioner chain bar adjustment. The MS 250 has none of that.

I bought an MS-250C. After a while I got tired of the Quick Tensioner (OEM part 112300701008) bar loosening up and the disconnected feel of the E2S recoil start ( OEM part 1123 080 2108). So I bought an OEM recoil starter assembly for the MS 250 (1123 080 2104) and an aftermarket flywheel for the MS-250 (OEM Part 1123 400 1203) along with an aftermarket MS-250 bar tensioner assembly (OEM part 1123 007 1004) , bar studs (OEM part 1123 664 2400) , bar stud nuts (OEM part 0000 955 0804), and chain cover (OEM part 1123 640 1705) . I sourced all of my parts from Amazon and eBay, except for a woodruff key from Ace Hardware. Important addition, some of the aftermarket flywheels I saw on Amazon and eBay were out of phase - you have to view the picture to make sure the magnets on the flywheel are in the same position relative to the crankshaft key.

I was initially worried I would have to replace the coil and spark plug wire assembly, but that wasn't necessary. On the engine side you can go back and forth just by swapping the recoil starter assembly and flywheel. I should note that the OEM flywheels have a key cast into the shaft opening where some aftermarket parts do not, which was the case with mine. I bought a woodruff key from Ace Hardware and filed it down to fit. The compression relief valves, carbs, primer bulbs, vent lines, etc, or lack thereof. are not critical. Even though the coils between variants are different, it also doesn't matter. The chain bar adjustment systems are interchangeable also. So you can have an Easy 2 Start system or not, and a Quick Tensioner system or not, your choice. You can make an MS 250 C into a modified MS 250 and the reverse.

I did buy an Zama OEM carb rebuild kit for the carb, which was really all it took to get the saw running again. But I'm really pleased to have a near MS 250 that runs flat out.

Any questions I'm happy to answer. Cheers and happy woodcutting!
 
I converted my MS 180 from EZ START to a standard recoil starter with just a recoil assembly, but not sure about the MS 250.
sorry to rehash an old thread. I would like to do this on my 180 as well. I don't like easy2start at all and would like a standard starter. Is it really just as easy as swapping out the recoil assembly?
 
Ok, Just went from Easy2Start on my ms-180 to "standard". No flywheel replacement needed on this saw. All you need to do is to replace the recoil assembly (4 bolts?) pop off the easy to start version and put on the standard version and it works perfectly... SIMPLE! I found someone parting out a 180 on e-bay and got the standard recoil assembly to my door for $20.

Now.... anyone want to convert a 017/170, 018/180 to Easy2Start? I have the recoil assembly for you. : )
 
This thread is about the MS250
Yes it is. Somewhere along the line there was mention of a 180 in this thread, which I found when I was searching this as a”how to” for a 180 (using the search feature everyone always says to use) so I asked the person who made mention of the 180. He didn’t reply. I figured I’d follow up and mention my experience in case someone else down the line wants information to attempt the same thing. More info and experience available the better in my opinion.
 
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