tree_chomper
ArboristSite Operative
Anyone tried them in any stihl applications?
Avoid using any Chinese bearings,they are of notoriously poor quality,seals no better. Go to your local dealer that sells bearings and seals. Give him an old seal and measure the crank diameter,seal hole size in crankcase and width of the seal. Then be sure to specify a double-lip seal or you will likely get a single lip seal. As for the bearings there will be a number on them(And in the parts book)such as 6202,6203 etc, Then specify for the the bearings that they come with the teflon(Or plastic) cage,this is crucial!!! Especially for Huskys and Jonsereds which were still fitted from factory with metal cage bearings,and these type have a much higher failure rate. The bearings with teflon cages can tolerate higher revs,and do NOT destroy the piston and cylinder in a cage failure,in fact I haven't seen any blow... Then make sure the bearings are a good known brand. Buying your bearings and seals this way is cheaper too!
Well,buying your bearings and seals from a local bearing supply company is still FAR cheaper than purchasing factory original for the very same brand bearings,and some do not sell you the better teflon cage bearing. We had one large company running 365's for slashing brush,and many had main bearing failure from over-revving on fairly new saws,but these saws had the metal cage bearings,I rebuilt these to the teflon cage bearings and none came back.
But as a mechanic I saw various things with Chinese bearings and they failed very quickly.
In fact the best bearing set-ups,have no cage a all! Mercury marine engines use all needle bearings on the crank,and the big end and piston pin end of the con rod. No cages. But what a job to assemble,on a 4 cylinder motors I rebuilt there something like 600 needle bearing total to install!(All glued in place with grease and your hands can't tremble or you spill the needles all over) In most applications(Not main bearing-ball bearing assemblies we use on saws) the cage is there simlply for ease of installation.Without the cage you can fit almost twice as many needles,rollers,or balls into the application and this increases the load carrying ability accordingly. They even sell ball bearing assemblies with no cage,all balls inside. But I've checked and they don't make those bearings quite as small as the 6202 or 6203 bearings most commonly used in saws. But I have built some competition saws with full needle bearings and no cages,they will never fail...
I would NEVER put them in a saw! I encountered them in various machines and they were always destroyed.Risk your saw to save only a few dollars?
Why wouldn't a person just buy his bearings from your local bearings dealer,far less cost than original bearings and the same thing.
Also if your old bearings had a metal cage you can order bearings with the "teflon" cages,They can handle more revs and last longer. Also when a main bearing fails in a saw you will see the metal bearing cage all bent and piled up and usually it's pieces of the cage that get pumped up into the cylinder and cause piston/cylinder damage.It's the cage that causes most bearing failures.
Also another real secret about bearings- They are all also rated C1,C2,or C3,that refers to the clearance of the ball bearings,how "tight" the bearings are. Stihl told me that they use a tighter bearing than Husky/Jonsered does.
It used to show in the parts books for husky and Stihl, for the bearing you would see a C2 or C3 number.I don't know if the parts pages for them now do that.. It would be good to investigate that because if Stihl was using a tighter bearing I would be using that style in other saws too. When you get a new bearing it has the C number on the box and the bearing too I think. It's been many years now but i think Stihls used a C2 bearing and Huskys C3. C1 would be too tight for high speed and high heat apllications.
I do know that I saw far less bearing failures in Stihls than Huskies,only a few over very many years...
In fact the best bearing set-ups,have no cage a all! Mercury marine engines use all needle bearings on the crank,and the big end and piston pin end of the con rod. No cages. But what a job to assemble,on a 4 cylinder motors I rebuilt there something like 600 needle bearing total to install!(All glued in place with grease and your hands can't tremble or you spill the needles all over) In most applications(Not main bearing-ball bearing assemblies we use on saws) the cage is there simlply for ease of installation.Without the cage you can fit almost twice as many needles,rollers,or balls into the application and this increases the load carrying ability accordingly. They even sell ball bearing assemblies with no cage,all balls inside. But I've checked and they don't make those bearings quite as small as the 6202 or 6203 bearings most commonly used in saws. But I have built some competition saws with full needle bearings and no cages,they will never fail...
Pretending all Chinese bearings are the same is stupid, period. There are bearings manufactured in China that are 100% as good as OEM Stihl bearings. There are also bearings that are junk.
Many pieces of Stihls and Husqvarna chainsaws are made in China, including the bearings in some models. They will make whatever they are paid to make at a given price point.
DD
Pretending all Chinese bearings are the same is stupid, period. There are bearings manufactured in China that are 100% as good as OEM Stihl bearings. There are also bearings that are junk.
Many pieces of Stihls and Husqvarna chainsaws are made in China, including the bearings in some models. They will make whatever they are paid to make at a given price point.
DD
What can you tell me of Hutzl/Farmer Tec bearings today? I need 5 of the grooved bearings. The OEM are MTN made in Japan and iI keep getting saws with these bearings seized. the other side is a 6202 FAG bearing at the they seem good. Do you ever tease bearing with motomox oil when re-asembling the chainsaws?
Enter your email address to join: