olympyk_999
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the buyers brand one he currently has is only around $3 cheaper on the same site...
My log splitter build
- Thread starter 93green12v
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93green12v
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I didn't weld the nuts on. Why I don't know, mental error on my part but if I have a problem I'm just going to put a access panel on top so I can fix my mistake. So hopefully I have no leaks at the gauge and everything works great but I doubt it.
93green12v
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Alright, now I need some help or better ideas. I tacked in my log lift and the cylinder I had, the way I have it now is as far as the cylinder can go without tipping the I beam over. If I lengthen my mounting point and attach it to the bottom of the I beam would I be able to get the full travel out of the cylinder?
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You can put the bottom of the cylinder (the part that doesn't extend) where ever you want (I would put it on the bottom of the i=beam, maybe make a mount for it) but I would move where it attaches the to log lift so that with the beam level, the cylinder all the way in, the bottom of your lift is flat on the ground. Then you won't have to worry about tipping your splitter. It might move it a little depending on how the ground is. Just my $.02.
I usually just draw out the cyl mounting points on the garage floor. You need three measurments, pin distance at full retract, full extend and half way. If the hinge point of your log lift is where you want it, then figureing out the rod end of the cyl mount is pretty easy. Just go half stroke from the center of the hinge toward the outer edge of the lift platform. That is where you want to make your rod end mount. Depending on the length of your cyl, this might be all the way out to the end, or somewhere in the middle. Using the rod end mounting point you have just established, set the lift in the full down position take the full retracted lengh and draw a arch. Then with the log lift in the fully raised position, use the full extend lenght and you draw another arch. Where the two arch's intersect is where you place your base end mount. This way the lift will go full down or up at full extend or full retract.
93green12v
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Thanks guys. I think my first mistake was the mounting points for the lift is to close to the top of the beam and I don't think my push plate will get by. So I need to lower that, the tabs I made for the cylinder are too short. Need to buy more steel and I'm sure the tabs I made are only 1/4" and that isn't enough for strength. Muddstopper thanks for giving me a way to lay it out. May draw it out and post the pic so I'm sure I understood you correctly.
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My log lift mount is on the bottom of the beam. You're going to want those hinges in double shear, you will thank me later. I had the same problem with the ram slide clearing things. It just takes some trial and error. 
Keep up the good work!
Keep up the good work!
Make sure the mounts allow the lift to swing ground level to near vertical so the lift will be out of the way for transport.
olympyk_999
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I made my lift mounts extend far enough out from the beam so the push plate wouldn't hit the lift no mater what position it's in...
I dont know if you can see the way I laid it out using auto cad. This is how I made the mounts for my knuckle boom using circles. Little different than your build but the principles are the same. Where the circles intersect at the lowest point is where the base end of the cylinder sets.
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93green12v
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olympyk_999
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the lift mounts are 1/2" material, the cylinder mounts are 3/4" material
93green12v
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93green12v
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Not the nicest looking setup at the moment but I got everything to work had to lower the brackets that the log lift connects to the I beam and add some length to the cylinder brackets to get everything to work. Thinking I should gusset these brackets or have something made that looks a lot nicer.
On average what did hydraulic lines and fittings cost for everyone? Not looking forward to that bill lol.
On average what did hydraulic lines and fittings cost for everyone? Not looking forward to that bill lol.
olympyk_999
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mine are all parker brand=$$
I know the manager at the parker store, and do a lot of business with him through my work so he gave me a good deal...but he said if he were to charge me full price it would have been around $950...he charged me $600
I have all JIC fittings, and quite a few 90 deg. sweeps which add up quick, I also have 2 separate valves which require a return for each, plus the power beyond to the next valve...
I know a lot of guys buy premade hoses from place like surplus center for a decent price, mine are all custom length as they were fitted at the hydraulic shop
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93green12v, I just plumbed my splitter and got most of the hoses and fittings at Princess Auto. Now that it is done I wish I had of just taken it to a farm equipment dealer and had them plumb it up. I used some off the shelf hoses and had to use multiple fittings to make everything work. Might have been a few more dollars for custom fitted hoses but the savings in fittings and the resulting heat build up and potential for leaks would have made it a better deal.
Next time at the very least I will haul the splitter to a Princess Auto parking lot and do it hose by hose to save a pile of trips. Princess Auto is a 3 hour round trip for me. Long sweep 90's, exact length of hoses is the way to go.
Next time at the very least I will haul the splitter to a Princess Auto parking lot and do it hose by hose to save a pile of trips. Princess Auto is a 3 hour round trip for me. Long sweep 90's, exact length of hoses is the way to go.
93green12v
ArboristSite Operative
I was thinking if I could get hoses for under 1k, I'd be real happy. I know it seems like when I break a line at work its at least 50 bucks or more depending on size and length. I'm taking it to a hydraulic shop to have everything done. I'm not screwing trying to do it all, it is one thing to redo stuff with steel but lines and fittings are too expensive. If I have an issue with heat build up or something I can drag it back to them.
olympyk_999
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the real cost for something like a log splitter that typically have "short" hoses are the fittings...all but 3 of my hoses are less than 4' long so there aint much hose there
93green12v
ArboristSite Operative
Just got down some wood to test this splitter out on once I get it running.....little off topic but can't help it.
being the scrounger that I am, I salvage hoses when I can. At work, whenever a hose blows, its usually next to the coupling. I take the old hose when I go buy a new one and just get them to cut the bursted end off. New hose goes on equipment, old hose comes home with me. Been collecting for a long time and I have a shelf full of old hoses with just one end on them. When the time comes, I will sort thru them, pick out the ones I can use, cut to length, and put on a new end. We dont use anything less than 3700psi hoses at work, and many are 5000psi. You want to buy a expensive hose, try buying a the 5000psi ones. I have paid over $400 for one hose not over 2ft long.
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