Choosing between a Panther Mill II and a Granberg

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TedSherman

TedSherman

ArboristSite Member
Joined
Dec 20, 2015
Messages
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Location
TN
Now, that I bought a ported and modded Husky 394xp, the question is: what size mill to go with? The logs I currently have are up to 32" diameter--but I know of some stumps in the area that are probably 48". Will this saw power a 52" bar? I've read several posts where folks say go with larger than what you currently think you need? Is it really that addictive? The Panthermill II 60" is $240 (http://pantherpros.com/panthermill2.html); Bailey's has the Granberg 56" for $340 (https://www.baileysonline.com/Fores...K-III-Alaskan-Chainsaw-Mill-with-56-Rails.axd) . Any feedback as to whether the Granberg is worth the additional $? I know kpantherpro is on the forum--so maybe he can chime in.
 
That 394 should go gang busters. Not sure if you want a smaller bar =/<36" as well as the 60" to run seperately.
From ergonomics as well on a 36 should be nicer
Remember to drill the nose

Good luck
 
Great buy on the saw, been following your adventure around the site! I run a ported 394 with a 42" bar on a 48" Grandberg, that is the biggest bar I would use without an auxiliary oiler. I chose the Grandberg over the Panther Mill only because the reviews said the Panther was heavier, and with the heft of a 394 I wanted the lighter Mill. I can't say which is lighter but the Panther is certainly cheaper. Be sure to read the Milling 101 thread, I learned quite a lot there. Good luck and enjoy!!!
 
babybart said:
Great buy on the saw, been following your adventure around the site! I run a ported 394 with a 42" bar on a 48" Grandberg, that is the biggest bar I would use without an auxiliary oiler. I chose the Grandberg over the Panther Mill only because the reviews said the Panther was heavier, and with the heft of a 394 I wanted the lighter Mill. I can't say which is lighter but the Panther is certainly cheaper. Be sure to read the Milling 101 thread, I learned quite a lot there. Good luck and enjoy!!!
Click to expand...
aux oiler for sure on any length, bobL's mini mill one is made from retic parts and hdpe clear hose which is great to visually see flow
 
Oh, I also wanted to say that I had originally bought a 24" Grandberg and then when I bought the bigger saw I just ordered the 48" rails and didn't have to buy a whole new Mill. Actually thinking about it, I have 42" rails with a 42" bar so I can fit 35" logs in it. Well anyway, you get the gist.
 
I'm thinking I'll go with a 48" bar. Whichever one I get, I already figured I'd get an aux oiler. Panther has it for about $30.
 
I got the Panther 42" mill. Bought it last Spring but didn't get around to milling until a few weeks ago. I was only able to get my logs at most a foot off the ground, so I was leaning over for all the slabbing. Over the last couple weeks, I did a mess of slabs. The Husky 394xp with a sharp rip chain cuts very well, but it is a heavy bugger with the mill. Doesn't help that I've got a torn up right shoulder that I'm having reconstruction surgery on this week. That's why I did all the slabbing, wanted to get as much done as possible since I'll be unable to do anything for 6 months. Here are some pics! Some of this is spalted maple, but I'm not sure what the other wood is--any ideas? I included a shot of the bark from a tree (5th pic) that is the same as the 2nd, 4th, and final pics. This has all been sitting on my driveway for a year and a half to two years. The stack is less than half of what I've got in the garage.
IMG_5005.JPGIMG_5006.JPGIMG_4961.JPGIMG_5056.JPGIMG_5046.JPGIMG_5070.JPGIMG_5029.JPG
 
Nice work! Thanks for the response. Hope your recovery goes well! Good thinking getting that lumber milled and drying while u recover
 
Ted, Just wanted to see how you are doing after the surgery? I set up my mill one day before winter hit here in MI (snowing like crazy).. So now Im playing the waiting game.
 
Thanks, Garrit. I'm doing fine. The plan was to do a superior capsular reconstruction using cadaver dermal material (some cool videos on YouTube!), but the arthritis on the humerus head (the ball) was too severe; so all he could do was clean up the arthritis, remove inflamed tissue and a couple of bone spurs. The rotator cuff muscles/tendons are too damaged to repair. I'll be looking at a partial replacement, but hopefully I can put that off for at least another 5 years (I'll be 55 in Jan). I can always have this same cleanup/debridement done again if the arthritis pain gets too bad. Not really wanting to do that though either.
 
babybart said:
Great buy on the saw, been following your adventure around the site! I run a ported 394 with a 42" bar on a 48" Grandberg, that is the biggest bar I would use without an auxiliary oiler. I chose the Grandberg over the Panther Mill only because the reviews said the Panther was heavier, and with the heft of a 394 I wanted the lighter Mill. I can't say which is lighter but the Panther is certainly cheaper. Be sure to read the Milling 101 thread, I learned quite a lot there. Good luck and enjoy!!!
Click to expand...
How do you like the Granberg? I'm now thinking of selling my PantherMill and buying the Granberg because of the weight issue, thus saving my shoulders a bit more wear and tear. I've seen the 48" Granberg for about $249. How much lighter is it than a 42" PantherMill? Anybody know?
 
I liked the Grandberg but don't really use very often anymore. I'm building a garage and took down 22 white pines for the framing and board and batten siding. Purchased a Norwood PortaMill and love it! By far the easiest way to chainsaw mill! Some of my logs won't fit on it so I will break out the Grandberg occasionally just to get to a manageable size.
 
TedSherman said:
How do you like the Granberg? I'm now thinking of selling my PantherMill and buying the Granberg because of the weight issue, thus saving my shoulders a bit more wear and tear.
Click to expand...

If mill weight is an issue you can minimise the need to carry a big saw and mill by using a wheelbarrow, or better still adding detachable wheels to the ends of the mill rails.
Like this.
Mobile2.jpg
I use pump up wheels taken from a $20 hand cart because they make it much easier to manoeuvre in soft soil and sawdust
I also leave the 60" mill rails on the mill even when using the 42" bar.
While this takes up more room it does make it easier to manoeuvre onto the log rails,

The wheels are attached and then the mill is picked up at the trigger handle end and pulled along behind you.
I make good use of this because my shop at home is 60 yards away from where I park my vehicle and I only have a narrow wheelbarrow access down the side of my house to the shop.

Wheels means a ramp can be used to load and unload into my van.

At the log, if the log rails are firmly locked to the log and not too high off the ground the mill can be parked alongside the log rails and pulled up onto the log rails.
This is aided by adding HDPE strips to the underside of the mill rails
Then the wheels are removed and reattached at the other end of the log but often I just leave the wheels on as they help to balance the weight of the power head and add more weight to help the mill slide down the cut.

The full length mill handle parallel to the rails also extends outwards to act as a 3rd leg.
Notice how far away the full length handle is away from the mill rails - this makes it easier to hand file the cutters from that side.
Leg.jpg

The 3rd leg allows the mill to stand on end on a firm surface - this makes it much easier to clean.
upright.jpg
 
BobL said:
If mill weight is an issue you can minimise the need to carry a big saw and mill by using a wheelbarrow, or better still adding detachable wheels to the ends of the mill rails.
Like this.
View attachment 561319
I use pump up wheels taken from a $20 hand cart because they make it much easier to manoeuvre in soft soil and sawdust
I also leave the 60" mill rails on the mill even when using the 42" bar.
While this takes up more room it does make it easier to manoeuvre onto the log rails,

The wheels are attached and then the mill is picked up at the trigger handle end and pulled along behind you.
I make good use of this because my shop at home is 60 yards away from where I park my vehicle and I only have a narrow wheelbarrow access down the side of my house to the shop.

Wheels means a ramp can be used to load and unload into my van.

At the log, if the log rails are firmly locked to the log and not too high off the ground the mill can be parked alongside the log rails and pulled up onto the log rails.
This is aided by adding HDPE strips to the underside of the mill rails
Then the wheels are removed and reattached at the other end of the log but often I just leave the wheels on as they help to balance the weight of the power head and add more weight to help the mill slide down the cut.

The full length mill handle parallel to the rails also extends outwards to act as a 3rd leg.
Notice how far away the full length handle is away from the mill rails - this makes it easier to hand file the cutters from that side.
View attachment 561326

The 3rd leg allows the mill to stand on end on a firm surface - this makes it much easier to clean.
View attachment 561327
Click to expand...
Functional aesthetics is a form of beauty I greatly appreciate. Thank you Bob, if I ever win money enough to visit Perth, I'd be willing to pay for a tour thru your shop, there are items I've not seen in there that I doubt I'd ever develop from my mind.
 
TedSherman said:
Now, that I bought a ported and modded Husky 394xp, the question is: what size mill to go with? The logs I currently have are up to 32" diameter--but I know of some stumps in the area that are probably 48". Will this saw power a 52" bar? I've read several posts where folks say go with larger than what you currently think you need? Is it really that addictive? The Panthermill II 60" is $240 (http://pantherpros.com/panthermill2.html); Bailey's has the Granberg 56" for $340 (https://www.baileysonline.com/Fores...K-III-Alaskan-Chainsaw-Mill-with-56-Rails.axd) . Any feedback as to whether the Granberg is worth the additional $? I know kpantherpro is on the forum--so maybe he can chime in.
Click to expand...
Ted; Yes it is that addictive! 6 Years ago I had ms-170 with HF version of Beam maker. Now my typical bar is 42" drilled thru sprocket. I had ordered, "just in case" a 60" bar after I found use for the just in case 50" bar. I now have a dual power 72" on order because the stump left in my avatar needed that to get another slice or two. that 170 is not pulling that much chain. ms-460 mm'd and max flo filter, 046 for other end of 6 ft. bar and more recently a ported cylinder ms-661 so bars, chains tension adjusters , drive sprockets etc. stay compatible.
My knees were replaced after grinding for a while. Chicken shots, a lube injected into the joint reduces the pain by filling in between bones that should not touch. May be a help for you, I found it on line and was provided as soon as I asked, Doc did not suggest. Good luck Ted
 

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