Huztl MS660

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i kept looking at my documents and the manual it says to use service tool AS then i find a updated part number that shows a stihl dealer price of $154.99, now thats the clutch side only.

and you need the two m5x72 screws installed to keep it from twisting
 
You do not need the Stihl tools to put these cases together. I install the flywheel side bearing onto the crank. I then heat the case and drop it in. If heated properly, it'll drop right in. I then install the PTO side bearing into the other case half, again using heat. I then pull the case halves together with the case bolts. Once tight you'll need to center and relieve the side load on the bearings by tapping the ends of the crank with a brass mallet. The crank should spin freely once correct.
 
Bedford T said:
thats basically what happened, he said he did not have the tool.

i just spoke with the guy where he bought the tool and he says the tool for pulling a crankcase together is actually the oem crankcase splitters and the pair cost close to $500 but that does not include the closure tool and he doe not sell that, if i read it correctly.
so ouch.
Click to expand...
You use the same tool. When you are ready to pull the case back together there's a sleeve you screw on the crank then screw the puller to the sleeve and pull the crank back through the case. One is for the flywheel side and the other is for the pto. The kit comes with 6 sleeve I think that fits different crank sizes for the pto side. Does anyone have a video on using it. It's hard to explain.
 
blsnelling said:
You do not need the Stihl tools to put these cases together. I install the flywheel side bearing onto the crank. I then heat the case and drop it in. If heated properly, it'll drop right in. I then install the PTO side bearing into the other case half, again using heat. I then pull the case halves together with the case bolts. Once tight you'll need to center and relieve the side load on the bearings by tapping the ends of the crank with a brass mallet. The crank should spin freely once correct.
Click to expand...
Your right I've done it that way to. But if you have them it's easy to use. Most dealers don't know how to use them or don't have.
 
MustangMike said:
How do these things run compared to an OEM 660?

Is the big bore kit worth it?

Anyone got some real hours on one and know if they will stand up to milling?
Click to expand...

Have my 56mm version thrown in with a couple of essentially stock Jonsered "Hobby" saws with similar cylinder designs but you might get a sense of where they sit on the saw stack. Again these saws were not modified much and the AM 660 was just bolted together. :)



I've run mine for over a year, the 56mm version actually quite a bit...it's strong enough to get your attention but not earth shattering. For the price there isn't anything in the same league new or used which is how it should be evaluated. LOL You can get a kit for the price of those special letters at the end of your saws .. AND its something actually accomplished by you when you are done. As these folks here are learning its not a paint by the numbers type of a project, but at the end a LOT of things will be learned and understood relative to saw repair AND a very functional 90cc class saw will be ready to do real work. These type deals can open up an entire new dimension to the saw hobby....hands on learning with little risk as they are cheap.

A 36 dollar free shipping 56mm top end...same as mine. Free port issue and everything.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/BIG-BORE-56...376805?hash=item51caa846e5:g:9pwAAOxyLN9SjLz2
 
Bedford T said:
thats basically what happened, he said he did not have the tool.

i just spoke with the guy where he bought the tool and he says the tool for pulling a crankcase together is actually the oem crankcase splitters and the pair cost close to $500 but that does not include the closure tool and he doe not sell that, if i read it correctly.
so ouch.
Click to expand...

Sorry I may not have been clear in answering you on Ebay
The OEM tools DO indeed include sleeves for pulling the case back together after splitting
We also offer a universal splitter for guys that use heat to put their new cases back together and that universal (not OEM Stihl) splitter does not include the closure sleeves.
The universal splitter works on many saws that are not Stihls and is a great alternative for small shops.

I will be getting more of the OEM splitters for both sides in stock this week.
It awesome that guys are building these fun jigsaw puzzles.
Dave
 
Definitive Dave said:
$35.00
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Stihl-MS660...Piston-Cylinder-with-Oil-Seals-/321653445993?
Click to expand...
SO what to you have for seal drivers? A link might help some. I did my cases heat differential method with a little persuasion with a 12t press....didn't take anywhere near 12T ! Just eased them using sockets. I have case assembly tools for most of the Husqvarna saws...anything like that for the 660??

I do have to point out that Definitive Dave's stuff is here so you don't have the two-four week delay through customs & shipping. That's worth something....
 
I wonder if you put the seal protector on the crank before you slide it through the case if the seal would be ok. I always put he seals in last so I'm not sure.
 
davhul said:
But if you have them it's easy to use.
Click to expand...

This isn't directed at anyone in particular.

I didn't buy the tools 'cause I needed them. I bought them because I wanted them. Same reason I bought the saw. I don't need a 90cc saw and I don't need a mechanical jigsaw puzzle, I bought it 'cause I wanted it and the challenge and, as I said earlier, because I need something to keep my occupied during the winter months. I used to make furniture, but the dust plays heck with my respiratory system. I used to build rifles, but the feds don't like hobbyists that build and sell. I used to do lots of metal fab work, but the grinding dust and welding fumes plays heck with my respiratory system...etc., etc., etc...

Clearly this can be done without anything more complex than a heat gun, a brass hammer, T27 torx, small phillips, medium flathead, 19mm socket (or scrench if you're really light on tools), straight & curved needle nosed pliers, straight & bent picks, about 14" of mason's twine and the ability to follow directions (written or video). Case sealant optional. And the one thing that makes all of this really, really easy...experience. And it's the experience that I'm gaining right now that I enjoy the most.
 
trboxman said:
This isn't directed at anyone in particular.


Clearly this can be done without anything more complex than a heat gun, a brass hammer, T27 torx, small phillips, medium flathead, 19mm socket (or scrench if you're really light on tools),
Click to expand...

I used to say tools from Lowes...but with the addition of my cheap and twisted press I should probably have said tools from Harbor Freight.:) These aren't rocket science, and I didn't use any "special" Stihl shop tools on the ones I've done. I'm an old fart, If I can do it any one can with the desire and mechanical skills.

I do have to stress "mechanical skills" and or at least some understanding of the physics involved. The skills can be learned but without them lots of frustration can happen until they are learned...:)

For me it was an "adventure". LOL unlikely set of parts scrambled together into something useful...right down my ally. Add the "underdog" factor...its now a challenge.
 
trboxman said:
This isn't directed at anyone in particular.

I didn't buy the tools 'cause I needed them. I bought them because I wanted them. Same reason I bought the saw. I don't need a 90cc saw and I don't need a mechanical jigsaw puzzle, I bought it 'cause I wanted it and the challenge and, as I said earlier, because I need something to keep my occupied during the winter months. I used to make furniture, but the dust plays heck with my respiratory system. I used to build rifles, but the feds don't like hobbyists that build and sell. I used to do lots of metal fab work, but the grinding dust and welding fumes plays heck with my respiratory system...etc., etc., etc...

Clearly this can be done without anything more complex than a heat gun, a brass hammer, T27 torx, small phillips, medium flathead, 19mm socket (or scrench if you're really light on tools), straight & curved needle nosed pliers, straight & bent picks, about 14" of mason's twine and the ability to follow directions (written or video). Case sealant optional. And the one thing that makes all of this really, really easy...experience. And it's the experience that I'm gaining right now that I enjoy the most.
Click to expand...
Im good I wasn't saying anything towards anyone. I was just referring to a earlier post. And I was Saying if you have them or know someone with it just makes it a simpler job. When I do it, it's got to be quick and easy because I have almost 2 weeks of work to do. I don't pull cases apart everyday or every week. Maybe 5 times a year. I want to build one and do some port work and other tricks on it because that's the next thing I want to learn. Some I see are building there first saw and when it breaks they can fix it. I like this forum unlike others I've been on where no one wants to help anyone else.
 
In line with getting the show on the road and the fact my gasket is ok but affixed to the wrong side, tomorrow i am going to use the heat method in my oven and see if i can push it on and finish with pulling with the screws. so i go to find the screws and i can find six spline screws that measure with my harbor freight tool at around 5mx23 (those were in a unmarked pack) and the ipl shows 5mx20. I don't see anything close to that used in the build kit screws other than the two marked 5x20 indicating the pull starter and they measure 5x20 with my tool. the cylinder head screws are black but m6x25. so they must use 23?
 
Didn't measure them. There were 6 in the package, the only other package with six identical screws are 4mm.

Here is an update after a couple of hours to waste this morning.
 

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