My log splitter build

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With both valves in center position, all oil is going thru the first valve, out the PB, thru pressure port of second valve, out the return port of your second valve to the filter then to tank, either valve will work. When ever the first valve, ( autocycle valve) is shifted, all oil is diverted to the work ports to make the cyl move, and out the return ports of valve back to filter.Since both levers on the ACV are fully shifted, No oil will go to the second valve. Any bleed over of oil to the second valve would be minimal. The only time you will be able to use the second set of valves is when the ACV is in center position. If this is how you want the hyd to work, then your plumbing is correct. I suspect the second valve is your log lift and for some other function not yet determined since the ports are plugged. As plumbed, your log lift will not work as long as the splitting cyl is moving. This might be what you are wanting, but not the way I would do it. It is my personal choice, not a requirement to do it another way. Since a log lift would only take a moment to lift or lower, I think I would want to be able to do so while the splitter is going in and out, not waiting on the splitter to complete its cycle before moving. If you run the fluid thru the valve on the right side first, and then to the autocycle valve, you would be able to activate the autocycle valve and start the splitting and then while the splitter is in cycle, still be able to raise and lower your log lift. The splitting cycle would only be interrupted for the time it takes to make whatever adjustment needed for the log lift and as soon as you released the loglift the spitting cycle would finish. Since you already have your machine plumbed, I would go ahead and give it a try and see if it works to suit you, you can always change it later if you find you want to be able to use the log lift while splitting, its just a matter of moving two hoses, assuming the valve on the right does have PB.
 
I thought I might add encase you do decide to plumb as I suggested. The PB port of your Auotcycle valve should have a adapter to make the valve PB capable. It wont be a matter of simply capping that pb port, the adapter will have to be removed. Failure to remove adapter and just capping the PB port will convert the valve to a closed center valve and block oil flow back to tank. The adapter separates the Pressure out port from the return to tank port. Once the adapter is removed, you can use either the pb or the return port for return oil. Since both valves seem to be from the same manufacturer, and the valve on the right currently has the PB port plugged, the valve probably doesnt have the PB adapter installed, I suspect the PB adapter once removed from the valve on the left can be reused in the pb port of the valve on the right. Very important that you dont just cap the PB port of the valve on the left without removing the PB adapter, failure to do so will block high pressure oil and can either blow a hose, burst the valve or bust the pump. At the least it will cause all oil to dump over relief causing oil to over heat

I also need to ask, have you already tried the current setup and did it work or are you having problems being the reason you are scratching your head and asking about to many return lines. In order for your current setup to work the ACV would have to have the PB adapter installed, otherwise no pressure will build and all oil is just returning back to tank.
 
Yeah I was splitting wood with it last night!

I was just concerned I over complicated things or didn't read over the hydraulic diagram I got with the valves very well.

Both valves have PB ports and I only have on adapter so I'd pull it out any how if I switch it around like you said.
 
It splits, I will shoot a video and toss it up on YouTube when I get everything buttoned up. Shot a small clip on my phone but said it was too big to load.
 

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How do I edit my last post? Just need count changed to cut because I'm an idiot
 
Thanks muddstopper but with the video, there is no edit for me to click on. I'll get it figured out.
 
Well finally gave my splitter the shake down. Split for about an hour, found some leaks and a loose hydraulic line.

Besides that was splitting mostly ash and some box elder for fun. It did good except for some knotty nasty pieces. Once I have some money to throw at it I'll buy a bigger cylinder and shorten the stroke or keep it long.
 
I would consider welding nuts or even little nipples on the pusher for traction to limit the slippage. when splitting uneven cut crotches and gnarly stuff the pieces will want to kick out or ride up. also maybe add some extensions to it so it pushes past the wedge by half inch or so. that really helps on the stringy stuff that requires full stroke. just friendly advice
 
When you let go it stops.

My processor doesn't either, but the splitter has a "v" trough so it's pretty rare to have a hand near the wood.
 
According to wiki, A dead man's switch (for other names, see alternative names) is a switch that is automatically operated if the human operator becomes incapacitated, such as through death, loss of consciousness, or being bodily removed from control

ball valves are considered deadmans, if they have a spring return handles. A spring return to center control valve would be considered a deadman if the control handle spring returns to center position if you take your hand off the valve. Locomotives use a deadman valve that will stop the train in the event the engineer becomes incapacitated and can no longer control the train. There is also another switch that has to be manually operated at regular intervals to prevent someone from rigging the deadman and bypassing the failsafe. I cant tell what kind of control valve is being used on this splitter. A normal splitter valve is normally spring centered but there are many variations. One variation very common on production splitters would be a spring centered control valve with detent, where if the lever is placed in detent in one direction, the valve will continue to function until a set pressure is met. Another would be a autocycle valve, (which is what I suspect is on this splitter)
where two levers are activated with detent in both directions. When pressure is made in one direction, the valve automatically shifts spools and directs oil flow in a different direction until pressure is made in that direction and spool is then shifted to center.
 
I would consider welding nuts or even little nipples on the pusher for traction to limit the slippage. when splitting uneven cut crotches and gnarly stuff the pieces will want to kick out or ride up. also maybe add some extensions to it so it pushes past the wedge by half inch or so. that really helps on the stringy stuff that requires full stroke. just friendly advice

I add some metal to the push plate for added traction and when I slide the 4 way wedge on it meets the push plate a lot tighter.

As far as a dead man I got nothing. It's an auto cycle valve so I have found it best to keep one hand on the valve when running it unless you are getting another piece of wood or you may loose some fingers. If you are working with another person they just keep the log lift loaded and the operator never leaves.
 
Well its been quite some time since I posted anything but at around the 30 hr of operation of my splitter I had a major failure on my cylinder. Picture is worth it and ill leave it at that until I post a picture. So I need some help deciding how much money I want to toss at a new 5" x 24" cylinder. I have found a few but have 1/2' ports but when I look at the Prince cylinders 3/4 npt or -10 I believe. So are the small ports ever going to be an issue? I'm thinking yes but is it worth spending $200 plus more dollars?
 
So here is the reason I need a new cylinder!!
 

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