Seeking advice regarding thinning chainsaw

[northmanlogging]

FYI, that would be a ported and tuned up 562, also notably not a 50cc saw.

Granted I've ran a 32" on a 60cc saw, its not ideal but it works.

 

[JimMorrison]

Dear everyone that suggests a 50cc saw,

Go out and fall timber for an entire day, don't cut any firewood, just limb and buck to 30-36' lengths with yer hedge trimmer.

Then if you don't already own one, the very next day, go rent a 64-80cc saw with a bar that will cut this timber.

At the end of the day, tally up your progress.

The extra 5-10 pounds of saw is going to be worth it, and after just a few days you won't really notice the weight difference.


I said it before, I'll say it again, this isn't fire wood or stump carving, falling timber means you need to have horse power on your team, and 50cc saws are not meant to fall timber regularly, they will do it, but you will work 3 times as hard for the same amount of production.

I am not a professional logger, most of us are not, but I have used a saw enough to know this guys' post is right on the money. OEM specs and actual weights tell the story. There is less then a 3 lb. difference in most 50 - 70 cc saws. With a slightly bigger fuel tank, oil tank and bigger bar the difference gets bigger, but can be kept below 5 lbs. Less work while using the saw will more then offset carrying the extra 4-5 lbs.

 

[bryanr2]

FYI, that would be a ported and tuned up 562, also notably not a 50cc saw.

Granted I've ran a 32" on a 60cc saw, its not ideal but it works.

yeah I know it's ported. I like 90cc for 32'' bars myself.

 

[madhatte]

I've got a Masterminded 562 in my home arsenal for when I'm not on Uncle Sam's clock. It gets plenty of use. It happily pulls 28" through whatever you care to throw at it. It easily has the snort to pull more, but I'm not confident that the oiler could keep up.

 

[bnmc98]

Well I'm 42 and fall with a 90cc saw all day and am no longer in stellar shape. The more you do it the more in shape you get. That being said, and maybe it was said and i missed it.
How are you getting paid? by hr, bdf, ton?
If its an up to me situation to make the dough, i would definitely use a faster saw within reason. up to 20" dbh, I would not go less than a 70cc saw with a shorter bar in the 24" category. I wouldn't want longer unless I was limbing, you start running your tip into stuff on the other side. I'd pick a half wrap handle if it were me, i like it better on the small stuff, i find im faster back barring the little stuff.
If you are paid by the hr.... I would still use a larger saw so that you can do the best job for your employer you can, that is what is ethical, and expected.
When I fall lodge-pole pine avg diameter 8-14" I wouldn't even consider a smaller saw that that. Those are money makers, that's why the pros use them.
To boot I would not just have one saw, you need two unless your boss has one you can use if yours, not only breaks down, but may even fall out of the pickup, get run over by equipment, etc...
A shops turn around time in my experience is not usually one day. You don't want to be broke down on another persons job that they have to wait for you. That's when they start looking for other people.
Thats all from a contract production fallers perspective.
good luck.

Oh and for fir, get a decent set of dogs, not that single dog crap

 

[Clark10]

Thanks guys. I don't think I was as clear as I meant to be and when this post jumped forums it kind of took on a life of it's own.

This is not my full time occupation but a minimal side line. I've only taken on this one job. The rest of the time I cut my own wood and help remove the occasional downed tree.

With this job 70 percent of the trees are under 12". Tight and crowded stand. Paid by the hour and all the wood is mine unless they would like a few cords for burning. Mostly too small to make selling profitable other wise. This is over 60 acres but maybe 10 total to be thinned. I'm putting in about 17 hours a month as my main work takes pressident. I have been asked to keep it around 40 hours a month total. Owners are friends and have made it clear that they are glad to have me do the work and are seriously in no rush. Open time frame in years not weeks.

I've decided on the 562XP with 24" bar and regular handle. I need to work in very tight places at times and they would like me to get the small stumps right down to ground almost level if possible. I have the 55 as a backup and access to a 026 if needed. I may pick up a 28inch or 32 inch bar to see how it works on the saw too.

Thanks for all your great advice. Maybe I'll be able to learn more, make some profit, get another logging job and I'll then easily justify a 70-90cc saw.

Thanks!

Sent from my SM-G360V using Tapatalk

 

[JimMorrison]

You have provided 4 pages of entertainment for many people. Good on that and good luck with the ongoing enterprise.

 

[northmanlogging]

Thanks guys. I don't think I was as clear as I meant to be and when this post jumped forums it kind of took on a life of it's own.

This is not my full time occupation but a minimal side line. I've only taken on this one job. The rest of the time I cut my own wood and help remove the occasional downed tree.

With this job 70 percent of the trees are under 12". Tight and crowded stand. Paid by the hour and all the wood is mine unless they would like a few cords for burning. Mostly too small to make selling profitable other wise. This is over 60 acres but maybe 10 total to be thinned. I'm putting in about 17 hours a month as my main work takes pressident. I have been asked to keep it around 40 hours a month total. Owners are friends and have made it clear that they are glad to have me do the work and are seriously in no rush. Open time frame in years not weeks.

I've decided on the 562XP with 24" bar and regular handle. I need to work in very tight places at times and they would like me to get the small stumps right down to ground almost level if possible. I have the 55 as a backup and access to a 026 if needed. I may pick up a 28inch or 32 inch bar to see how it works on the saw too.

Thanks for all your great advice. Maybe I'll be able to learn more, make some profit, get another logging job and I'll then easily justify a 70-90cc saw.

Thanks!

Sent from my SM-G360V using Tapatalk

So 8-9? years ago, a friend of a friend wanted us to take care of some damaged trees left over from when he had it logged, they did a horrible job.

The next year he asked us to thin about 3 acres... then we "thinned" the rest of 21 acres, and clear cut the neighbors, been kind of a downward spiral since then.

Knowing this guy I'll probably be in there again this spring, or summer, my buddy, went ahead and cleared the original patch we had cleaned up the first time, its now a vacant field...

What I'm getting at... logging has a mind of its own, it gets in yer blood and fills yer brain with thoughts of heavy equipment and falling big timber, so be careful and know what you are after.

 

[woodfarmer]

Here's where I'm working, the hang up and the logs, if I'll call them that.

 

[JimMorrison]

Looks like you have a good part time job.

 

[bryanr2]

Thanks guys. I don't think I was as clear as I meant to be and when this post jumped forums it kind of took on a life of it's own.

This is not my full time occupation but a minimal side line. I've only taken on this one job. The rest of the time I cut my own wood and help remove the occasional downed tree.

With this job 70 percent of the trees are under 12". Tight and crowded stand. Paid by the hour and all the wood is mine unless they would like a few cords for burning. Mostly too small to make selling profitable other wise. This is over 60 acres but maybe 10 total to be thinned. I'm putting in about 17 hours a month as my main work takes pressident. I have been asked to keep it around 40 hours a month total. Owners are friends and have made it clear that they are glad to have me do the work and are seriously in no rush. Open time frame in years not weeks.

I've decided on the 562XP with 24" bar and regular handle. I need to work in very tight places at times and they would like me to get the small stumps right down to ground almost level if possible. I have the 55 as a backup and access to a 026 if needed. I may pick up a 28inch or 32 inch bar to see how it works on the saw too.

Thanks for all your great advice. Maybe I'll be able to learn more, make some profit, get another logging job and I'll then easily justify a 70-90cc saw.

Thanks!

Sent from my SM-G360V using Tapatalk

Im jealous of the firewood honey hole you've stumbled upon. You've picked a great model saw that most will agree is a factory hotrod. Happy cutting. I don't know what you were quoted for the saw, but member Awol can put you in a ported Husqvarna 562 or Jonsered 2260 for $850. Might be something to consider.

 

[Cedarkerf]

For bucking that little stuff I always liked a 28 inch bar on my 044. Too much work bending over on that stuff. Might just be a regional thing but that's just standard out here. I cut everything from 6" vine maple to 56" doug fir with that combo.

 

[Clark10]

Happy Holidays to you all!

Thanks for all your feedback and suggestions as they are much appreciated.

The saw has been purchased. I am the happy owner of a new Husqvarna 562 XP with a 24" bar and no modifications. I just had it out on the site for about 6 hours today and it works very well. The saw was like wielding a "light saber". I have to admit that the extra power, sleekness/balance, and relative light weight provide for a safer operator experience in my opinion. I can get in and out of the higher danger zone more swiftly and with less hang ups or delays. As I mentioned in a previous post the area I'm working in has trees that are limb locked and I'm not able to make a clearing to fall into. The new saw allows me to make the needed 4' high horizontal cuts to bring the trunk down through the canopy almost vertically the whole way. These are dangerous conditions but most of the stems are small (3"-6" diameter). As I get to the larger diameter I have some openings to fell the remainder in a safer manner. I could breath a lot easier too as the "Autotune" really kept the ratios right and there was a very clean burn of fuel. Over all very happy.

I went from a 20" bar to a 24" bar and I can really feel the difference! Just a few inches is really saving my back when limbing and bucking. I have really taken all your advice to heart and I'm going to get a longer bar. When I measured it out I would be working with the power head closer to my body and the bar would be further away from my feet and legs when working on the ground. These trees have small limbs and so the bar has to reach down to almost the same extent as a person walking a larger trunk. Maybe four inches less as I'm on the ground instead of on the log and they are small diameter. It isn't like deciduous trees where the crown is wide and keeps the trunk high off the ground after it has fallen. I'm looking for a 28" bar as the manufacturer suggests nothing longer.

I will see how this saw works over time but I'm already considering a larger saw with a 32" bar if I keep getting work like this.

Thanks for all the help.

 

[Ryan'smilling]

Those longer bars add weight fast. If it's at all possible, get a lightweight bar. 562xp+ 28" lightweight bar=excellent combo for the Pacific Northwest.

 

[madhatte]

562xp+ 28" lightweight bar=excellent combo for the Pacific Northwest.

Or anywhere else, really!

(Folks who cut Oz hardwoods excepted)

 

[northmanlogging]

a 32" light weight bar on a 461, is a true light saber, I've even considered writing saber after the word light on my Stihl bars

 

[madhatte]

I've even considered writing saber after the word light on my Stihl bars

I triple dog dare ya!

 

[northmanlogging]

Wow calm down now... no reason to get out of hand...

 

[madhatte]

Heh heh. I just wanna see it done!

 

[northmanlogging]

I tried but it was dark and muh sharpie wasn't cooperating...