What model of Sthil 661 ?

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CoolCat44

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Looking for advises!

I do a lot of work with an alaska chainsaw mill
(wood cookies, live slab / furniture related project... but not my full time job)

I was using a 461MS, great saw, but a bit light on cc (36" bar with Oregon ripping chain)

I'm looking for a 90cc or plus, thinking of the latest 661,

- question: my dealer is pressing me to go for the Artic version, does it worth it???
- a 42 " bar solid or light model??
- 661 MS is it an "arborist approved choice!?!"


Many thanks, always a pleasure reading you guy's!
Phil
 
I'm showing less than $100 between standard and arctic version...But unless your saw lives most of its life outdoors and you like to work in winter ,paying for a heating element that will probably break down withing 6 months is a bit much.
Solid bar
arborist approved choice , thats like saying my truck is "best in its class," what class and who is saying this???? All BS to me...
Personally I'm a Husky guy , but Stihl makes great saws and the specs on that particular one look good....

G Vavra
 
661 keeps the same bar setup you already have. Otherwise in Stihl you can get a used 660 or new China hutzl style build saw kit if you want for 2-300.
A 3002 mount saw 084/088/880 or older full mag case 100cc plus.
New maybe switch to husky dare i suggest it . As same bar mount from 60cc ish/562xp up to the 395/3120.
I have 660 milled with # 36" bar went well enough with chain set bobL Progressive raker style

084 not yet milled, should breeze a 33" cut in a 36"mill though

Also 2 kit saws to build with caber rings and play with .
 
I'm showing less than $100 between standard and arctic version...But unless your saw lives most of its life outdoors and you like to work in winter ,paying for a heating element that will probably break down withing 6 months is a bit much.
Solid bar
arborist approved choice , thats like saying my truck is "best in its class," what class and who is saying this???? All BS to me...
Personally I'm a Husky guy , but Stihl makes great saws and the specs on that particular one look good....

G Vavra

Thank for your advise, my Stihl rep is talking very higly of the Artic feature (advanced hitech elcetronic kicking in only when needed, etc...) On a personal note i rather go low tech (for me it's a garanty of less problem...)
 
661 keeps the same bar setup you already have. Otherwise in Stihl you can get a used 660 or new China hutzl style build saw kit if you want for 2-300.
A 3002 mount saw 084/088/880 or older full mag case 100cc plus.
New maybe switch to husky dare i suggest it . As same bar mount from 60cc ish/562xp up to the 395/3120.
I have 660 milled with # 36" bar went well enough with chain set bobL Progressive raker style

084 not yet milled, should breeze a 33" cut in a 36"mill though

Also 2 kit saws to build with caber rings and play with .
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Thanks for your respond,

I was offered a used 090 (not sure about that one !)

you can see this add - it's still available:
https://www.kijiji.ca/v-outdoor-too...aw/1260544132?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true

But 660 are so rare in my area, same for big husky... I'm not racist about Husky, but the 3 Stihl dearler in my region are great guy/honest / skilled people...

I will certaily look into your suggestion - progrssive raker style, I thought ripping chain where more appropriate?
 
That 090 looks mint.
AV mark II
Has a decent sized bar grab a 25-30" for bucking (haha) and go to left coast supplies or similar if you ever need a longer bar up to 84"

Have you seen it personally yet?
There is a China parts 070 which with a few parts can be made to look like a 090 so you need a keen eye of which there are definitely a few other Aussies I know of on this and other forums who can tell you.
If a genuine saw and your not interested would you collect and ship it to me
 
I just made my regular chain slowly into ripping chain but for a small amount extra cost on the roll factory 10° would be quicker

I can't say that I have noticed much of a difference between filing at 10* vs 30*. The most important is having the chain sharp, rakers set correctly and the filing angle consistent.
 
I can't say that I have noticed much of a difference between filing at 10* vs 30*. The most important is having the chain sharp, rakers set correctly and the filing angle consistent.
Fair point as small bit I did before I build my frame was at 30 ° heading to 10°.
 
Old school I would look for a 066 magnum. If it's been rebuilt makes sure it was with OEM parts. If not you might get lucky but OEM seems to get better HP. If I was buying new for a mill, I would get a Husky 395xp. If you are sold on Sthil get the pro model. I think that is the o let one without all the electronic crap. I think...

I am getting a 066 magnum for my mill. It going to live with a 36" bar for 90% of it time and will probably get a 48" bar set up with 3-4 ripping chains. I have a few big bent trees that I want to slab when I cut them.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Thanks for your respond,

I was offered a used 090 (not sure about that one !)

you can see this add - it's still available:
https://www.kijiji.ca/v-outdoor-too...aw/1260544132?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true

But 660 are so rare in my area, same for big husky... I'm not racist about Husky, but the 3 Stihl dearler in my region are great guy/honest / skilled people...

I will certaily look into your suggestion - progrssive raker style, I thought ripping chain where more appropriate?

Progressive raker is part of sharpening chain for what is being cut. Rather than using a depth gauge that is fixed there is better ways/means of setting the rakers relation to cutters. BobL in the top "Milling 101" section is a master of teaching what his experimentation has taught him.
I have a 661 c that is just a joy to me. The 460 in my avatar ran the 60" bar with skip chisel chain quite well. The 460 is MM'd the 661 came to me cylinder ported with an emptied muffler. Opening up the exhaust port and drilling1/8" holes in cover has her breathing much easier and making a bigger difference from the 460.
Opening up the muffler on your 70cc saw will make a difference as it did on mine. If you can arrange for a "pro" to port & build the saw you have as a work saw you may like it more than the expense of the 90cc range saw IMHO. The new ones are fun but not as much dif as desired without a bit o help breathing and maybe a timing advance:chainsaw: There are a few respected builders at this site if you search a bit.
The 090 is a heavy torque saw that runs at a lower speed . That is all I know about them. At least until one shows up around here at an auction;)
Stay safe & enjoy
 

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