Retro fit a decomp?

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teacherman

Aging out of the insanity...
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Well, I aggravated my bruised sternum last week, which derailed my recovery and return to work, something which definitely gets my attention. What was I doing? Starting an 064. The elasto handle needs replaced, but I'd really like to figure out if this saw (and the 056 mag 2) can be retrofitted with a decomp valve. I have two good specimens of each model, and I really like using them. I know the cylinders don't have a boss milled in for this purpose, and I wonder if it's feasible to actually do this, or if it would weaken the cylinder. I don't mind the 044 not having one, but above 80 cc it seems a good idea.

Thoughts?
 
I think you can use a spark plug tap and be done. I have installed a husky type decomp valve before with out any problems. I am not positive what the threads are like on the auto husky decomp valve. As to if the cylinder would be compromised. Yes the cylinder would not be as strong. I would guess that your saw would last longer than you could. Hopefully you will be cutting for 40 more years, but your saw if taken care of could last 50 more years. I have a 056 that I bought new is still running strong. Thanks
 
I think you can use a spark plug tap and be done. I have installed a husky type decomp valve before with out any problems. I am not positive what the threads are like on the auto husky decomp valve. As to if the cylinder would be compromised. Yes the cylinder would not be as strong. I would guess that your saw would last longer than you could. Hopefully you will be cutting for 40 more years, but your saw if taken care of could last 50 more years. I have a 056 that I bought new is still running strong. Thanks

Thanks, Ted. I retired from teaching and started a tree service, but I am a late 1950s model, so 40 years would be a stretch.... I appreciate the optimism, though.

Not sure why they now put these on 50 cc saws, but ease of starting is definitely a plus, and it's an individual thing, kind of like the power assist accessory for lifting the Shop smith slide pole assembly.
 
I think you can use a spark plug tap and be done. I have installed a husky type decomp valve before with out any problems. I am not positive what the threads are like on the auto husky decomp valve. As to if the cylinder would be compromised. Yes the cylinder would not be as strong. I would guess that your saw would last longer than you could. Hopefully you will be cutting for 40 more years, but your saw if taken care of could last 50 more years. I have a 056 that I bought new is still running strong. Thanks
One question: Is a husky decomp better made, or is it the size of it that fits better for a retrofit?
 
The 044, 064, and 056 m2 are my favorite big saws, hands down. A fresh 44 might benefit from a decomp as well, I suppose. I was bummed, because I was well on the way to recovering, and this really set me back.
 
Thanks, Ted. I retired from teaching and started a tree service, but I am a late 1950s model, so 40 years would be a stretch.... I appreciate the optimism, though.

Not sure why they now put these on 50 cc saws, but ease of starting is definitely a plus, and it's an individual thing, kind of like the power assist accessory for lifting the Shop smith slide pole assembly.
I don’t know Ol Buddy. The Climbing championship in the UK had an 83 year old competitor.
And get the “D” handle for your says. From the rescue saws.
Like $5 from Stihl and $11 from aftermarket.
Take care of yourself.
Sorry we lost the pictures you posted of your buddy the arborist that passed a few years ago. They were EPIC.....
Wished I’d saved them.
 
I don’t know Ol Buddy. The Climbing championship in the UK had an 83 year old competitor.
And get the “D” handle for your says. From the rescue saws.
Like $5 from Stihl and $11 from aftermarket.
Take care of yourself.
Sorry we lost the pictures you posted of your buddy the arborist that passed a few years ago. They were EPIC.....
Wished I’d saved them.
I have them on disk. I plan to someday restore the thread, which is why I keep the link to it in my sig line.
 
Most often guys talk about "timing advance" in a coil. In reality it's timing retard at very low RPMs designed to make the saw easier to start. Once started, they quickly return to normal timing.
The same principle applies with a centrifugal advance on a car distributor, right?

I so like the 064 that I have a part saw coming any day. Paid a bit (lot) more than I'd have liked, but I want to put its intact tank/handle and HD AF setup on a hardly used one I got last year that has the homeowner AF on it and a repaired handle.Maybe I can experiment with the jug from that one and figure out a decomp configuration.

Th 56 has a slanted cylinder, which might not lend itself as readily to a decomp. Love the old school grunt
 
Handle on my 655BP I got from Lowes several years back is cushioned along the finger area.
7c6e32df85ea05b670bd4e103f8a220b.jpg

Helps a lot!

And a standard valve from Stihl or Husqvarna can be tailored to one’s desire. Simply drill the bleed port larger. I ended up at 1/16” on the MS880 I rebuilt.
ae586ea8b4dfe244a45602b93076622e.jpg

So, even a skinny little geezer can pull start an 880. [emoji106]

The valves are alike except for the knob color from what I can see.
 
Teacherman......if you need a spotface, drill and tap let me know.
Easy on a mill.
Thanks for the offer! I wonder if a Shop Smith horizontal drill press with a vise would serve for this purpose. Seems it might.

The parts 064 came today. It fires but doesn't run. However, it has the HD AF setup, and a nice tank, which will be transferred over to one with a repaired tank and the old homeowner type AF. The whole housing and possibly the tank is different, so glad I'm switching out the tank. That one I think I got for under four bills, and the seller said it was only used as a firewood saw, so I should have a sweet one there. Definitely will put elasto on it, if not try to mill in a decomp. I need to look at the 660 for placement of it, because the top center is awfully =close to the spark plug inlet.
 
066, 660, and 650 cylinders are not a bolt-up situation on an 064 case. The mounting holes need slotted inward diagonally and a tiny amount of shaving of the outside of the cylinder base is necessary.

You'd also need to drill a hole in the 064 top cover for the valve to stick out of (easy enough).
Jacob is right.
As a machinist a little work with a file falls under “it will work”
 
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