ahhh ok, never paid much mind to remy starters, cause the few ive had worked ok.
Remington Chainsaws(including Mall chainsaws)
- Thread starter wampum
- Start date
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Sorry I didn't get any pics today,I got so busy working on my Macs that I forgot to take the pics.The good news is that the two parts saws that I bought are going to be good runners & the runner I thought I had got parted out.Lol If I think about it tomorrow I'll get those pics on here.
Ed
Ed
Nice saw, one of those has been on my to get list.
Pretty faded is fine, being a Remington, I would be excited that it actually has paint on it.
SawTuner
ArboristSite Operative
Haha, ya it has enough to tell what it is at least.
Thanks
Thanks
I bought a Remy for the first time. I was given a box of more recent remy saw in parts. But I have been told that $25 auction price was good on this SL5G
It is the first gear down saw I had the opportunity to buy so I did. So much more ahead of this saw.
It is the first gear down saw I had the opportunity to buy so I did. So much more ahead of this saw.
SawTuner
ArboristSite Operative
Wow nice buy that's one you dont see too often!
happysaws
Addicted to ArboristSite
That has a very interesting muffler...
There are four threaded holes that show a cover or extension wood go there. Rumors said it has sat in the barn for a couple decades. If that is the only missing part it still needs a lot of TLC. The chain&bar appear to be one unit for example, no telling before disassembling the condition of the gears. Only gear reduction saw I have had the opportunity to bid on so still thrilled about the success.
ShipWreckDiver
ArboristSite Lurker
Hey Everyone. Need a bit of help. Anyone have a good understanding of the number coding on the Remington Roller Nose bars or can point me to documents for them? I'm trying to figure out which saws a certain bar might fit but would also like to have a reference for the future with other bars I might encounter.
The bar is 28" overall length and the only numbers on it are 48709 ------------- DF 2.
It's Stamped Remington Arms Company inc, and also stamped "Use 63 inch chain"
I was hoping this would fit my PL5 but it's not even close. I'm guessing it is in the smaller end of a range of bars for a pretty large cc saw. Mostly because the adjustment holes are very far forward compared to a smaller bar that does fit the PL5.
The bar is 28" overall length and the only numbers on it are 48709 ------------- DF 2.
It's Stamped Remington Arms Company inc, and also stamped "Use 63 inch chain"
I was hoping this would fit my PL5 but it's not even close. I'm guessing it is in the smaller end of a range of bars for a pretty large cc saw. Mostly because the adjustment holes are very far forward compared to a smaller bar that does fit the PL5.
happysaws
Addicted to ArboristSite
That's considered a 24" bar. It should fit the Super series (Super 754 and the like), larger Bantam saws, PL6, PL7, SL7 and Logmaster saws.
That bar should have a 9mm mount, so it could be made to fit your PL5 if you drill some adjustment and oil holes into it.
You may want to measure the gauge of the bar, most of the big Remington bars were .058" gauge, which can make finding chain more difficult.
BTW, that PL5 will likely be bar heavy with a big 24" Remington bar on it...
Neat_Hedgehog
ArboristSite Lurker
As much as I've posted my bigger machines, the humble trimmers always have their place in my collection, too.
So here's my little Mighty Mite... uhh... cobble job between a 400, 500, and 600. It was free and came with a parts saw. The oil tank duckbill had failed and filled the crankcase with bar oil and the coil was dead. I couldn't find a blue prestolite coil to replace the dead one, or a set of points, so I put a standard points coil on it with an Oregon ignition module to "eliminate" the points it never had.
Between the coil, new fuel lines, module, bar, chain, and new duckbill for the oil tank, yeah, probably spent more than it's worth. But it runs pretty stupidly great and it's perfect for brush and limbing tree tops.
And Chuck (my furry little cutting assistant) seems to approve of it, so I'm happy with it.
So here's my little Mighty Mite... uhh... cobble job between a 400, 500, and 600. It was free and came with a parts saw. The oil tank duckbill had failed and filled the crankcase with bar oil and the coil was dead. I couldn't find a blue prestolite coil to replace the dead one, or a set of points, so I put a standard points coil on it with an Oregon ignition module to "eliminate" the points it never had.
Between the coil, new fuel lines, module, bar, chain, and new duckbill for the oil tank, yeah, probably spent more than it's worth. But it runs pretty stupidly great and it's perfect for brush and limbing tree tops.
And Chuck (my furry little cutting assistant) seems to approve of it, so I'm happy with it.
I had one of them (Wards) and it indeed was a good runner.
The oil tank is above the bar mount and once started and run it will empty its contents. And, the shut off consisted of the throttle rod squeezing the oil line shut.
The oil tank is above the bar mount and once started and run it will empty its contents. And, the shut off consisted of the throttle rod squeezing the oil line shut.
Neat_Hedgehog
ArboristSite Lurker
Ha, yeah, I went out one day to find it had dumped all the remaining oil out. I think the replacement oil line I used is too stiff to be shut off consistently.
I'd fiddle with it more, or maybe put in a shut off valve, but for now the oil tank is so small I don't mind just pouring it back into the oil bucket before I put it away, though.
Ponchonutty
ArboristSite Lurker
I need a little advise here. I have seen some discussions but no real answers though. I have a 1973 Mighty Mite with the built-in oil and gas tanks. It runs great but need to replace the bar and chain and also fix the smoking. I assume it's from it sucking the bar oil through the motor. I've dissembled it can't figure out what keep it from sucking oil back into the crankcase. All I see is a small screen in the case that goes into the oil reservoir assuming to pressurize the tank. What keeps it from back feeding? Thanks!
Ponchonutty
ArboristSite Lurker
Update so I took the oil line and inspected it. It appears fine. I figured out where the check valve is!!! It's on the end of that line where the filter is. With a vacuum pump I could get it to open. That being said, I assume the check valve is fine. If that's the case, what would cause the excess smoking?
Crankcase check found on some Remingtons.
Plan is to pull the sleeve out and replace the failed duckbill check wihth a Poulan (first choice) or Homelite.
First file off the rolled edge to remove screen. Next, run a 10-24 tap or self tapping screw in the sleeve in order to pull it out.
Replace the duckbill and press the sleeve back in. It may be necessary to bugger up the sleeve a tad in order for it to stay put.
Plan is to pull the sleeve out and replace the failed duckbill check wihth a Poulan (first choice) or Homelite.
First file off the rolled edge to remove screen. Next, run a 10-24 tap or self tapping screw in the sleeve in order to pull it out.
Replace the duckbill and press the sleeve back in. It may be necessary to bugger up the sleeve a tad in order for it to stay put.
Ponchonutty
ArboristSite Lurker
Thanks for the reply. I have that little thing with the screen on it. You are saying that I should have a duck bill valve inside it? The sleeve you speak of is that washer-type thing you have pictured almost centered in the picture?
Ponchonutty
ArboristSite Lurker
The duckbill will work as it’s a Poulan/Husqvarna.
You now be needing a parts saw to replace the plastic.
Or, have a machinist friend make a collar out of brass stock. [emoji848]
Ponchonutty
ArboristSite Lurker
I am unsure how the duckbill will fit along with that plastic piece???
