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View attachment 692089 Here is a few of the saws I have been working on. They all run great except for the Mac 15. The piston and cylinder have pretty bad scratches. Was thinking about buying a kart MC92 motor and put on it.

Nice saws what's in the back left?

You really have gone the whole 9 yards with those man wow
 
Wow those are some awesome looking Macs that's for sure. I'd love to stumble across one of the 82cc models.

Just actively search and you will find 1 post an add up here and other sites. A nice saw heaps of grunt great anti vibe and not bad weight really. Normally much cheaper than a bigger husky or stihl
 
Think I might have posted this 10-10s when I picked it up, but I just swapped on a better bar tonight. Saw is really clean and this new bar makes it really pop. It's a large mount Husky bar. Funny thing is this particular Sandvik bar has 2 different holes for the locating pin. A rearmost one that is elongated. This is handy because I didn't have to flip the adjusting pin like I usually have to. Simply had to grind a groove up to the oil feed hole and it's good to go. I got the bar from a pile of old stock at my local saw shop, but took a pic of the part number in case they are still out there for others. 20181225_222955.jpg 20181225_223044.jpg 20181225_223055.jpg
 
Got my first 10-10 the other day. It has fuel system issues. Rebuilt the carb, but now it needs a fuel line. It has 150psi. No model number by the carb. I think it's a early model but not sure. I got a fuel line and lower handle on order. Any idea as to what year it is?IMG_20190117_153711.jpg IMG_20190117_153613.jpg IMG_20190117_153551.jpg
 
'68 ~ '70 (maybe?) according to that block stamp? Hafta look through IPL's for more definitive clues, but the serial prefix (10 in your case) is at least a date range indicator if one is present. The numbers following the prefix aren't necessarily indicating any date information that I'm aware of. Mr. Heimann or others may drop in with a more detailed explanation.
 
Based on IPL's I have, a 10- serial number would likely have been a 1967 build. Be careful about aftermarket fuel lines, many are poor quality material and will split when installed over the barb on the carburetor (immediately or within a short time). A better option is a good used fuel line, wrap Teflon tape around it if it is a bit loose in the hole in the tank. I have used Tygon and a grommet with success as well if you are not insistent on the OEM look.

Mark
 
Based on IPL's I have, a 10- serial number would likely have been a 1967 build. Be careful about aftermarket fuel lines, many are poor quality material and will split when installed over the barb on the carburetor (immediately or within a short time). A better option is a good used fuel line, wrap Teflon tape around it if it is a bit loose in the hole in the tank. I have used Tygon and a grommet with success as well if you are not insistent on the OEM look.

Mark
Thank you for sharing the info. The fuel line that's on it was broke near the barb. I may look into a grommet and Tygon set up. So far it seems like a great saw, and can see myself wanting more lol. Do you by any chance still have a full wrap available?
 
D43F8D7E-3619-4E8C-8DFE-510435CC123B.jpeg I read somewhere someone was using a 3D printer making the plastic recoil screen for the McCulloch 10-10 chainsaws. I am needing three of these plastic screens if anyone knows where I can find them.
 
Heres a pic of the fuel line setup with the grommet I got from Mark, I just did 1 of 4. Maby someone has input, but i had to drill a 1/2'' hole. I also took off some meat off the nipple on the carb. Took some massaging to get the line from collapsing around the bend as it exited the tank. Next one ill work the bit lower and aim it a little better out of the tank,

bar nuts 8mm x 1.25 not one local saw shop could help me locally,
 

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Heres a pic of the fuel line setup with the grommet I got from Mark, I just did 1 of 4. Maby someone has input, but i had to drill a 1/2'' hole. I also took off some meat off the nipple on the carb. Took some massaging to get the line from collapsing around the bend as it exited the tank. Next one ill work the bit lower and aim it a little better out of the tank,

bar nuts 8mm x 1.25 not one local saw shop could help me locally,
I like that set up for the fuel line. If the line I ordered is no good, I will go that route.
 
138 psi isn't that bad,if it was 120 or under then I'd replace the rings & piston,but only if the piston was scored badly.I've got a 10-10 here that I brought back to life about 6 weeks ago & it had 130-135 psi,but that was on a dry cylinder too.I'll bet my saw sat for at least 15-20 yrs.Whoever had the saw couldn't figure out that the plug wire was shorting out where it ran over the cylinder fins.It wasn't easy to figure out,but I was persistent.
Ed
 
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