Thoughts?

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Pics of the carb as requested
 

Attachments

  • ECD9D3DC-3919-479E-898A-1A7DF8473E5E.jpeg
    ECD9D3DC-3919-479E-898A-1A7DF8473E5E.jpeg
    3 MB · Views: 15
  • 27A67C45-2545-476A-BE58-CD0FC6393BED.jpeg
    27A67C45-2545-476A-BE58-CD0FC6393BED.jpeg
    1.3 MB · Views: 16
  • 60BEFB6F-4105-40B8-9EDC-F45517F1150C.jpeg
    60BEFB6F-4105-40B8-9EDC-F45517F1150C.jpeg
    1.2 MB · Views: 15
  • C21BFD27-20C8-4438-AFEC-4BDA0DD338B5.jpeg
    C21BFD27-20C8-4438-AFEC-4BDA0DD338B5.jpeg
    1.2 MB · Views: 16
You got the 138A, which is an earlier version of the 138B. Some kind of engineering change took place for them to designate it a B, but regardless the kit I listed earlier should fit it. That said Grizz made a good point, the aftermarket is going to be a source of a lot of parts. I'd rebuild it first but if that doesn't work your options will be limited to other used carburetors and then aftermarket reproductions of various quality.
 
If you’re looking for volunteers…

I've got some of it left. I started parting it out, some parts went pretty quick - but I have the crankcase, and all the guts. The main bearings are shot as well as the seals but the crankshaft seems okay and the p&c and connecting rod are probably usable too.
 
That said Grizz made a good point, the aftermarket is going to be a source of a lot of parts.

I’m not saying that dealer parts are always needed, hell id be lying if i said I hadn’t ordered from rockauto many more times than from a dealer. What I was trying to get at is that certain parts are better off being purchased from the manufacture, and in my findings. Items like carburetor rebuild kit’s are one of the items that are better off if they come directly from the manufacture
 
I've got some of it left. I started parting it out, some parts went pretty quick - but I have the crankcase, and all the guts. The main bearings are shot as well as the seals but the crankshaft seems okay and the p&c and connecting rod are probably usable too.

I’m game, message me and we can get it taken careful of.
 
I’m not say dealer parts are always needed, hell id be lying if i said I hadn’t ordered from rockauto many more times than from a dealer. What I was trying to get at is that certain parts are better off being purchased from the manufacture, and in my findings. Items like carburetor rebuild kit’s are one of the items that are better off if they come directly from the manufacture

On an MS 170 I wouldn't blink at trying an aftermarket carb because the stock non-adjustable carb is kind of mediocre at times and just okay at others. But on an old Tilly carb I'd *try* to rebuild it first especially since that kit is readily available. But it's your show here and your money so you do what you think you ought to.
I'd also definitely pressure test the carb itself before anything. 10 psi and it should hold.
 
ok. I’ll pressure test when I get back home in a bit. Honestly my policy when bringing an old vehicle back to life for the first time in a while, is that the carb gets rebuilt or replaced as well as most of not all of the ignition system. Reason being is that in the long run the car will be better off, the final bill will be lower, and my sanity will suffer the least...

No reason not to apply the same path of logic to this scenario Right?

Rebuild kit & fuel line is on order.
 
I got a new oem tillotsen for an 028 a few years back for $50.
I think that Tillotsen did a run of old models back then. I am looking to see if I can scare up that old site.
 
image.jpg I know you think this will hel
Dang Grizz, that's AMAZING. Loved seeing him restore that old Homey.
I lucked out, found one in near mint condition for $10 American, only thing missing was the spark screen ( found one later ) . It runs like a top, I bring it out every so often just to remind myself how we used todo it!
 
Back
Top