How long do stoves last?

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NCPT

Love my saws
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How long will a wood stove last and what to watch for that one is headed south? I have a Fisher style non EPA stove that does great and I dread the day I replace it. Thanks.
 
I see no reason that any 'fisher style' stove, provided we're talking about one built to the same specs (i.e. 1/4 or 5/16 plate steel) that hasn't been outing the elements rusting away for 25 years, should last forever. Or at least beyond your lifetime.

I've got 1 fisher and 1 home-brew fisher knockoff. The home-brew stove is well built, the only thing that I know of that was built severely less than my Fisher are the firebrick retaining channels, and those are somewhat rusted or burnt away. I also have some warping on the back.

On something thin, like a barrel stove, rust will be more of an issue, and the barrel can burn out. But my old man ran our pretty hard for many years, and I see no reason that with reasonable care, one of those wouldn't last a long time (i.e., 25 years) also.

I guess if I were thinking a stove was showing its age, I'd be looking for hot spots, cracks (especially on any cast iron parts), and cracked or split welds on a steel stove.

I'm no expert.
 
I see no reason that any 'fisher style' stove, provided we're talking about one built to the same specs (i.e. 1/4 or 5/16 plate steel) that hasn't been outing the elements rusting away for 25 years, should last forever. Or at least beyond your lifetime.

I've got 1 fisher and 1 home-brew fisher knockoff. The home-brew stove is well built, the only thing that I know of that was built severely less than my Fisher are the firebrick retaining channels, and those are somewhat rusted or burnt away. I also have some warping on the back.

On something thin, like a barrel stove, rust will be more of an issue, and the barrel can burn out. But my old man ran our pretty hard for many years, and I see no reason that with reasonable care, one of those wouldn't last a long time (i.e., 25 years) also.

I guess if I were thinking a stove was showing its age, I'd be looking for hot spots, cracks (especially on any cast iron parts), and cracked or split welds on a steel stove.

I'm no expert.

Mine is made with 5/16" thick plate steel, some is diamond plate. It has some warping on top, but is very well built. It is about 1/3 to a 1/4 larger than my Papa bear stove in my shop. I have no idea of it's history but this is my 2nd season using it.
 
Somehow, I think that these stoves could get a catalytic converter, (after burner, or double burner) added to their top, with a bypass, for starting, and for burning green wood.
This could add alot of life to them.
This could reduce emissions, and improve effeciency, and such. Why not? I think even adding a small air inlet to provide oxygen to the afterburner could help.
I don't know all this. I just suspect it could work well.
N
 
Been burning wood exclusively for over 50 years in 5 different homes......never replaced a woodstove.
Had a homemade stove start to sag on the top " to much locust " but still used it.

Burned and old wood chief growing up, remember taking 4 men to get it into the house.
 
Just like many things it will boil down to maintenance. Most stoves are pretty simple devices and there’s no reason they shouldn’t last a lifetime. As far as EPA vs non EPA stoves the biggest difference is the addition of a catalyst or secondary burn system both of which are designed to be replaced. My epa stove has 4 stainless tubes that bolt in with two sheets of refractory material laying on top. I thought this might be fragile but going on ten years it’s still going strong. Most EPA stoves would still operate without these pieces in place, just not as efficiently.

The real killer is over firing. Not the occasional trip to 800 degrees, but the constant overfiring that comes from the stove not being sealed. My last stove was a VC Defiant from the late 1970’s. Literally every joint leaked and it was distorted and cracked inside when I first started using it. I sealed it up as best as I could and it worked ok. I’m convinced it would still be around today had the previous owners given it just a little more care.
 
Not really, but I have thought about it. House was built in 1978 and yes, the oil furnace exhaust is the other pipe.

But, I am actually moving my stove to the fireplace flue after I'm done burning this year. It is a 12" and my stove is currently on an 8" flue. Doing it mainly hoping it will improve draft.
 
Maybe a reason to run a stainless liner. Problem solved and it will run cleaner/hotter and clean out all the easier.
Will your stove outlet match up(low enough) to go through the fireplace opening?
 
Somehow, I think that these stoves could get a catalytic converter, (after burner, or double burner) added to their top, with a bypass, for starting, and for burning green wood.
This could add alot of life to them.
This could reduce emissions, and improve effeciency, and such. Why not? I think even adding a small air inlet to provide oxygen to the afterburner could help.
I don't know all this. I just suspect it could work well.
N

I have had my Fisher since 1980. I have no desire to add anything to it that would require maintenance, I burn bone dry wood under roof for 5-6 years and my annual chimney pipe cleaning is cursory at best. I expect to be burning it in the year 2525. If I am still alive
 
Fishers are built like tanks. If you don't over heat them or let them rust, they will last longer than you. Even though my new stove is much more efficient, and has a window (the boss requested one), I still miss my old Fisher.
 
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