Warddc
ArboristSite Lurker
What a coincidence. I just got the email that that saw shipped.
FarmerTec Huztl MS660 Updated Build Kit - Build Thread
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That's where they get you. I have never seen free shipping on the saw kits. If they were to be offer it, they would double the price of the kit.
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In the early days they had free shipping on the kits. Then it was just on the 070. If you are wanting to wait until they do it again, it would be a painful wait most likely. Its more POSSIBLE HL could do that. They buy a bunch of stuff at once.
I am posting the information below late. Just for the record. This is not used in building a kit. this is not used in building a kit. this is not used in building a kit, just to be clear.
I am posting the information below late. Just for the record. This is not used in building a kit. this is not used in building a kit. this is not used in building a kit, just to be clear.
Attachments
The STIHL SERVICE MANUAL maybe not in chinese service maual @Bedford T
X 66 Stang347 X
ArboristSite Operative
This Stihl literature shows use the oil pump as a stop also. The main thing is to have proper clearance when the bearing is installed. Of course if the bearing protrudes out to far and won’t allow the oil pump to seat you’ll have a oil leak at the pump and limited amount at the bar.
Nothing wrong with being wrong ! It is when you cannot admit it! I could see where pressing a bearing in carelessly could damage case. I personally never press a bearing in cold. I have seen to many that left minute shavings which in turn could cause a spun bearing. My question is why wouldn't you want a stop for the ball bearing if you could use one? When I drop a bearing in I do not even think about it going too far or not far enough! I would imagine the engineers that the chinese copied off of are smart enough to have figured this out! I remember BedfordT saying that a few post back when someone questioned a tool I recall!
In case you forgot.
Mark68
ArboristSite Lurker
I'm new to kit saws and I don't agree with his abrasiveness, but his videos did help out building my MS660. He also gave a link for a site that has very good prices on carbs. I must thank him for that.
Slick50
ArboristSite Operative
As Augustus McCrae told P on Lonesome Dove !" You are in over your head P ! OR T !This Stihl literature shows use the oil pump as a stop also. The main thing is to have proper clearance when the bearing is installed. Of course if the bearing protrudes out to far and won’t allow the oil pump to seat you’ll have a oil leak at the pump and limited amount at the bar.
Warddc
ArboristSite Lurker
The saw arrived. took two weeks. Quality looks pretty darned good. checked out the crank, piston and cylinder real well.
I've assembled two of the 660 kit so far one came from hustle the other one came from HL supply it was also a farmer tech both kids had everything I needed except for both of them had defective break Springs
I took the time and washed the casings the bearings cleaned out all the flashing before I started the assembly process
I watched bedford's videos
matts videos
and weimdogs videos
And all the other information from the guys on this site will help you through any issues
I took the time and washed the casings the bearings cleaned out all the flashing before I started the assembly process
I watched bedford's videos
matts videos
and weimdogs videos
And all the other information from the guys on this site will help you through any issues
Warddc
ArboristSite Lurker
yes, i've watched all their videos. good stuff. my brake spring looks good as well as the other areas that people frequently have said were questionable. may still need an OEM choke switch shaft.
Mark68
ArboristSite Lurker
I highly recommend you upgrade the pull starter. I learned that the hard way. The Chinese decomp valve is junk also. I also went with a Walbro carb and my saw startedstarted, ran and idled good with just the Stihl setup settings. (Well, after I fixed the shattered starter LOL). I also went with a Hyway piston/cylinder too.
Slick50
ArboristSite Operative
deereguy
ArboristSite Operative
Anyone have a recommendation on an alternate source for the rubber manifold (block to carb) for the 660.. I Was at Madsen's today picking up parts and checked the price for the manifold which was $49.00. A bid steep for me. Also, I have some used ones laying around which aren't too bad. Although, would like to use new. I recall from, some prior feedback, this post, that their wasn't any good alternatives. Just thought I would check to see if that was still the case. deereguy
Mark68
ArboristSite Lurker
I got a Hyway brand and seems to be real good quality. $6.95 direct from Hyway but shipping takes a couple weeks. Or you can get from HL Supply in just a few days, but cost about $14. Not sure on shipping costs because I ordered some pill starter parts with it.
Warddc
ArboristSite Lurker
Got my case together and cylinder on. My squish with a gasket and 1184 is at 0.026". The only problem I've had so far is that oiler won't spin freely by hand. It gets to a point and stops. I need to take it apart and see where it's hanging up.
X 66 Stang347 X
ArboristSite Operative
If your oiler spins fine with your finger before you put the worm gear on try this.
Loosen the oil pump and put the gear in place then tighten the pump, it helps center it just a little.
If not I would get a worm.
I started replacing the worm anyway just because I had a couple the wire would get loose and spin on the plastic.
Loosen the oil pump and put the gear in place then tighten the pump, it helps center it just a little.
If not I would get a worm.
I started replacing the worm anyway just because I had a couple the wire would get loose and spin on the plastic.
