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@Hoggwood the 1001vl above doesn't seem to oil. the manual pump makes noises like it is trying, but nothing comes out. Any tips? im going to tear it down tonight to see if the lines are still good.
 
@Hoggwood the 1001vl above doesn't seem to oil. the manual pump makes noises like it is trying, but nothing comes out. Any tips? im going to tear it down tonight to see if the lines are still good.
Figured it out. The oil pick up line and then the line from the tank to the pump were gone. Disintegrated entirely. Re-did it all with tygon and flushed with penetrating oil and works good now. Had to pull the whole saw apart to change the lines though. not the best design. Also the fittings are all designed around molded lines, so there was some pre-stretching of the tygon required.
 
Figured it out. The oil pick up line and then the line from the tank to the pump were gone. Disintegrated entirely. Re-did it all with tygon and flushed with penetrating oil and works good now. Had to pull the whole saw apart to change the lines though. not the best design. Also the fittings are all designed around molded lines, so there was some pre-stretching of the tygon required.

I picked up another 1001 awhile ago. Pretty much the only saw I worked on over the winter. Ignition issues had the previous owner put it to rest. I didn't have to replace the lines in the tank. Fellow had before me (with Tygon). All of the Echos I have required new lines. Tygon with a stretched "bell" end. The only other ones that are a pain to replace besides the 1001 are the 302 and 60. 452, 701, 702, 750 are all straight forward. Always use the decomp. I suspect the fan that bolts onto the flywheel is subject to significant force with the ridiculous compression. The latest 1001 came with a 36" 0.404. I switched it out to an 8-pin 3/8 and run a modest 24". I am still waiting to take it out. Still lots of snow and mud, so it will wait.

Yours looks like one of the later 78/79'ish models. Integrated hand guard and operator presence lever. They did have a dinky little tube steel front hand guard. But like all I have seen, lived a short life and snapped off. I can see your stub has been removed from the front handle support. Change out the dust seal around the carb box if needed. They will pull a lot of debris if they are leaking.

Just saying hello to the neighbours.

Echo CS-1001VL (1).JPG Echo CS-1001VL (4).JPG Echo CS-1001VL (6).JPG
 
Slipping out of the 6 cube range, a friend gave me an Echo 750 that looks like new, no spark. Do you know of anyway to rebuild, replace or bypass the factory electronic ignition? I've seen used ones on ebay for $100. I can't see spending that kind of money for a part that was known to go bad?
 
I don't think I ever posted a pic of my Mac 550, 99CC's of yellow. It's the yellow one to the left of the pile. There are 2 Homelite Super 1050's in there too.
FMFniqF.jpg
 
Slipping out of the 6 cube range, a friend gave me an Echo 750 that looks like new, no spark. Do you know of anyway to rebuild, replace or bypass the factory electronic ignition? I've seen used ones on ebay for $100. I can't see spending that kind of money for a part that was known to go bad?

I haven't had issues on my 750's. One has a lot of mileage. I would guess a coil/points/stator plate from a 601/701/702 might mount up. I believe the coils/flywheels are all the same physical size. Would need a chip and likely a flywheel adjustment if the timing/mounting bosses where different. If mine goes out, I would investigate the points coil/chip option.

Just a thought.
 
I haven't had issues on my 750's. One has a lot of mileage. I would guess a coil/points/stator plate from a 601/701/702 might mount up. I believe the coils/flywheels are all the same physical size. Would need a chip and likely a flywheel adjustment if the timing/mounting bosses where different. If mine goes out, I would investigate the points coil/chip option.

Just a thought.
Thanks, I have a mint 650 with a good ignition but a scored P/C. I think it was straight gassed on the first tank. But, it's different from the 750. I'll keep my eyes out for a parts saw.
 
I want a 550 in a bad way!!!!! I love the front tank Macs.
A bit of story on the 550. I was at an auction and bumped into a farmer friend. He told me his cousin was having a yard sale and had two big old Macs that were his dads, to get rid of. I asked where the sale was and he said Old New London RD. Told him I had a friend with a beef cattle operation on that road. He asked her name and I told him. He said his cousins drive was straight across the road from hers. I said that's Roy Winters place. Turns out Roy's son was one of my drinking buddy's in high school. He wanted $35 each for the 550 and the Mac 15 in the picture. The 550 is a runner. I just paid up, wasn't going to try and weasel an old friend down.
 
In the beginning I always wanted a large cc saw when I started burning wood. Lessons learned, I purchased a sears 2.0 thinking I’d be ok in 78. I got a sears 3.75 soon after. They were cutting trees for a new highway. They drop during the day we cut at night. I hauled 20 cords of wood out of there. My sears saws died. They were under warranty I returned them, sold some wood and purchased huskys. One was my first 2100 we continued to cut the highway. I was king of the cutters then.
 
999F or 655bp or 895 depending on bar length needed. Echo 1001 and 1130g are up there too. Overall prolly personally the 999F, it's just hard to say. The most practical would probably be a 2100 Husky.
 
Husky 2100 is very hard to beat in the 100cc class. A Poulan pro655 or 655BP are
also great contenders. The Homelite 650 is another saw that is no slouch. Now in
the geardrive class for 100ccers you got the Homelite 1130G and the Mac 895G
which are great saws.
 
Has anyone ported any of these older saws besides huskys?
The 655 is about as ported as you get with the boost port models. The 1130g & 895, and 795 would not benefit much from porting I'm thinking. The 650 Homie might. Someone did a Solo 603 but said it was limited by transfer covers if memory serves. I had a Poulan 6000 ported, it helped some but was still not really up to what the other 6 cubes I had were. I'd leave the Echo 1001 & Oly-Mac 999 alone as they have wonderful torque as is.
 
Eventually i'm going to port my p62. Don't know a thing about porting a reed saw but ill give it a try.

Best bang for your buck with a P62 is a different set of reeds. I think it was Boyesen that
had made some years ago for the big P series saws. They woke them up quite a bit from
what I was told. Who to get them from I have no idea.
 
Best bang for your buck with a P62 is a different set of reeds. I think it was Boyesen that
had made some years ago for the big P series saws. They woke them up quite a bit from
what I was told. Who to get them from I have no idea.

I’ve already got them. You can just order them straight from the factory. It’s not on their website anymore but if you shoot them an email they'll set you straight.

porting will net the most power. At the least I’ll gain compression. It’s the port timing that weird when working on reed saws.
 
With the early reed engines on the air cooled husky dirtbikes I lowered and widened the intake, raised and widened the exhaust, advanced the timing and away they would rip. Bill
 

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